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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 05:31 PM
  #16  
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Well this would solve my harness problem. read post 26 and 35
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...on-help-2.html

Plus save me some money as I just bought my coil and ignition wires. $130 and cost of harness.

All I would need is distributor and GM module. Jimsrebel has been running this combo for years with no problems. Will do more reasearch.
 
 
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 06:37 PM
  #17  
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Let me know what you decide to do. Was out at the junk yard today but they closed at 4 and I pulled in at 3:55, so didn't actually get to go in. If you still want it, I'll head back out tomorrow and take a look. I'm good either way.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 08:01 PM
  #18  
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May go the GM way so will hold out on harness for now. But thanks for keeping me in mind .
 
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Old Mar 3, 2013 | 09:39 AM
  #19  
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No prob. Good luck with it!
 
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Old Mar 3, 2013 | 01:00 PM
  #20  
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I am still running in the same GM 4 pin module, works great.

Here are some good reads..... JIM


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...gnition-3.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-anywhere.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10632947
 
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Old Mar 3, 2013 | 08:50 PM
  #21  
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Well would feel like a fool if I didnt try the GM HEI ignition module.

Ive just purchased a new TFI coil and ign wires November. The wires where Ford and all had 1986 stamped on them I guess they did that years ago if they where not original they sure looked it. Bought a new coil for the same reason plus the fact the location told me this would be a problem to replace and got them to do it during certifacation of van. Even on the hoist it took the mechanic some time and sighed relief when done.

So would have to dump these new parts .. buy replacements and find and pay for a harness . Will have to buy the dizzy either way and a $20 module . So why wouldent I try this first ? Members here running this for years with no problems .. Biggest issue seems to be keeping module cool with a heatsink and thats not an issue.

Only fault Ive heard of was from this thread and not sure if I read it right..Is there a problem here or did I read it wrong . ?

The Ford (use Motorcaraft only) Duraspark II modules are very good because they have a spark retard function for easier starting when hot.

Is it possible the GM module could be a problem on hot starts. I probably read it wrong as Ive heard no complaints..from the little research Iv done.

Jim ..have read all your posts on the subject and was hoping you where still here, Im still using feedback as yourself and your posts helped me make my decission.
I think one post I read said you had all the parts for a complete ford conversion but assume you havent got around to it yet as your current setup is working fine..is that a fair statement.?
I like the picture of your setup ..how long have you been using this setup ? Must be 4 years ? Any problems at all ?

Not sure if you read all posts but this van is running great and if I get 15mpg this summer may not do a thing. But if I do will start a new thread and hope your still around.

Too all of you
What would we do without you .
When I got the van certified there where 6 mechanics in the shop..yes 6.
Not one knew what a feedback carb was. Was at Hotspots autoparts and asked 2 employees about the feedback..they never heard of it . So lets not even mention ignition system..the guy who installed my coil had never seen one like it .What would I have done without the members of this board..tell me. And from reading all the posts that I have I know Im not the only one that feels this way.. Cheers to all of you.


 
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 07:21 PM
  #22  
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I am still here, just not online much due to working 2 jobs.

The spark retard is only 2 deg, not sure how much difference it really makes.

If you have slow cranking and kick back issues when the engine is HOT you could also just switch to the newer PMGR starter, it spins faster and uses less current. The newer engines use these. I switched starters and was really surprised at the improvement

I have been using the GM 4 pin module for 3-4 years with out any problems... with the feedback carb. And yes I have collected enough stuff to do the DS2 swap... but don't see the point as nothing will improve. My only motivation to change ANYTHING is better gas mileage.

Good luck, Jim

starter info
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-opinions.html
 
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Old Mar 6, 2013 | 05:23 PM
  #23  
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Have a feeling the hot starts wont be a problem but will replace with PMGR when need be.

Any MPG estimate before and after your upgrade.?
Did you have any of the symptoms before upgrade..black smoke, ping , lack of power etc ? I have none of these thats whats confuses me . But have a feeling my MPG will suck and if so will do the conversion.

Thanks

 
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Old Mar 6, 2013 | 07:22 PM
  #24  
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I always had trouble passing emissions testing, it was always right on the edge.I replaced the carb because at idle I could see fuel coming out the accelerator nozzle in the carb throat. The Carb I bought (new / rebuilt) off ebay was for an early year, maybe an 1985 not really sure,, ran better but I was stuck running without any IGN advance. Took me a few years to figure that out.

