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OK, after pulling my instrument panel to replace a couple of the small 194 bulbs (and not plugging the instrument panel connector back in for couple of weeks), I put everything back together. Here's what happened. I pulled the light switch on (parking lights). The exterior lights all came on, but no instrument panel lights. When I pulled the light switch all the way out, I get no headlights. Rotating the instrument panel dimmer switch didn't help either. Now I know I have a very weak battery (lights are weak and also the truck won't start), but is this a symptom of battery, or light switch, typically?
Exterior lights work properly.
Turn signal lights work properly.
No other instrument panel lights work: the two general lights nor the high beam nor the brake light (when I connect a jumper at the plug).
The headlights work, but at only one setting - I haven't figured out if they work on low or high).
Lastly, my dome light comes on when door opens but not when I rotate the headlamp switch counterclockwise.
sounds like your headlight switch may be bad...it controls the brightness of the dash lights and dome light. Although you may not be able to see the dash lights in daylight hours...I cant see mine light up. But at night they are visible. Your high beam switch may or may not be bad depending if they switch over or not. Both are an easy fix...if that fixes your problem.
sounds like your headlight switch may be bad...it controls the brightness of the dash lights and dome light. Although you may not be able to see the dash lights in daylight hours...I cant see mine light up. But at night they are visible. Your high beam switch may or may not be bad depending if they switch over or not. Both are an easy fix...if that fixes your problem.
Definitely know the dash lights don't come on - I checked at night. Since my headlight switch on my 74 F-100 is a 'post C25000' serial numbered truck, I may try switching in the one from my 77 F-150, which should be the same. I know it works fine.
With the headlight switch pulled out to either stop and the **** turned all the way counter-clockwise, check for power on both sides of the dash illumination fuse. You need to identify where power is dropping out. If you've already checked the fuse, please explain what you actually did (don't just say it's fine).
The dome light / headlight switch issue sounds like an issue with the headlight switch or the wiring to it.
The brake warning switch will not come on just by jumping the two terminals in the plug. It's a ground-out switch. To get it to come on, you would jump the two terminals in the plug, then pull that common point to ground. The reason for two terminals in the plug is to prevent bypassing the prove-out safety mechanism.
With the headlight switch pulled out to either stop and the **** turned all the way counter-clockwise, check for power on both sides of the dash illumination fuse. You need to identify where power is dropping out. If you've already checked the fuse, please explain what you actually did (don't just say it's fine).
The dome light / headlight switch issue sounds like an issue with the headlight switch or the wiring to it.
The brake warning switch will not come on just by jumping the two terminals in the plug. It's a ground-out switch. To get it to come on, you would jump the two terminals in the plug, then pull that common point to ground. The reason for two terminals in the plug is to prevent bypassing the prove-out safety mechanism.
Ah, got it on the brake light - I'll check shortly. Also will check power on both sides of the 3A IP fuse. Yes, when I said the fuse was fine, I do mean that I tested it correctly. I took the fuse out, set my multimeter to ohms and tested resistance. No resistance = good. Infinite or open = bad.
And another observation - back a month ago my dash lights were working, but were acting up. I had to jiggle the rheostat **** from full dim to full bright to get the damn things to come on. Now, after unplugging both speedometer cable and main wiring connector from back of IP (for replacement of 194 bulbs), there's no lights at all.
Last edited by alchemist1; Mar 4, 2013 at 03:15 PM.
Reason: update
Switched out the light switch and that was the ticket. All interior lights come on, and so do the low beams. The dimming rheostat doesn't work so well, but I don't care about that as much.
one more question (sorry). should there be an ash tray light on the 74 F100? my 77 didn't have one, so not sure. Also, my high beam indicator light isn't coming on. is that typically a bad high beam switch (the switch is flaky, it sometimes cuts out the low beams and you have to push it off/on a couple of times to get the low beams to stay on)??
That's a good question on the ash tray; I'll have to defer to someone else (it was an options on sedans).
The high beam indicator can be a bad high beam switch, bad wiring, bad bulb, corroded contacts...anything to keep the light from coming on. You already need to replace the high beam switch because it's cutting off your low beams, so fix that first and see what's left over for you to deal with.
the light switches new can't get running lights and headlights the same time pulled out all the way to get headlights have to push in ways to get
What are you talking about? I have no idea what you're saying. Are you trying to say that the headlights and running lights can't be on at the same time? That's incorrect. If that were true, there would be no way for the tail lights to be on when the headlights are on. Your post is missing a bunch of words and doesn't make any sense.
What are you talking about? I have no idea what you're saying. Are you trying to say that the headlights and running lights can't be on at the same time? That's incorrect. If that were true, there would be no way for the tail lights to be on when the headlights are on. Your post is missing a bunch of words and doesn't make any sense.
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