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Would a 85 f150 (300, 4x4) have a spout connector on it? I've read that you are supposed to disconnect it when setting the timing, but I'm not sure if I have one or not. I've heard it's just like 2 wires coming off the distributor, but I'm not sure which wires they are. I have the distributor with no vacuum advance and the module mounted on it.
Thanks guys, your help is very much appreciated. I bought this POS for $600.00 and you have helped me turn it into a good running truck. I'll see if I can post pics later, thanks again.
I disconnected the inline connector on the yellow wire coming from the module, and nothing changed. I revved it up a few times, and the timing still stayed the same (10 BTDC). I plugged back in the spout connector and tried it again and got the same results. Isn't the timing supposed to advance as rpms increase, or is it supposed to stay where you set it (10 btdc). Sorry about all the ?'s, my first time with this type of stuff. Thanks
With the SPOUT unplugged, it should stay the same. When you plug it in, the computer sends a signal to the ignition module to change the timing for any condition that needs it, including hi revs. Have you pulled the codes?
I'll check it again, but I'm pretty sure it wasn't advancing at all with the spout connected. I think pulling the codes might be over my head, I'll re-read you're link and maybe I can figure it out. Thanks
The short procedure is: warm up the engine, cut it off, put a jumper in the connectors, & turn the key to run. There will be a couple of clicks and maybe a SUPER fast flash, and then the codes will flash out and repeat. Then there's a 4-6sec pause, a single flash, another 4-6sec pause, and then more codes that repeat. Keep a pen & paper in hand and jot each one down as you count the flashes. If you lose count, just keep going and try to get back on track. When it finishes, turn the key off & do it again - it won't hurt.
When you have all the codes written down correctly, start it one more time, and when the codes are flashing out, pull the jumper FIRST, then turn the key off.
This might be a stupid question, but where do I find the connector to pull the codes? I can't find one, but I could be looking in the wrong spots.
Are you thinking I have a fuel injection? I should've explained what I have better, it's a 85 f150, 300, carburated (1barrel), and the module is on the distributor. There is no vacum advance. What would cause the timing to not advance?
Thanks again for the help.
Better yet just yank that dist. and put the old reliable duraspark dist and module in. It was a direct plug in on my truck. I had the same problems with timing and major driveability issues. After I changed the ignition system over to the circa 1982 system and put on a early 80's carb (direct bolt on also) the truck ran like never before and would actually idle without gagging you from running rich! I went to the junkard and picked up the dist, module, wiring harness from fender to dist, and carb for less than $50. Later I put the four barrel on for real fun!
That sounds like the way to go, wish I would have done that. How difficult of a project is that? I have a new carb (1 barrel), would I need a new one or would this still work? I'm going to pull the codes tomorow, hopefully I can get this figured out. I am considering this swap if I end up needed a new module, I think they're like $50.00. Thanks guys
If you can handle the carb swap and have pulled a dist than this would be easy. The carb I had on my 86 was electronic (had throttle position sensor and computer controlled main jet) so to make it simple I went to an old carb to eliminate any computer controls. You would not believe how much wiring and sensors I was able to pitch and clean up my engine compartment. I even removed the computer and sold it for $10 on e-bay! You could probably make your money back by selling your carb this way. After I wasted my time putting the 1 barrel back on I found the complete 4 barrel setup (Holley 390 cfm, Offenhauser intake, and newer FI cast headers) on E-bay for $350 including shipping! If you want to keep your truck with the 300 this is the setup to have! The added power is unreal! It felt like a different engine! I had to add traction bars to control the wheelhop I would get when the secondaries would open up under full throttle in second gear while driving! If I knew how to add pictures I would show you the setup. And you would see how easy it is. Keep me posted.
Thanks galaxiedan, that sounds like the way to go. I haven't heard many good things about the set up that I have, I'm going to call the junkyards tomorow and see what it'll cost me. I'll keep you posted, I know I can get more out of this engine.