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They are only $8 each new if you go that route, or you can rebuild them for a little under $4 ea. Easy to rebuild. I've done a few though.
Riffraff has them for $28 each. but probably not going to mess with them.
just blew my wallet. $850 order at riffraff . and my HPOP shipped today.
I do have a question on another thing I will be putting back when I get all the goods on my front door step.
I found this online for $11, as mine sounded a little gravely. dealer was $30 so I thought I would save $20's.
$11 but its slightly smaller. should I be concerened? will the difference be bad or should I not worry?
also I got a new top house and this one was also $11. this one is thicker than the one I am taking off.
so all this will be put back on when I get my HPOP, fuel bowl and so on.
You appear to be holding a 72mm idler pulley! That will work great on the belt tensioner assembly, but the idler pulley that goes in the center between the A/C compressor and the alternator is 90mm. I just bought mine from Advance for $24. I think it will make a difference if you try to run it in the place of the 90mm. Belt tension will not be right, and it may squeal on you.
Of course, if you insall the 72mm you could then go with the 6.0L/140 amp alternator and KEEP the larger pulley on it and make up the difference!?
You appear to be holding a 72mm idler pulley! That will work great on the belt tensioner assembly, but the idler pulley that goes in the center between the A/C compressor and the alternator is 90mm. I just bought mine from Advance for $24. I think it will make a difference if you try to run it in the place of the 90mm. Belt tension will not be right, and it may squeal on you.
Of course, if you insall the 72mm you could then go with the 6.0L/140 amp alternator and KEEP the larger pulley on it and make up the difference!?
I have a new tensioner to add to the mix too. remember I have a van so my Alt is on the passanger side. if I recall some of the trucks have a 4 bolt mounting on the driver side. not sure of the difference.
and I do have to buy a new alternator cause mine has been mounted with only 2 of the 3 bolts for a while and is cracked.
will read up on the wheel differences. that is why I asked.
is there a way to change out the bearing and keep the wheel?
I'm sure there is. It is pressed in, so you should be able to press it out.
You are correct in that the trucks have the alternator mounted on the driver's side. Bracket it held on with the four bolts, and the Power steering is on the same mounting bracket. A/C compressor is on the passenger side for us.
so my trip to OR as my van sits with HPOP sitting at home ready to be installed.
I finally get home after a trip. it was raining when I got home, but woke up to snow and high 20's temps. so needless to say its still sitting till it warms up.
I still have to clean the valley before I put it all back together.
hope it starts like its supposed to when I finally get it all back together.
I also got a New IPR, hoses to add to the mix. and my strange fuel bowl leak fixed. SO game on.
Just got my T500 today, but they're calling for rain all week and I need to do some more cleaning too, I already used two cans of engine degreaser And cant really tell I've done anything. Think I'm gonna try diesel then brake cleaner.
Just got my T500 today, but they're calling for rain all week and I need to do some more cleaning too, I already used two cans of engine degreaser And cant really tell I've done anything. Think I'm gonna try diesel then brake cleaner.
I hear you.
at least you cant reach your valley easier than I.
I am sure I will get to a point that I will accept so I can press on. it will be clean enough. not what I would want, but enough to get all my new things installed and see if the beast will live. hehe.
ok, since my IPR wasn't in the best shape from looks. as I have no clue if it was bad.
so I bit the bullet and bought a new one.
so my new T500 needed me to install the new IPR.
I dont not have a big enough wrench. so if I buy one it would be $20 or so for a wrench I will only use once (or socket). plus I can't torque with a wrench.
so I go by my local dealer where I have spent a few bucks. they installed it for free so one less thing I have to do.
but my question is my Handy dealer book I got from Nicmike said the IPR gets 35 Ib/ft. (dealer confirmed by checking his resources)
but the directions from Riffraff's resource menu say to torque it to 53 in/Ib's.
I honestly dont know the difference but was curious why is there a big difference. in/ft vs ft/Ibs.
From Mueckster: The "good book" is referring the torque on the tin nut. I have it on dvd.
"Torque the IPR to 35 ft/lbs and the solenoid retaining nut to 53 in/lbs." This quote is taken from Ford Senior Master Technician (dieselmann) Charles Ledger's website.
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