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Vibrating Vehicle

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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 07:31 PM
  #1  
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Vibrating Vehicle

For some time now I have had a vehicle that has had a vibration in the passenger front side. Last year I replaced the shocks, got new tires, and an alignment....and the vibration continued. I stored my vehicle for a little over a year and the vibration is still there. After some driving I noticed some flat spots on the front right tire. The few flat spots turned into several flat spots after a 350 mile drive. This weekend I replaced the wheel bearing and bought a new tire for the damaged one.....the vibration continues. Perhaps after using the vehicle while vibrating for several thousands of miles I damaged the shock. I am considering replacing it again....but if that does not resolve the issue I am really at a loss. Does anyone have any other ideas?

Thanks

P.S. The vibration kicks in around 60 - 65mph. I've never driven over 80mph to see if it goes away.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 07:56 PM
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Start with rotating the tires to see if the vibration moves. That will either confirm or elimnate the tire as the source. Check to see if the brake rotor is warped. Check all of the steering componants(tie rods/ ball joints etc).

Matt
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 10:12 PM
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If the rotor is warped, you would get a vibration/wobbling when you are braking. If that's not the case, I doubt it's the rotor.

Is it 4x4? You could get it up on jack stands, then run the truck with the wheel off the ground so you can actually look and listen with the wheel turning. If you do this, make sure to get the jack stands on the frame of the truck- if the vibration isn't there with no weight on the front wheel, that can help eliminate the source. And BE CAREFUL!!! Make darn sure this is done on level ground and the truck is properly placed on the jack stands.

It could be the ball joints.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 11:11 PM
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Today I got a new tire on the front passenger side (source of vibration) and still have the same issue. I am not sure the term flat spots is completely accurate in my case. They are like 3-4" what look like skid marks where the rubber had been scraped away. They are not even the full width of the tire. Usually they are the width of one or possibly two treads.

What should I be look for when it comes to the ball joints/tie rods. Any way to test them on the vehicle?
 
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 12:19 AM
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Like norfolk nova said, move the tire. You might have a warped rim. If the rim was not put back on properly (over torqued on one side before snugging them all around) it could vibrate because it is not in good alignment with the seat. Could be as simple as a weight falling off the rim/unbalanced tire. eliminating the tire/rim would be very informative.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 12:19 AM
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To check ball joints and Tie rods you just have to jack the front wheels off the ground. To check ball joints grab the tire at 12 and 6 and try and wobble the tire. If there is play, bad ball joints. To check steering linkage grab the wheel at 3 and 9 and try to wobble it. If there is play there is something wrong with the steering linkage. If that's the case try to get a helper to wobble the tire while you inspect ALL of the steering linkage.

**By wobble I mean push in and pull out when holding the tire at the right positions.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 12:21 AM
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If you have a good spare put the spare on and see if your rim is warped.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 10:21 AM
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I'll be sure to try and swap my spare and see how it does. I was under the impression that by grabbing the tire at 6 and 12, and then at 3 and 9 you were checking the bearings. I had done this previously and had a little play at 3 and 9 and more significant play at 6 and 12 and so I replaced the bearings. After replacing them there was no play at 3 and 9 but still some play at 6 and 12. From what was said above it sounds like I could have bad ball joints. I have yet to check the manual to see how to replace these. What's the difficulty/time on this sort of a job?
 
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 12:19 PM
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what type of truck/ make model year 2 wheel or 4 wheel drive? On my 92 F250 4x4 it took me about 3 hours per side

Matt
 
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 01:32 PM
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Ball joints require you to remove the brake rotor and hub assembly, then the spindle and then the steering knuckle. Once those are off you have to remove the retaining snap rings and hammer the old ones out. Then you use a ball joint press to put the new ones in. Here is a video:

2WD:
Ford F150 Ball Joint - YouTube

4WD:
Ball joint change in a 1987 - 1996 Ford F150 or Bronco 4x4 - YouTube
 
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 09:40 PM
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Today I swapped tires to see if the vibration followed the wheel. Truth be told I can't really tell. I moved the tire from the front passenger side to the front drivers side. My first impression was that there seemed to be more vibration on the drivers side where there had not been but as I drove further could not be sure.

I wanted to mention something I noticed on the passengers front wheel prior to replacing the bearings. I went to take off the tire after driving around a bit and the lug nuts were fairly warm/hot. I could hold them but to do so for a while would hurt. Remembering this I decided to check them again now after replacing the bearings and after driving a bit. What I found is that on both the passengers and drivers side the lug nuts are warm/hot. The rear lug nuts are not.

What could be causing the lugs and nuts to be getting hot on both front tires?
 
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 12:38 AM
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Friction, determining where is the big question.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2012 | 10:04 AM
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Well my first thought was that it is most likely not related to my new bearing. If the new bearing side was the only side that was hot I would suspect it, but considering it's on both sides the most logical answer seems to be the brakes. Perhaps my rear brakes are not being used as much as they should be and causing too much of the braking to be done by the front brakes only. Thanks everyone for the help.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2012 | 11:25 AM
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Put the suspect tire on the back of the truck, left rear. Now drive it and see. The way the scuff marks are, it sounds like ball joints and/or tie rods or drag link. Something is letting the tire drift left or right and roll "sideways" just a few degrees, which causes the scuff.

For reference, mine needs ALL of these things. Ball joints, drag link, brake rotors, tires, bearings checked/replaced/repacked, etc etc. Just having cash problems right now so it's gotta wait. Has a bit of a vibration at speed (40+ mph) and feels like it's in the front left. Steering is all over the place. Braking makes more vibrations due to my rotors being worn, but only during braking of course.
 
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