engine break in additives
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 264
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From: bozeman
engine break in additives
howdy! couldnt find post any where on breaking in gas engines or using additives but i succefully installed my new motor !!!!! weee !!! im just going to say the hardest part about it was getting past everyones horror stories stuff , and the tools like not sure on metric but one the egr. lot of 13,8,&10 millimeters . but was pretty easy would do it again (plan on adding more pics to my build post)
so anyway im tryn to find out if break in additives are a yes or no for the 5.4, lucus? i was told by the people i bought it from to just use none synthetic for the first5,000
so anyway im tryn to find out if break in additives are a yes or no for the 5.4, lucus? i was told by the people i bought it from to just use none synthetic for the first5,000
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
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No additive.
What would you expect from using any?
The rings must seat against the bore for a pressure seal and oil seal.
Todays oils are far different in formulation than in past years.
Only thing I would tell you is put 5000 on and change it and the filter.
Good luck.
What would you expect from using any?
The rings must seat against the bore for a pressure seal and oil seal.
Todays oils are far different in formulation than in past years.
Only thing I would tell you is put 5000 on and change it and the filter.
Good luck.
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2010
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I rebuilt engine, class eights at work and gas at home, I am a firm believer in changing the oil filter after the first 8 hours of operation then, change the oil and filter at about 2,000 to 2,500 miles. after that you regular interval.
I buy the little pencil magnets, Sears sells then, most discount parts store as well, Most are .200 I drill the oil pan plug with a .195 drill bit and drive the magnet in the plug while it is hot, from drilling, in the vise.
It does two things it gets the very fine particles out of the oil and after the second change any particles found are signs of a problem.
I never use any oil additives accept ATF about 1/2 hour of operation before I change the oil best flush available,
Just a thought!
I buy the little pencil magnets, Sears sells then, most discount parts store as well, Most are .200 I drill the oil pan plug with a .195 drill bit and drive the magnet in the plug while it is hot, from drilling, in the vise.
It does two things it gets the very fine particles out of the oil and after the second change any particles found are signs of a problem.
I never use any oil additives accept ATF about 1/2 hour of operation before I change the oil best flush available,
Just a thought!
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: bozeman
yah i already put 400 miles on the motor with just plain 5-20 mobil changing here at 500 theni believ 1,000 then2or3,000, @5g going to full synthetic mobil or royal purple . any thoughts or coments are welcome . pic still coming soon
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,907
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On re-ringed race motors I use standard oil non detergent/ no additive oil for inital breakin then to the race oil.
The object is to get the rings seated first.
Additives get in the way of seating.
The cross hatch in the bore is to help the ring seating and mating of the surfaces.
The cross hatch holds oil to permote hydraulic sealing as well as lubrication during and after seating settles down to normal wear rates.
Every engine ring/bore combination has an optium set of conditions for this.
What we find on these motors even with very high mileage when taken apart is the cross hatch is still visable.
I would relate this to at least two things, ring pak pressure and the oil used.
The science has come so far from the old days that getting 200,000 plus miles on an older push rod motor almost never happens but now it's routine with these motors since the late 90s.
Good luck.
The object is to get the rings seated first.
Additives get in the way of seating.
The cross hatch in the bore is to help the ring seating and mating of the surfaces.
The cross hatch holds oil to permote hydraulic sealing as well as lubrication during and after seating settles down to normal wear rates.
Every engine ring/bore combination has an optium set of conditions for this.
What we find on these motors even with very high mileage when taken apart is the cross hatch is still visable.
I would relate this to at least two things, ring pak pressure and the oil used.
The science has come so far from the old days that getting 200,000 plus miles on an older push rod motor almost never happens but now it's routine with these motors since the late 90s.
Good luck.
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: bozeman
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,907
Likes: 143
Respectfully, your wrapped up to much with other sources on oil.
With Ford, all you need is Motorcraft 5w20 blend, the MC 820 filter, a change interval that reasonable and forget all the other stuff about oils from other sources.
We have trucks here going well over 200,000 miles on MC oil and my own is over 187,000 on MC oil.
There are no improved oils to use at this time for 'normal long term use' without the extra expense that buys nothing extra in engine life.
The bodies begin to rust apart before the motors are worn out.
The difference is these motors are an advanced design, require more specific lube and weight and are still a leader in that reguard, after being introduce back in the 90s.
Most other designs are still push rod.
Not trying to be insulting but these motors are that much different in all respects.
Good luck.
With Ford, all you need is Motorcraft 5w20 blend, the MC 820 filter, a change interval that reasonable and forget all the other stuff about oils from other sources.
We have trucks here going well over 200,000 miles on MC oil and my own is over 187,000 on MC oil.
There are no improved oils to use at this time for 'normal long term use' without the extra expense that buys nothing extra in engine life.
The bodies begin to rust apart before the motors are worn out.
The difference is these motors are an advanced design, require more specific lube and weight and are still a leader in that reguard, after being introduce back in the 90s.
Most other designs are still push rod.
Not trying to be insulting but these motors are that much different in all respects.
Good luck.
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