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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 10:08 PM
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body panel replacement

I Have a gigantic freaking dent in the right rear part of my bed...I'm going to order a new panel after I buy my welder...anyone ever done a replacement like this and took pics? I'd like any advice and pictures I can get please I've never done body work really but I'm a good welder imo
 
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 10:18 PM
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Check this guy out, I learned everything I know from asking him and watching how he does his work. There is also some very good istructional videos on youtube.
Projects 1938 Chevrolet Pepsi Truck - THE H.A.M.B.

Making a Metal 1938 Chevy Truck LH front fender - THE H.A.M.B.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 10:25 PM
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Yeah man. Lots of resources on the web if you Google for it. It's all the same but different.

How big of a repair ya gotta do? In any case, use .023 wire, watch your heat, and use butt joints if in the middle of a label. Edges can be lapped but it's not the preferred method. Use Blair spotweld cutters, have at least two grinders (one to cut and one with a flap wheel), and pay attention to the details...Don't get in a hurry.

How to Repair Quarter Panels - How To - Car Craft Magazine
Rust Repair Panels - Patch-Panel Save - Car Craft Magazine
 
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 10:31 PM
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This is one of the more difficult things to pull off .. Like has been said no lack of resources on the internet
 
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 12:10 AM
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Thanks for the resources guys this will help...I only have 0.35 wire so I will just have to watch my heat I guess,the panel will be from about the middle of the fender arch all the way back to the tail lights...that whole area will be replaced with a new panel,I'm just ganna take my time since I'm a beginner
 
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 09:22 PM
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Get some .023 wire. Its not expensive and will make for much less of a headache
 
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 10:21 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by jerry73
Thanks for the resources guys this will help...I only have .035 wire so I will just have to watch my heat I guess,the panel will be from about the middle of the fender arch all the way back to the tail lights...that whole area will be replaced with a new panel,I'm just ganna take my time since I'm a beginner
I suggest practicing on some scrap (or within the area to be removed) to determine if .035 wire is usable.

These rigs were built when panels were thicker but the fattest I would consider is .030 wire.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 05:55 PM
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You might wanna consider replacing the whole bedside. Its more spot welds to get out, but it may be an easier repair for your situation.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 03:23 AM
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Id like to do the whole side but that's a lot of $....I patched my floor pans today with a harbor freight welder with there brand of .030 wire...turned out alright but I have to get some Lincoln electric wire or this thing won't weld for crap
 
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 04:32 AM
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I've noticed that .030 wire works fine as long as the panels haven't thinned out over the years, but anywhere around rust/thinner metal it just ends up making bigger holes.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 12:23 AM
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Yea that's what I was dealing with all day since the metal was so thin
 
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 05:47 AM
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body panel replacement

someone told me to try out ESAB duall sheild 0.23,so I did on floor pans,worked just fine.I have MM211,which I have only used in the 220 mode,before I tackle lower door skins was wondering if i drop back to 110 would that be better for a novice like me,any suggestions?thanks
 
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 09:06 AM
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My 110v welder worked great. Still have to be careful burning holes. Its all about just making a bunch of tack welds until there is a solid bead and skipping around so the metal doesn't warp.
 
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