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IDI engine swap

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Old Mar 16, 2013 | 02:53 PM
  #1  
Fordboy350's Avatar
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IDI engine swap

Hi guys, swappin out motors in my F350. Have a 7.3 idi with 600,000kms on it that I'm swappin out for one with 250,000km on it. Almost ready to pull old one, but I haven't done this before, and I have a question. Do I have to drop/slide back my E4od to pull engine? Or am I able to support front of tranny and just wiggle out the engine?
 
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Old Mar 16, 2013 | 03:57 PM
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Use a floor jack under the tranny, and as you take weight of the engine you should be able move it forward off the dowels and converter bolts, the engine goes forward that is.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2013 | 07:49 PM
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Take the fan and or rad out and it should just pull almost strait up and out. Unless its a turbo idi
 
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Old Mar 16, 2013 | 07:54 PM
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Already have all that stuff stripped out. Engine coming out is just a NA, but the one going in is a turbo. Have the turbo stripped off new engine, going to bolt it on after engine is in. Thanks for both of your inputs. Much appreciated.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2013 | 08:07 PM
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new updated viton front trans seal before she goes back together.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2013 | 08:10 PM
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You can get the engine in with the turbo on it. It is about a thousand times easier than putting it on after.

Here is how mine went in. of course I had the core support out so it was about One hundred thousand times easier!!! I swapped my 93 motor with the sidewinder on it and the e40d still bolted in, with the core support in place. It just takes a lot of wiggling!

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Good luck,

Mac.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2013 | 08:34 PM
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If you have the time pull the core support like Mac said. If not, with the fan off and the a/c lines out of the way it BARELEY fits coming out of the engine bay. That was with an auto-equiped truck. I'm not sure it would even work with a manual since the flywheel seems to be thicker than the auto's flexplate. Just thinking out loud here......
 
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Old Mar 16, 2013 | 11:06 PM
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When I put mine in with the factory turbo I put it in with the engine. Not easy. I had the core support off and still had to lift the body to get it in. Banks are set up different than factory. And with the factory down pipe off. It would have been easier to have put the engine in. With the tranny and down pipe conected. I am in the prosess or rebuilding and I find it easiest to pull the core support lift the body as high as you can. Bolt on the tranny , turbo and down pipe and put in as one. But that's just me. I've had this thing out three times and I've done it three different ways. Doing it as one unit was best in my experience.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 12:06 AM
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4x4,

My 94 was a factory turbo, and it went in with a slight tilt back and some effort, but that was with just the turbo, no piping at all. I put that on afterwards.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 12:14 AM
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Trick of the day, To make the tranny go back on the engine simple get the engine close to were it goes and put two 4-6" bolts (with the heads cut off) through the tranny bolt holes one on each side then into the engine then just push the tranny in place, No need to fight trying to get it on them small alignment pins, And it makes getting the converter studs lined up easy as pie, no slipping off the pins or jacks! Because the pins are now 4" long
 
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 12:36 AM
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When I tried just the turbo it hit the firewall before the engine mounts lined up. Had to take the mounts off the block to get it in and then lift the engine to get them back on. Wasn't much fun. I'm going to move the mounts forward to clear new turbo setup so it should be easier to get back in.
 
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