Oil Change Interval
I predict you'll get about 42 replies and probably 37 different answers.OK, I'll stick my neck out first.
- There have been studies done documenting how much copper, iron, nickel, aluminum, etc. is found in oil after running it in an engine for various periods of time.
- There have been studies done documenting water vapor, acid, etc. contamination found in oil after running it in an engine for various periods of time.
- There have been studies done documenting breakdown of oil additives after running it in an engine for various periods of time.
- There are case histories of engines failing from all three causes listed above. Some of these case histories contradict what the studies showed. Back to square one. There are just too many variables to give a hard answer - an edumacated guess is about all you can expect.
Let's assume:
- You run your engine long enough (20 minutes minimum) to thoroughly warm it up each time you use it
- You run your engine at least once every couple of weeks
- Your engine does not run hot due to performance modifications or broken parts
- Your engine is not used under severe conditions like drag racing, etc.
- You don't use your air cleaner to vacuum up all the dust after the Baha 1000
- You use a brand-name multi-viscosity oil, or a synthetic oil, and a quality oil filter
The more often you change your oil and filter, the cleaner the oil will be. There is, however, a point of diminishing return. Changing it every five years is not nearly often enough, every week is way too often. My guess is you could change it every six months and be well below the danger line where you would notice any oil-induced engine damage over the life of the engine. With your low mileage use, you probably could get by with changing oil and filter once a year. At that longer interval, I'd be just a little concerned that water vapor condensation during weather changes (temperature and humidity) might start to overload the oil with water vapor, and create some internal corrosion problems. The cost of the oil and a filter in my mind doesn't warrant going from six months to a year.
A side note - an old fellow once told me that changing oil, and not changing the filter, was like taking a shower and not changing your underwear.
On my grocery getter I change the oil every 3000 miles. Sometimes three months have elapsed (winter) and sometimes not (summer). I pretty much ignore the 3 month interval. On my rods I've always used Mobil-1 synthetic oil and I change the oil and filter once a year (whether it needs it or not!
). This may not work for everyone, but it works for me and I have never had an engine problem related to infrequent oil changes. However, I don't recall ever putting more than 5-6K miles on a rod in a year. I suppose if my annual mileage was a lot higher than that, once a year would not be often enough.
Vern
I'll do my best George.
You should be able to tell by the taste when it needs changed. Get a baseline taste right after you change it and remember it. About once a month, pull the dipstick and give her a lick.
1. Just a bit of gasoline or carbon taste is completely normal, so don't be alarmed. You're still good. Don't change it yet.
2. If it burns your tongue, that means the engines been running. Try again tomorrow morning.
3. If it starts tasting like it's got a lot of metal in it, it's time for a change.
Hopefully you licked your internal engine wear parts like main and cam bearings when you built the motor so you know what your looking for. If you didn't, then you might be in trouble here. I would then suggest you just change a low use engine oil and filter a couple times a year and it will likely never even get dirty. Cost you 20 bucks a year and forget worrying about it.
Last edited by fatfenders; Feb 6, 2005 at 08:47 AM.
as for the different answer, a little trick ive been brought up by is when you check it, dont be afraid to wipe the dipstick off with your finger, and see if it smells different,(if it smells TOO gassy, then it should be changed) and check to see how good it wipes off your finger. If your finger stays dirty/dingy, then the oil is dirty and should be changed, if it wipes off clean, your good for a while yet.
it works, those are what i go by all the time...
Darrell
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thanks, Abe
The moisture that accumulates in the oil will vent out once the engine has been run to operating temperature.
I do mine every fall so all the internal parts are coated with fresh clean oil. In the spring once its run for a few miles any moisture that was in the oil will boil out.
Maybe not the right way, Just my way!
Kevin Bigwin
you should also remember to keep your gas tank as full as practical. Also, for oil change frequency, take into consideration that some carbs will, over time, drain their bowls into the engine. This draining gas would be a very good reason to change your oil more frequently. Jag
Didn't think to smell it... I'm sure I changed the oil last year, but not the filter, so maybe that was the difference. Anyway I changed the oil and filter a couple of weeks ago and was thinking about going to twice a year, pretty cheap vs. major engine work.
A friend of mine has oil that turns that color often. His is caused by a small crack in his head.
Coolant bubbles up and mixes with the oil, then runs down the oil drain. His has been like this for years, but he only drives it to shows on the weekend. Good Luck, Jag












