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Cool, thank you guys for all the great advice. Do you guys know much about the Dorman plugs? Steward I notice you had pics if the spark plugs so you must know. My question is can the insert go to deep or does that lip/top part stop it at the right spot. Im afraid of going to deep but I feel like its Sooo close. Any suggestions for my right now fix? Do I get a leverage bar and crank down until my 17mm shallow socket bottoms out?
I'm sure you will get instructions with any insert you buy.
I have the kit and if you look at the vid up top, he screws the Dorman insert till it bottoms out. The plug is out of the 3V motors so I'd go with whatever the torque is recommended in those trucks. The newer plugs supposedly don't have that breaking in half issue but since I've never used them, can't say for sure.
He does say till it bottons out, I don't have a torque wrench ( I know shame on me) but when I was cranking on it the extension felt like it was going to snap or something. Do I back it out a little then crank it in, or all the way then Jimmy it out and clean it off? The plug is in right now (used lots of anti-seize) its just obviously not low enough since the engine light is on it drives crappy better then when the spark plug blew out lol not as loud either. Been thinking I should have auto zone run the scan to see if the code successfully showes either spark plug or coil pack our I goofed up a hose wrong lol you know something better than I think I didn't tighten it down all the way.
My question is can the insert go to deep or does that lip/top part stop it at the right spot. Im afraid of going to deep but I feel like its Sooo close.
The "official" Ford approved insert is a Lock-N-Stitch aluminum insert. But Timesert is just as good.
Check out this vid on YouTube that I bet will answer all your questions.
About the only mistake I can find with the vid is he calls the aluminum insert a steel insert at the very end of the video. He correctly calls it an aluminum insert in the beginning, but he slipped up at the end.
Stewart
Last edited by Stewart_H; Mar 27, 2013 at 06:21 PM.
But how do I know when the dorman insert is inserted enough? Do I go until my extension breaks or just before it
If you can't tighten it anymore, look down the plug hole and see if it's bottomed out. Use a wire hanger with a little J bend at the bottom to see if you can slip it under the dorman. If you can't, it's all the way down. I would have used red locktite when screwing it down though. I bet it wasn't meant to be backed out and screwed back it.
If you can't tighten it anymore, look down the plug hole and see if it's bottomed out. Use a wire hanger with a little J bend at the bottom to see if you can slip it under the dorman. If you can't, it's all the way down. I would have used red locktite when screwing it down though. I bet it wasn't meant to be backed out and screwed back it.
I'll have to try the hanger with a bend, I did use red lock tight I was just wondering since the lock tight is cured if I should clean it up and re-apply the red lock tight.
Dag-nabbit I over tighten the Dorman/Spark Plug Thread Repair Kit insert so it's off to the shop for the time sert (the right way). 40-50 for the part plus 88 an hour for labor
Dag-nabbit I over tighten the Dorman/Spark Plug Thread Repair Kit insert so it's off to the shop for the time sert (the right way). 40-50 for the part plus 88 an hour for labor
Dag-nabbit I over tighten the Dorman/Spark Plug Thread Repair Kit insert so it's off to the shop for the time sert (the right way). 40-50 for the part plus 88 an hour for labor
This implies that you were paying $40-50 for the time-sert...is this incorrect?
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