The best way I have found to check the steering linkage is to turn the key to the run position ( don't start the truck ) and have someone turn the wheel left to right changing directions just when the tires begin to turn, while they continue to turn the steering wheel left to right climb under the truck and watch each tie-rod end and pitman arm, all of the linkage should move with the pitman arm with no lateral slop, so as soon as the pitman arm moves so should the rest of the steering components ie: drag link, tie-rod and steering knuckles. If there is any lateral slop in a tie-rod end or pitman arm they need to be replaced. Mind you this is all done with the tires firmly on the ground. Rotational movement is ok.

Now for the ball joints. Jack one side of the truck up ( make sure to throw a jack stand under the truck to support it just in case the jack fails ) and grasp the tire at the top and bottom and alternate pushing in and out top to bottom, there should be no movement when you do this. Doing it this way will show you if there is slop in the wheel bearings, then remove the tire and take a large pry bar and place the end of it between the the yoke of the axle and the back of the steering knuckle where the ball joint stud goes through and pry against it, there should be very little to no movement.

 

When you say lateral slop and rotational movement referring to the steering linkage, what exactly is the difference between the two? Sorry for the ignorance, just a 19 year old kid that wants to go to diesel mechanic school next year and trying to learn stuff before I go.

 

 

Not an expert, but struggled with a vibration only while braking, everything under the truck was tight, rebalanced tires, changed tires, changed wheels, had just about given up, had my rotors turned and watched it being done, no skips on the lathe at all, so i thought that would not help either, but it did, after turning the vibration was gone, rotors on these trucks are beefy, I guess they are hard to warp but can get "hot spots" metal gets over heated and hard, would catch ...slid ...catch ..slid, just saying if all else fails

Edit Not on the truck in my signature on my 2004 F250 Crew Cab 4X4 6.0

 

Lateral slop is left to right and rotational would be if you grasped the tie-rod and twisted it front to back.

 

Thats anouther good point Hired Gun ,Rotors

 

Thanks mustang, makes sense now. I'll check to see which ways the u joints at the end of the axles are moving in the morning. I remember being able to move them, but not if it was lateral or rotational.

I've pondered on the rotors a bit. The only time I have vibration under breaking is when I almost come to a complete stop, and then sometimes I hear a loud "clunk". Are there any easy ways to test if the rotors are warped or need to be replaced?

I already kinda had planned to replace the rotors with some Raybestos slotted rotors, because I had my pads replaced 6 months ago and about a month ago my breaks feel sloggish again. Surely the pads aren't already done for.

But even at that, how would/could rotors cause vibration when not even breaking at highway speeds?

 

my 08 F150 has been randomly shaking for 2 months. replaced upper ball joint, checked u joints. not a steering wheel shake, entire cab. same intensity till pull over. suddenly brakes begin to grind. found compressed flex line, fixed brakes. week later same vibration. noticed e brake light staying on. had it fixed. vibration gone.

 

when the ujoints in the steering knuckle on my f250 were starting to seize, it would jerk the truck to one side. the hubs were not locked. replaced it and was fine.

 

How were you able to see that was the problem? Or did you just change them and it fixed it? Haha.

 

I had no idea what was causing it, my mechanic took care of it.

 

Hmm alright. See, my U joints in the steering knucle are loose, I can move them around with my hand. Not sure if that's normal or not.. Haha.