So the point is I never did get a clean base line for before and after testing.
I did notice more power with the DS2 Dist swap.
My best gas mileage is 17 mpg at 60-65 mph, that's with a C6 auto, no overdrive.
You should really check your freeway gas mileage on a long trip before you spend money to try and improve it, it might be good enough as is.
Jim
 
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 08:24 PM
  #25  
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Well I finished final wire removal today Fire her up and starts and runs like a rocket . Floor it on the highway and accelerates strong damm it drops to third and accelerates to about 70 before it shifts back to 4th more power than my 76 van thats for sure. Kept an eye on pipe and no black smoke what so ever no backfire..ping..hesitation..etc .. just runs great and am very happy with that.

But after reading these post I know im not done yet . Will get gas milage estimates this summer and even if there decent how can I not try to improve . At under $150 can do ignition swap [ And can purchase parts in my own country ] wow .lol

Even if I gained only 1 or 2 mpg it would pay for cost of swap in little time with the price of fuel . Not to mention knowing the motor would be running at its full potential . Well almost .. the carb thing is another story.

it might be good enough as is.


Well that would be to good to be true..will see. If not your option has given me new hope .
Thanks to all for a very informative thread..

Partsremoved2_zpsdc88c32b.jpg Photo by wannavan | Photobucket
 
 
 
 
 
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 08:03 PM
  #26  
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Not having any luck at all with ignition swap. No spark.. Before I get into details would like to know one thing.

I have a 12 volt tester and have power to pos and neg from coil on chevy ignition moduale [B and C posts] But no power to other end of moduale to distributor [post G and W] Have ignition on of course. Even crank engine and no power to other side of moduale. Dont know anything about testing electrical componants so take it easy on me. Should I not read power on other side of moduale ? Have bought 2 moduales and possibly both faulty ? Or I fried them during install ? Or Im using wrong tester and moduale is fine ? Dont know.
Thanks
 
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 10:20 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by wannavan
Not having any luck at all with ignition swap. No spark.. Before I get into details would like to know one thing.

I have a 12 volt tester and have power to pos and neg from coil on chevy ignition moduale [B and C posts] But no power to other end of moduale to distributor [post G and W] Have ignition on of course. Even crank engine and no power to other side of moduale. Dont know anything about testing electrical componants so take it easy on me. Should I not read power on other side of moduale ? Have bought 2 moduales and possibly both faulty ? Or I fried them during install ? Or Im using wrong tester and moduale is fine ? Dont know.
Thanks
Nothing on the Dist side with a test light is normal.
The Dist signal voltage is to small to see with a test light.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 10:21 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by wannavan
Not having any luck at all with ignition swap. No spark.. Before I get into details would like to know one thing.

I have a 12 volt tester and have power to pos and neg from coil on chevy ignition moduale [B and C posts] But no power to other end of moduale to distributor [post G and W] Have ignition on of course. Even crank engine and no power to other side of moduale. Dont know anything about testing electrical componants so take it easy on me. Should I not read power on other side of moduale ? Have bought 2 moduales and possibly both faulty ? Or I fried them during install ? Or Im using wrong tester and moduale is fine ? Dont know.
Thanks
Some things to check:
Dist and module and coil case are all grounded.
12v full current to B+ on module (no resistor or resistor wire for HEI)
Module is grounded to heatsink with the 2 bolts (use thermal compound too)

To test the dist p/u (purple and orange wires, ground connected), set a digital volt meter to AC voltage and spin distributor, should get over 2 vac to fire module.
That's the only voltage you will see for W and G wires.

For retarded starting:
Don't worry about it unless it becomes a problem.
GM had a 5 pin module that you can wire a manual switch to in the cab to retard it ~10° for hard starting.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 03:36 PM
  #29  
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Thanks Jim wont waste my time perssuing that asI thought it was an issue for sure. I forgot to mention my testlight glows very bright on B post[pos] and very dim on c post [neg] is that normal ?

Will get back to you tiap when I get a volt meter.

Will post parts used and pictures tonight.
Thanks All
 
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 08:04 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by wannavan
Thanks Jim wont waste my time perssuing that asI thought it was an issue for sure. I forgot to mention my testlight glows very bright on B post[pos] and very dim on c post [neg] is that normal ?
Yes that is normal, Jim
 
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