I'm pretty sure the computer is in fact smart enough to realize the selanoid your speaking of is or isn't connected, as it has been disconnected prior to tonight since I purchased the truck back in April. Prior to April since I Traded for the truck it has just ran, nothing fancy, it got from point A to point B no problems, and not having power, not having throttle responce, not having erratic acceleration I assumed was nothing more then just the engine, this is my first 300 so I had no idea, my father hasn't owned a 300 in 30 years so he wasn't able to speak in reference to this particular engine. So I ASSUMED this is what the ngine was suppose to run. Runs like a 4 cylinder in my wife's car and well that's not the case of the way this engine should run!!

After Googling and finding this particular thread, and reading and understanding a bit more about this "feedback" carburetor it got me interested in finding out further what my problems were rather then just chocking it up as an engine that just doesn't perform as well as what everyone says it should!! I have spent if not hundred hours researching here online I haven't spent 2 minutes researching about this truck and engine, and form all I have read and from all associates this is a baddazzzz engine when it is running right!
With that being said: I opted to hook the selanoid back up on the right side of the carburetor to see what would happen, and wow was I impressed! This engine ran hotter faster and tons of throttle responce, no hesitation, no skips in the idle, and I have yet to of spun out (chirped) my tires and well innocently I did spin out in a left hand curve and spun the tires to the point of hearing it in the cab before I backed off the throttle!! WOW WAS I IMPRESSED... this truck is running the way it should! The way I have heard so many brag about! It's running like a pissed bumble bee!
I'm still blowing black smoke but it doesn't smell like gasoline anymore but tons of wet black smoke.. I had a neighbor hold a peice of white cardboard in front of my tailpipe to get an exhaust sample, and it was wet, splattered, black sluggy looking stuff splattered all over the cardboard. It was so wet it was running off the cardboard, but it didn't smell like gasoline as it has done in previous exhaust tests ( been doing this test for months now) So I want to assume that a portion of my problems are resolved! But I still got an issue if I have wet sludgy black crap spaying out the exhaust tailpipe!

I also opted to undo the rigging that was done to disable the choke, the choke has been disabled since day one, held in the fully open position with 4 zip ties. Hoping that since my luck seems to be working out with hooking up the selenoid and that curing a little bit of my issues, I htought why not go ahead and see if the choke is actually functional since the previous owner unplugged the selenoid and it "MAYBE" infact is operational, lets see if the choke is as well!

Story behind this carburetor is that the man and his father I got the truck from done a complete engine, transmission, rear-end, and front end rebuild! And they did a great job and didn't leave many things untouched.. Well the father got trransferrred to Oklahoma City OK. and the son left behind, well son no longer possessed any interest in the truck since it was a father-son project and now father is out of the picture. Son stopped in his tracks rebolted old carburetor up (one of the few things that didn't get replaced before father left) and sold it as it sat. Well I traded a 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan w/236,000 miles on it and needed a complete front end rebuild ($600.00) done before it was safe to be on the road. EVEN UP This was an even up trade, I was extactic that I was getting this truck with so many new parts, new engine, transmission, rear-end, front end in exchange for my POS minivan.
Well i want to thank everyone for your help and kind assistance in helping me with this issue. I have many others I would like to present to this forum but I don't want to use all my free help passes. So I will stick to this topic and say again thank each and evryone of you that do offer assistance with this topic! And thank you forum builder for offering us a place to hang out and become educated, I was a member with my old name but couldn't find out the password to access the account, so I started a new one! But I am very glad to be here!

 

U ain't done yet, dooood. Not if THAT is still comin out the tail pipe...Did I miss sompin, misread?

 

Due to financial, I will make my first attempt by replacing the carburetor ( the carburetor that belongs on the 83, that's the first step), next step will be the Duraspark conversion!
I have read many many more posts in regards to the Duraspark set up and what I am getting is that I will need visit my junkyard to get my parts..
My question for this is : is that my Advanced Auto parts guy is able to sell me the whole setup with new parts.. why would I want to use junk yard parts when I can get the entire setup new for right at a $100.00 bucks off the store shelf?
Distributor-w/cap and button, coil, control module. Why would I want used worn junk yard parts ~VS~ brand new off the shelf parts?

Another issue that has risen during my research is this "GM HEI " so many say leave it alone while so many others applaud the idea? If I have become educated enough this HEI conversion will replace the control module, (but their will be a sacrifice for doing this conversion and that I will loose start-up timing retarder that is built in to the control module) saving me yet an additional $20 bucks for this entire Duraspark conversion, while I am in a position on a tight budget I am not wanting to half-bass this step in my project. I want to do it right, While not being concerned with keeping it stock looking.
Yes I know doing it right means getting my Feedback carburetor rebuilt or buying a remanufactured carburetor, But I don't want to spend that much money for the risk of it not even being right! I hope I am making sense, I am not afraid to spend money to do it right, but I don't see the need in spending $400-$600 for the manufacturer specified carburetor when I can go with a 83 model carburetor for $125.00 and do a brand new store shelf DuraSpark conversion for another $100.oo bucks total cost $225.. this makes more sense in my book financially while not wanting to do a half-bassed job! I'm not a penny pincher, just which ever route I choose to take it will have to be done slowly. A part at a time, as it can be afforded without starving my family in the process!
I love my truck and this should be my last truck for a long time. I just want everything to be right on it, and in some form that I can still work on it myself, and not have to relay on folks to help with an issue every time it arrises! I do enjoy educating myself with all the knowledge that is offered on these message boards, this one fully loaded with some of the best knowledge I have yet to of received and I am glad to be part of it, I just don't want to have to spend 20 hours a day for 3-4 days of researching to answer my own questions, out of fear that I might upset someone for asking same questions, or posting off someone elses thread (thread-jacking) posting in the wrong spot! If I can keep this truck simple enough for me to continue to work on it then my goal will be accomplished of having a awesome looking, awesome running truck in the years to come with very little maintenance required. I love turning wrenches been doing it all of my life, almost a passion, but I get scared when I charter to unknown territory with different issues as they arrise!

