Intro and upgrading a 360
Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 54
Likes: 7
I converted a 1968 360 in to 390.
Of course went with the 390 crankshaft and rods out of a 1968 390 GT.
Installed the Edelbrock #7105 intake (Performer-RPM) because this 390 likes to breathe!
Used a Fel-Pro 390 Gasket kit.
Went with the Edelbrock Performer Plus Camshaft (#2106) because it had the closest specs to the 1968 390GT camshaft.
We also installed 30 over Sealed Pro 9.5:1 pistons with the dish and eyebrows to run 93 octane.
Then added a Holley 650 double-pumper. (All DPs are manual secondary)
This engine is more than enough to move my 1968 F100 Ranger.
This setup is more than welcomed to be duplicated.
Just let me know if you come across a better, more powerful set-up.
I want to hear about it.
And let me know what you think about this one.
Of course went with the 390 crankshaft and rods out of a 1968 390 GT.
Installed the Edelbrock #7105 intake (Performer-RPM) because this 390 likes to breathe!
Used a Fel-Pro 390 Gasket kit.
Went with the Edelbrock Performer Plus Camshaft (#2106) because it had the closest specs to the 1968 390GT camshaft.
We also installed 30 over Sealed Pro 9.5:1 pistons with the dish and eyebrows to run 93 octane.
Then added a Holley 650 double-pumper. (All DPs are manual secondary)
This engine is more than enough to move my 1968 F100 Ranger.
This setup is more than welcomed to be duplicated.
Just let me know if you come across a better, more powerful set-up.
I want to hear about it.
And let me know what you think about this one.
Last edited by BrotherMabe; Apr 2, 2013 at 09:42 PM. Reason: More Info: We installed Hedman Headers (3") No clearance problems at all!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Decent combo IMO. 'not sure if the 2106 includes 'em but I wouldda changed valve springs.
Double pumpers are four barrels working 3600 seconds an hour and 24/7... that's why they drink gasoline. Good for racing... not encouraged for a DD.
Double pumpers are four barrels working 3600 seconds an hour and 24/7... that's why they drink gasoline. Good for racing... not encouraged for a DD.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,731
Likes: 20
From: Four Oaks, NC
Hello - new to the forums and to the F100! 
I will be picking up my "new" Ranger tomorrow (1970 F100, 360, C6, 2wd, LWB). There are two engine items that require immediate attention based on my inspection:
Exhaust leaking at pass side manifold (read a bunch of threads - apparently a common issue), so I'm not looking forward to removing those exhaust bolts!
Massive oil leak, appears to be from the intake manifold. Also apparently a common issue. The good news is that there's not even any surface rust on the front half of the frame.
Sooo, since I'm going to be pulling some things apart, naturally I want to do more work than necessary and throw more money away.
This is obviously a slippery slope, as these light upgrades can easily turn into big upgrades. I need to draw a line somewhere....
I don't intend to go full tilt on a rebuild right now, the engine runs great and seems to be well maintained, so the 390 conversion will have to wait a while (pending results of leakdown/compression tests I plan to do soon).
This will be a weekend driver only. May be doing some light towing, but mostly a fun truck to cruise around town...so looking for some performance on 87 octane.
I don't like buying parts twice, so everything I do I want to be well suited for the 390 conversion later on if possible.
This leads me to several questions - please feel free to answer one or many or all!
1) are there any gaskets that are better than others for the intake manifold that will end the steady flow of oil these things seem to spew?
2) I am wanting to convert to a 4bbl. This means an intake (which - OE or aftermarket?)
3) .....and a carb (which brand and what cfm?) Seems like 650 is the right number and would work with the 390 too?
4) .....and is now the time to do a cam (knowing it won't work for the 390) and lifters etc...or is the gain not worth it until the 390?
5) since I'm pulling exhaust manifolds, I am going to go the headers route. I am aware of the starter heat issue, so I may try to find a heat shroud for the starter (and will probably replace the starter while I'm down there). Is there a type/brand of starter that's better than others?
6) .....and for the headers, I am going with shorties (for the starter clearance)...looking at Stan's Tri-Y or Sanderson's based on what I've seen on the FE forum...any recent feedback on either of those for our trucks, or other similar suggestions?
7) I will also be doing a dual exhaust system...is there any guide line on scavenging, X/H pipe location, mufflers, that will help sort out the exhaust layout? Oh I'm sure this will open a can of worms!
8 ) I will also do the Duraspark conversion. Does it matter if it's Duraspark or Duraspark II?
Lots of questions, I've spent a lot of time researching but it's a lot to sort out - thanks in advance!
I will be picking up my "new" Ranger tomorrow (1970 F100, 360, C6, 2wd, LWB). There are two engine items that require immediate attention based on my inspection:
Exhaust leaking at pass side manifold (read a bunch of threads - apparently a common issue), so I'm not looking forward to removing those exhaust bolts!
Massive oil leak, appears to be from the intake manifold. Also apparently a common issue. The good news is that there's not even any surface rust on the front half of the frame.
Sooo, since I'm going to be pulling some things apart, naturally I want to do more work than necessary and throw more money away.
This is obviously a slippery slope, as these light upgrades can easily turn into big upgrades. I need to draw a line somewhere....I don't intend to go full tilt on a rebuild right now, the engine runs great and seems to be well maintained, so the 390 conversion will have to wait a while (pending results of leakdown/compression tests I plan to do soon).
This will be a weekend driver only. May be doing some light towing, but mostly a fun truck to cruise around town...so looking for some performance on 87 octane.
I don't like buying parts twice, so everything I do I want to be well suited for the 390 conversion later on if possible.
This leads me to several questions - please feel free to answer one or many or all!
