Just in case a few do it youselfers out there are concerned about how to weld in a new patch panel,or if you can even get access to welder,without warping or distorting the new and existing sheetmetal,try using a structural body panel adhesive that you should be able to find in most automotive or body supply stores.
I have been using it for a quite a little while now and have no problems with it and find it extremely tough and durable.I am right in the midst of replacing cabcorners,wheelwell panels and the lower rear box corners on 76 4x4.What I have found is that there is next to nothing for grinding,warping and mudding.Also when ya think about it,the complete panel where it has been "glued" on is totally sealed aroung the entire repair area rendering it virtually impossible for moisture to get in to the seams.I have welded alot of panels in the past,and will never do it anymore.(you could throw a few spots on if ya like the security of a weld job,but it is not necessary)This is just my own experience with this product,and have never had a job come back to haunt me,but its for the guys who want to do their own stuff but don't have a welder.Just on a quick footnote about overseas body panels,make sure that if you do not like them,that you are able to return them.I have had to return crappy panels about 6 times before I finally got a good piece to work with. My apologies on being so long winded,I hope this will help out a few of us.

 

Thanks for the info. Was always wondering about the new adhesives. I remember in high school(long time ago) 3-M rep told about a glue they used to put together a bus worked to good had to makean release agent to get it apart.
Do you flange before you glue? I was thinking this would give a guy a better chance of good fitment with little muddin.

 

I have never flanged a panel, but would like to try it.Seems like you would get a real nice smooth bond without hardly any mud.

 

I have many holes to repair in my old Bronco and the panel adhesive seems just the ticket.

some questions:

What gauge metal do you use to patch small holes? 2-3 inches in diameter.

Where can I get metal to cut for patch panels?

How much of an overlap do you use?

Thanks guys.

 

I usually use 18 guage sheetmetal,with about a 1 inch overlap around the whole area.As for a place to buy it, I buy it from a metal supply shop,welding shop,or even a body shop if need be.
Make sure that you read what type of panel adhesive you are purchasing in that some of them have faster cure time than others. The brand that I use is made by NORTON and should be fairly common in all body supply stores and automotive stores as well.3M also makes a good product as well,but where I live, it seems as if you are paying for the name.The most costly part of this venture is buying the applicator gun,but once you have it you are good to go.If you don't get to carried away with amount of adhesive you apply,the tubes should do quite a few patches for you.I had a buddy of mine just install some rocker panels in a 77 gmc(go figure..lol)4 hours later you could jump up and down on them without any worries.

Good luck...hope this helps

 

Wow! thanks for the good info, Supertruck!
You've sold me! That's what I'm gonna do.

One more equestion: what do I use to cut the sheet metal? Can I use aviation snips or will a jig saw be better?

 

I'm partial to another brand Called 'Fusor'
I've used it several times with resounding success.

And yes, it is extremely durable and stands up to cold weather very well.

Adhesive is exceptional for custom work. Frenching a license plate holder comes to mind... No warping

~Paris

 

I always use a small grinder and buy what is called ZIP DISCS for it.They are very thin but cuts extremely clean and quick.99% of all of my cutting is done with this unit,but I also use an air nibbler as well which is good for cutting circles or corners.

 

A jigsaw will work as well,just have areally good metal blade on it and always take your time.Nobody ever did a great job by being in a rush.

Good luck with Bronco,once ya start ya can't stop.

 

panel adhesive fan also.

I have an 86 F150. Rear wheel wells started to rust out.
Have a buddy in the body biz.
So we decided to do an experiment. One side we welded the repair panel. the other side we used adhesive.
There is no corrosion protection when you weld. Especially a pinch weld. You burn all the protection off. It will rust. Thats why all our trucks rust around the wheel wells.
My buddy was skeptical of the adhesive. He was concerned about separation issues.
That was three years ago. The welded side is starting to rust through. The adhesive side is just fine.
I do flange my repair panels.
Just remember the adhesive is for non structural panels.

zanny

 

Okay, I always wondered how one would protect the bacside of a weld job from rust. I guess you don't, eh?

But, when attaching a repaor panel using adhesive, do you have to grind to bare metal on both the repair panel and the old panel? Can you then coat with say, POR-15, and then use the adhesive?

And then, what the *%#! do I do with the inner fender which also rusted away where it was attacehd to the wheel arch? How do I rebuild that?

 

I didn't grind to bare metal.
As for the por 15, I've never used it. I would just use the adhesive. And then corosion protection.
The inner wheel arch can be eliminated. It basically gives support to the outer wheel arch. What I did was eliminate the inner wheel well. And then attached small rods from the wheel arch to the wheel well in the bed.
I then fabricated a plastic liner for the inner wheel well.
Take a look at the bottom of your wheel arch. You'll see the rods that support the bedside. And you already have a short plastic liner in the wheel well.

zanny

 

Awesome tips brought forth by ZANNI and other forum users.
I think that almost every quesion will be answered by one another on this post.I did not post it to be critical of anybody or judge their experience for using this type of product,but I hope that this post helps out those of uswho cannot weld or gain access to welder to try an alternative method.

Good luck to those who have tried and I wish the best to those that will.

BOB

 

I decided to repair well arch rust on my Bronco the "right " way by using replacement wheel arches.

Now, I am tryign to decide how to attach it. I don't weld, so I was consdiering using the panel adhesive you guys have raved about. I went to a local auto parts store and they can order the gun and adhesive, but I about fell over when teh gu said the gun was $280!

Maybe I'll have to consider soemting else!

But, to my question, how do you flange a panel? Special tools?

 

Exactly,there is a special tool that is called a panel flanger.I have seen them but have not personally used one myself.They do a great job and are fairly straight forward to use.As for the glue and the applicator gun,it is fairly costly, but the way I looked at it was once you buy it then you always have it.That price seems a bit bit too high in my opinion,I paid 120 for my whole setup which consisted basically of a double barreled caulking gun and the twin tube pack of adhesive and that was in canadian funds.