I am replacing my wheel bearing...

I went to run my finger around the right hand side hub's right hand side outer race when it spun with almost no pressure...

The race spins beautifully, no hint of catching. The hub has no damage evident. The axle spline is beautiful and the bearing are in good order...

I am hoping the last repairer was very bodgie and did not realise the hub had been turned and he should have put the next size up race in it....

AND that is my question,,,

assuming there isnt a slaggy mess under the race, is it acceptable to go up a size cup to get a proper fit?

I will be building another diff so this is only temporary....

 

a more simple, less suspicious question would be...

does a race wear enough to spin that freely, that smoothly?

 

I'm guessing this is a continuation from the brake drum post?

A race should NEVER be able to spin when installed. The hub should never need machined where the race is put. Sounds like someone screwed up?

Typically there is no oversize race available. Not that you might not find something to work, maybe.

 

or PO could have installed the wrong bearing/race.
if it is good enough shape you should be able to get the #'s off it and check vs. application.

 

I've spent several hours looking all this jazz up (and more that y'all are unaware of), so the OP already has this info.

Both the Ford part numbers and the BIN's that are stamped on the bearings and cups.

BIN: Bearing Industry Number: What autoparts stores and bearing shops go by.

OP is not going to be able to find a cup that is a different size than C7TZ-1239-A / BIN: LM104911 that'll fit, cuz there's no such thing.

And, the OP lives in Australia, where these parts are as hard to find as grizzly bears.

If he lived here in the USA or Canada, I would not have had to spend sooo much time, coulda given him the info over the "Ameche."

 

If you have access to a machine shop you can have the hub repaired by either having it sleeved or they could build it up by welding then boring it to fit. Sometimes these things can be repaired using products made by Loctite. Good Luck and G day. Kenny

 

"there are 36 cups to fit the inner cone and 7 cups that fit the outer cone"
When the bearings bloke told me while trying to decipher the remnants of the bearing numbers, i thought if it spins but is not slaggy, lets just put a bigger cup in it.
When he told me the size variencies I thought he was telling me that because that was what he told his trade enquirys and that putting a bigger cup in it was the norm... perhaps i was just shooting of on a tangent like i am prone to do...

ND has been an absolute fantastic help to me and I am very thank-ful. He has spent a HUGE amount of time helping me sorting this and I will be forever grateful...
Hopefully there will be something i can help him with...

Good parts in australia are hard to get for early stuff ...
I've realised the only way i am going to get a good rear diff is to sort one myself. Everthing used I find will be well and truely used, especially considering the duty of dualies and 350's

Later this week I am going to be posting a doozy, something along the lines of what is the best late model HD diff that has good parts availability should i fit to my rear and what issues will i face...
In the meantime i have to complete this simply to turn the thing around for access to remove the tail...

ND, that hub i scored last week, the one the was supposed to be new... It has a two weld burs under the inner race. The race had already been removed meaning the seller knew it was damaged but still went ahead advertising and telling me it was good...when i picked it up i couldnt clean it for a proper inspect....

and thanks for your input too Kenny

 

i tookl my glasses down today...i was wrong about that hub having weld burs,,, there screwdriver marks from removal...

what i am excited about is i think i see the OM machining marks in the race seat....this is the inner bearing race. there is no way wear would have created the uniformity of those machineing mark.. sorta' very fine lines in the grain of the steel

 

Inner/outer bearings (C7TZ-1240-A / BIN: LM104949) and races (C7TZ-1239-A / BIN: LM104911) are the same.

 

gee i don't hope you don't mean the bearings, ala cones, for the inner and outer bearing positions in the hub, are the same size in diameter?...races too

that would really confuse me... ive definitely got two different sized bearings, distinctly one large and one small

your just goshing me surely...

 

Dana 60: Bearings, cones, whatever you want to call them are the same inner/outer as are the races.

When I gave you the same info originally, you made no mention of inner/outer being different.

.What are the BIN's stamped on your bearings and races?

 

hya Bill,

the bearing number you gave me where different so i thought the bearing would be different. It didnt occur for me to ask if they where the same size 'cause i would have looked reallly pendantic which is something i avoid...8)

I could not get all the BINS off the bearings, only partials.
The bearing bloke matched my partial numbers to two possibilities on the inner and three on the outer.... When i asked if there was a kit with the definete seal number he had, the partial matchs where revealed.
Not an exact way to do it, but so far so good...
I havnt cleaned the larger old inner bearing to compare it yet but it looks pretty right inspite of not wanting to touch the old dirty bearting to the new clean one...The small one matchs...

number are #'s are
KIT4612 BLM104949/BLM104911 & B387AS/B382 & OSCR28720

 

BLM104949 aka LM104949 = C7TZ-1239-A .. Outer Race / BLM104911 aka LM104911 = C7TZ-1240-A .. Outer Bearing.

387S = C7TZ-1244-A .. Inner Bearing / 2 1/4" I.D. x 53/64" thick / 382A = TCAA-1243-A .. Inner Race / 3 13/16" O.D. x 5/8" thick.

B6Y-1124-A .. Lock Washer / C9TZ-1175-A .. Axle Seal ~ Spicer/Dana part number: 35313

Applications: 1969 F350 Dana 70 from serial number F30,001 / 1970/79 F350 Dana 70.

Is this a bearing, race, seal, or a wombat?

 

a huge thanks ND

The other day I visited the wreckers to look at diffs and a private seller to buy a good hub...

The wreckers was really nerve wracking. When he asked me what i wanted I could hardly answer cause i still didnt know for sure. I answered, a dana70 dually, that's marked as a dana60 but actually has Dana70 internal...

He looked at me vaguely amused...
I continued on, "no worries, i can recognise what i want, the diff cover won't fit properly"
By now he staring at me like im mental. He says, "All the diffs covers fit properly" he says...
I reply, "Not mine, it seals but it doesnt fit flush, but don't worry, i can tell"
He has lost his patience with me by this time and points me over the other side of the block, "there over there, on a rack on the wall" he says...

I go over there looking thru. There was one dana70 with the tapered down end tube,
He showed me a D70 DRW housing. I was hoping to find a housing like mine, that i can easily identify from the cover but there where none.

The bloke i bought the hub from described his part as dana60 DRW. There was some confusion when i said i understood it to be dana60 SRW as the hub has straight sides and a flat mounting face. Dually hubs have rounded faces, or so my limited understanding of early stuff goes...

So far i can only describe my diff as a D60 housing with D70 internals.

I dont understand why it would be marked as a 60 if it is a 70...
i then dont understand why it doesnt have the tapered housing end if it is a 70...

OSCR28720 is the seal

a huge thanks for the OEM BINs ND...

is there a part number handy for the hub? but only if it's handy..