So I wouldn't say that I'm "rebuilding" my front axle, it just needs new inner seals. It's a Dana 60 out of a 1992 F350. I have already stripped it down almost completely to nothing. The pinion is still attached and I haven't tried to take it out. I have also removed my carrier but HAVE NOT DISASSEMBLED IT. Do I really need to worry about preload or backlash if I haven't tried to rip the carrier apart? Or could I stick it back in, give it a few love taps with a deadlow hammer, then bolt back in the bearing caps torqued to spec? Thanks.

 

When I swapped my open differential for an Eaton Posi unit, I used the same ring and pinion, and replaced it in the same housing with the same shims. When I checked my backlash and gear pattern, everything was just as it was before I did the swap. I would still recheck the backlash and wear pattern just to make sure they are correct before buttoning everything up, though.

Preload is a different animal. If you pull the pinion, and at this point, you might as well replace the pinion bearing and seals, then you will need to check preload. I don't recall if the Dana 60 uses pinion bearing crush sleeves or shims, but if you have a diff that uses crush sleeves to preload the pinion bearing, I would strongly suggest getting a crush sleeve eliminator kit.

Here is a link to a tech article on Ring and Pinion setup that I found very helpful.
Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading and 4x4 website in the world.

I hope this helps.

 

I also had another question. When I pulled everything out of my differential casing, there was an orange o-ring stuck to the inside of my case. The inner seal fit through the lip where the O-ring is stuck onto and it doesn't look like it goes to anything. I have an image but I can't figure out how to upload it. Sorry I'm new.

 

Upload your image to a hosting site such as photobucket, then use the IMG (aka BB) Code they provide... paste that into a post and the image will show up inline with your text.

 

image_zpsd8034b17.jpg Photo by rhillstrom1 | Photobucket

This is what the orange o-ring looks like. Thinking it was part of the inner seal at first, I tried to remove it with a pair of needle nose pliers. Long story short....it didn't work out lol if anyone could tell me what this goes to or if it matters that I tore it up, that would be very helpful.

 

 

Anyone have any ideas? Do I need to keep the o-ring? Or does it matter if I get rid of it?

 

If your pinion seal is going bad it is probably because there is too much movement meaning the pinion bearings are bad. This would require resetting the backlash if you change the bearings.

 

If you don't change out the ring and pinion, and if you keep the shims as they come off the pinion and keep the differential shims as they were before dissassembly, your backlash "shouldn't" be affected. The key word there is shouldn't. You still need to double check. Be sure to put a bit of drag on the axles when you check the pattern on the ring, or it won't pattern very well. Setting the preload on the pinion is a major pain, unless you use a crush sleeve eliminator.

Been there, done that.

 

If you understand what is going on in a rear end then you will understand that it needs to be checked.If the pinion moves in or out then the contact point of the ring gear is moving one way or the other. It should still be close, but close is what creates gear noise and premature failure.

As far as checking the pattern goes, I watch guys run patterns without the rear end even being in the truck all the time. So drag on axles isn't necessary. The R&P makes contact with each other both on the accel side as well as the coast side.

 

Some info about that o-ring seal would be appreciated

 

Apparently, nobody knows anything about the orange O-Ring.

You say the axle is out of a 1992 F350, might post here and ask:

1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums



Here might be a good place, too:

Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

 

I do understand, Bruno, and I think we are both on the same page, here. I submit that if you just changed out the bearings and reinstalled the same shims, that the backlash and wear pattern shouldn't change. STILL, you would be well advised to check it. Things can get mislabeled and it's not a job you want to repeat. You are absolutely correct about the noise and premature failure if the ring and pinion are not meshing properly.

When I replaced the open diff with the Eaton Posi carrier, I reused the ring and pinion, with new ring bolts, of course. I kept every thing laid out, labeled and after pressing on new bearings, reinstalled everything as it came out, including the shims. The first time I used the old pinion bearing that I opened up slightly with a cartridge sanding roll to double check the backlash and wear pattern. All was spot on. I pulled it apart, removed the mock up bearing and pressed on the new pinion bearing, reassembled everything, and again checked the backlash. No change - it was spot on.

I replaced the axles and painted the ring to check the pattern, but it was really smudgy. I got the wife to clamp the edges of the axle flange with a rag, and tried turning the pinion again to check the pattern. It provided a much cleaner pattern, most likely due to the increased contact pressure.

I don't know what the pro's use when they check, but I found that the few pounds of drag that Yukon (the manufacturer of the rebuild kit) suggested, really helped. It increased the contact pressure and made the patter much more distinct.

My diff is a Ford 8.8. They are similar to some of the Dana's, and to be honest, there is more out there on rebuilding Dana's that Ford 8.8's. It is the internet, and lots of folks have lots of opinions. You just have to do your homework, check out some websites that have good technical guides and forums. It can be a pain in the posterior, and it can be intimidating, but it isn't that hard.