1) are there any gaskets that are better than others for the intake manifold that will end the steady flow of oil these things seem to spew?
2) I am wanting to convert to a 4bbl. This means an intake (which - OE or aftermarket?)
3) .....and a carb (which brand and what cfm?) Seems like 650 is the right number and would work with the 390 too?
4) .....and is now the time to do a cam (knowing it won't work for the 390) and lifters etc...or is the gain not worth it until the 390?
5) since I'm pulling exhaust manifolds, I am going to go the headers route. I am aware of the starter heat issue, so I may try to find a heat shroud for the starter (and will probably replace the starter while I'm down there). Is there a type/brand of starter that's better than others?
6) .....and for the headers, I am going with shorties (for the starter clearance)...looking at Stan's Tri-Y or Sanderson's based on what I've seen on the FE forum...any recent feedback on either of those for our trucks, or other similar suggestions?
7) I will also be doing a dual exhaust system...is there any guide line on scavenging, X/H pipe location, mufflers, that will help sort out the exhaust layout? Oh I'm sure this will open a can of worms!
8 ) I will also do the Duraspark conversion. Does it matter if it's Duraspark or Duraspark II?
Lots of questions, I've spent a lot of time researching but it's a lot to sort out - thanks in advance!
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 795
Likes: 0
I was going to do an x/h pipe a while back but never did get around to it. Decide to do an x pipe because I like the sound better, either way has different advantages. H pipe sounds good but can get kind of roughing sound where x pipe seems a little smoother.
Summit, JC whitney have kits for under 200.00. Ebay has x pipe connectors for around 30 bucks. CL's has, usually used x pipe off a mustang for around 100.00 pop up.
Read where if you install either you should find hot spot. Spray paint exhaust pipes, starter her up and see where paint burns off first. Sounds good unfortunate I've read where our trucks may not allow for exact hot spot install. Up front off headers pipe has go down some before go acrossing to other pipe. Spare tire can get in the way. I remember just looking under truck helped when I put a new exhaust system, missus an x/h pipe. Yea should done it then. Hope this helps, another project I have to get back to after I finish this, that and the other thing.
Summit, JC whitney have kits for under 200.00. Ebay has x pipe connectors for around 30 bucks. CL's has, usually used x pipe off a mustang for around 100.00 pop up.
Read where if you install either you should find hot spot. Spray paint exhaust pipes, starter her up and see where paint burns off first. Sounds good unfortunate I've read where our trucks may not allow for exact hot spot install. Up front off headers pipe has go down some before go acrossing to other pipe. Spare tire can get in the way. I remember just looking under truck helped when I put a new exhaust system, missus an x/h pipe. Yea should done it then. Hope this helps, another project I have to get back to after I finish this, that and the other thing.
Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 54
Likes: 7
When it was recommended for me to purchase the DP, I was curious as to why?
I'm going to try it for now and see if everything levels out when the truck pulls, as we are just now getting the exterior panels back on for painting.
If not, what do you recommend?
And, yes, we purchased new valve springs with the camshaft.
Thx again.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
I was going to do an x/h pipe a while back but never did get around to it. Decide to do an x pipe because I like the sound better, either way has different advantages. H pipe sounds good but can get kind of roughing sound where x pipe seems a little smoother.
Summit, JC whitney have kits for under 200.00. Ebay has x pipe connectors for around 30 bucks. CL's has, usually used x pipe off a mustang for around 100.00 pop up.
Summit, JC whitney have kits for under 200.00. Ebay has x pipe connectors for around 30 bucks. CL's has, usually used x pipe off a mustang for around 100.00 pop up.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 795
Likes: 0
Was looking at your parts supply list on another thread and went to summit just to look around. I was surprised to find a large selection of x pipe stuff. Don't remember there being that much for x pipes before, some good prices too.
Search Results for x pipe - SummitRacing.com
Might have to take a serious look at this stuff when I get caught up on a couple other truck projects. Thanks!
7... no input needed. It's too subjective.
Awww I was hoping someone would bite on the scavenging remark
I was going to try and built my own when I was going to do an x pipe. In winter/early spring I have more time than money, landscaper. IMO at summits prices really not worth trying to build your own. Ok enough said, I will leave it alone now.
Search Results for x pipe - SummitRacing.com
Might have to take a serious look at this stuff when I get caught up on a couple other truck projects. Thanks!
7... no input needed. It's too subjective.
Awww I was hoping someone would bite on the scavenging remark
I was going to try and built my own when I was going to do an x pipe. In winter/early spring I have more time than money, landscaper. IMO at summits prices really not worth trying to build your own. Ok enough said, I will leave it alone now.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,522
Likes: 11
From: Townsend, MT
Why is everybody recommending such huge carburetors? 500 CFM is plenty of carb for built 390.
When I did my 416, The only gaskets i used were the head and side intake manifold gaskets. The rest is grey RTV.
I have Sanderson headers. Very high quality.
When I did my 416, The only gaskets i used were the head and side intake manifold gaskets. The rest is grey RTV.
I have Sanderson headers. Very high quality.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
The only gaskets i used were the head and side intake manifold gaskets. The rest is grey RTV.
I have Sanderson headers. Very high quality.[/QUOTE]
Oh someone will hate you if they ever have to pull that motor apart..
orich
I have Sanderson headers. Very high quality.[/QUOTE]
Oh someone will hate you if they ever have to pull that motor apart..
orich
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Shorty's I've only seen on a display rack. I don't know but yes with the 427 block huggers. And you'll have less then a 1/2 inch clearance or less to the end of the starter. You have too drop the header to remove the stock starter okay. But if you go with a mini starter you can remove it okay with Out dropping the header and just enough room to add a heat blanket if you want!..
orich
orich
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