Winter Hell
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Winter Hell
Hey everyone, I'm new to the site, but joined for a good reason. I have a '93 F150 5.0 with dual tanks. Recently, in lower temperatures. I've been having some troubles with it starting, staying idle and taking fuel. I've replaced the fuel pressure regulator and it ran great. then the temperature dropped tonight and it went back to stalling and acting thirsty for gasoline. I let it warm up for about a good 20 minutes and the thing will run like it's new. Anything before that, the second I put it into gear it will die, I'll have to hold my foot on the gas and wait to get her running again, then let her warm up until she's ready.
I'm not mechanically inclined however, I've been in parts for sometime not and here are my thoughts as to what it could be from doing a little research.
Fuel filter was changed about 5k miles ago. But possibly a bad fuel filter.
EGR Valve
Fuel Pump. Though the fuel pump sounds as if it's working normal as always.
I'm kind of lost here and nothing seems like it's going to be a cheap fix. So the real question is, what can I do to limp it through until my next payday?
I'm not mechanically inclined however, I've been in parts for sometime not and here are my thoughts as to what it could be from doing a little research.
Fuel filter was changed about 5k miles ago. But possibly a bad fuel filter.
EGR Valve
Fuel Pump. Though the fuel pump sounds as if it's working normal as always.
I'm kind of lost here and nothing seems like it's going to be a cheap fix. So the real question is, what can I do to limp it through until my next payday?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,933
Likes: 0
From: VA
Well, many vehicles tend to run better when they're warmed up. As far as the dying unless you're on the gas, what RPM does it idle at in gear when it's cold? You could always just tighten up your throttle linkage to crank it up 100-200 rpms at idle. It'll be less likely to stall, and it'll warm up quicker. That's IS a cheap fix.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 425
Likes: 1
From: Fort Worth, Texas
First and formost welcome to the site and stick around a while theres a very good folllowing here.
Now the problem, Make sure your gas tank vents and the vacuum canisters at the front are getting good vacuum. Follow your vapor lines out and make sure nothing is obviously crushed or clogged. Rather than a workaround I would seek the problem. Get an OBDI scan tool from someone and check it for codes. Theres a way to do it with a paper clip too but the tool is like 25 dollars at Oreilly and comes with instructions.
Now the problem, Make sure your gas tank vents and the vacuum canisters at the front are getting good vacuum. Follow your vapor lines out and make sure nothing is obviously crushed or clogged. Rather than a workaround I would seek the problem. Get an OBDI scan tool from someone and check it for codes. Theres a way to do it with a paper clip too but the tool is like 25 dollars at Oreilly and comes with instructions.
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Joined: Feb 2013
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Well, many vehicles tend to run better when they're warmed up. As far as the dying unless you're on the gas, what RPM does it idle at in gear when it's cold? You could always just tighten up your throttle linkage to crank it up 100-200 rpms at idle. It'll be less likely to stall, and it'll warm up quicker. That's IS a cheap fix.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,226
Likes: 42
From: The OC
There's a couple of things you could try before you spend money on parts. First, disconnect your MAP sensor plug to see if it runs better. It won't last long as the computer will eventually try to compensate. If it runs better when the plug is disconnected, you probably need a new one. Remove and clean the IAC. But you really need to check for codes.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,698
Likes: 47
From: Mexico, Missouri
As stated by lv2race, disconnect IAC. Remove bllts attaching it to TB. Clean the plunger and bore using either electronic, brake cleaner or carb cleaner. Do not allow any chemical into solenoid/electrical part of sensor. Check gasket. If bad, replace. Reinstall. Disconnect neg. battery terminal at least 10 mins. Reconnect, then drive minimum of 5 miles @ 55 mph. You can also also let it idle for min of 10-15 mins as this will let it relearn idle. Check resistance values of ECT and ACT sensors when cold and when hot. Could be some discrepancies between the 2 sensors when cold. Rent, borrow, purchase fuel pressure tester to verify fuel pressure.
Also, do not tamper with TB plate screw. This is calibrated to your setup and adjusting it will only cause you more headaches in the future. If you wish to do so, attain the current TPS voltage its is providing with ignition switch on. This will give you a close value if you ever need to adjust TB plate screw.
Also, do not tamper with TB plate screw. This is calibrated to your setup and adjusting it will only cause you more headaches in the future. If you wish to do so, attain the current TPS voltage its is providing with ignition switch on. This will give you a close value if you ever need to adjust TB plate screw.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 6,473
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From: Lafayette, IN
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,698
Likes: 47
From: Mexico, Missouri
Agreed on codes. I thought I posted that but guess it got deleted when my phone refreshed when i started that reply.
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