I think santa clause is bring me a piece of modern technology for Christmas, an Air Compressor, I have been recieving for 4 years now tools that require the use of an air compressor and the gifts just keep bringing me new air compressed tools, all these years but to of yet to have an actual air compressor to run the tools!! While rebuilding my daughters car that she wrecked I opted to open my mouth and mention that it would be nice to have some new tools, or atleast an air compressor to run all the new tools in the closet.. I think my hints are working!!!

I am the family mechanic, the only one with exception to my dads pre-1990 knowledge ( as soon as computers come in to the picture he gave up on cars and keeping up with the mechanics of them and continues to buy pre-1990 vehicles as that's all he can work on.
I have a total of 9 vehicles I am responsible for, and let me tell ya I always have the hood up on something around here, and almost always have something to do around here vehicle based, very rarely am I or do I become stumped! And it is great to have a place like this to get help when I do become stumped!

 

In response to current issues causing me to make the DuraSpark-new carburetor changes the wet, thick, splattering black crap out of the tailpipe, My dad come over today to try to help , and has suggested that since the electronics of the carburetor were disconnected and the computer defaulted to the rich mix, and the 10 degrees before top dead center that my engine was all gummed up with carbon. So what I am blowing out of the pipe now was nothing more then carbon build up that was in the engine.. I no longer have the smell of raw gasoline in my exhaust (which is a big relief) But I do still have black smoke on throttle, and while revving.
Dad also suggested that since computer sent everything to default (10 degrees BTDC, and rich burn mix) that my plugs were probably fowled! Well they were BADLY (extreme carbon build up on the, I'm surprised they even fired in the condition they were in)not to mention not a 2 of the plugs had the same gap, the gap ranges varied from .040---.050 so for a temporary fix I re-gaped all plugs, and I just cleaned them with emory cloth just till I get my check tomorrow then I will them with Motor Craft plugs and get them properly gaped (.042-.046) So new plugs tomorrow! Oh yeah the truck just keeps getting better with every little thing I do to it! It is running a 100 times better then it ever has!

The way I see everything happening is this
1: new carburetor
2: new/used DuraSpark Conversion ( and no HEI conversion)
3: new plugs, wires
4:XF5 transmission swap
5: regear in the back current 4:10's possible change to 3:55's
6: anything else I can do to make this truck the way it should be!!
The ZF5 transmission install, a J/Y buddy of mine has offered me a ZF5 for $500 or $200 plus my T-18, this sounds like a great deal all around for me! The ZF5 is a 49,000 miles transmission on a truck that was crushed by a tree, of course the truck died prematurally leaving a perfect condition transmission under the frame undamaged!
Can I expect to gain 5 mpg increase by upgrading to a ZF5 5 speed transmission? Is this actually possible? I average between 9 (with boat or camper attached) and 16 on 100% highway trips That would put me in the 20's mpg range with this new transmission!! And the 15 mpg range while dragging the boat or camper, wow this would be exciting if it worked out that way!!

IF YOU SEE I AM DOING THIS WRONG PLEASE GUIDE ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION, I AM OK WITH BEING CORRECTED OR SET IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION I DON'T TAKE OFFENSE TO CRITIQUE.

 

The only thing you really need at the junk yard is a wiring harness; this will be the hardest part to find. More info here…..

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-anywhere.html

When at the junk yard look for a Motorcraft DS2 module or a NAPA TP-40 module.
These are much better than the cheap no name parts at the auto store. Also the junk yard will most likely not charge as much for the DS2 harness is you buy both parts. The TP-40 cost over $80 new.

The first step is finding the harness.

Auto zone has a new Dist w cap & rotor for $72… no core charge
I just got a reman Dist at Napa for about $45, but you will have to buy the cap (2 piece cap) and rotor also so it will add up about the same, just be sure they will take your old Dist in exchange (core). I WOULD NOT buy a junk yard distributor as my junk yard charges $25 for an old worn out part and a reman is only $45.

Jim

 

Thank you for the links Jim, I have been reading and found my way to a link which led me to the Carburetor King website, and they have my Feedback carburetor for $159.00 I have ben pricing these things between $400, and $600 bucks, I was estatic to phone them and find out it really was infact the carburetor I need for my truck, this throws a wrench in my plans and the way I was planning to do things, with this carburetor being only $159.00 ($200 total cost shipping and hazmat fees) I would be a fool not to go ahead and install the factory spesified carburetor back on my truck, No way I can beat this price going with the 83 carburetor and converting everything over to a DuraSpark system.. Just hope all works out well using these guys But I am pretty sure I am going to go with this program instead of the 83 carburetor, and the DuraSpark system upgrades, Unless someone see's it fit for me to continue the same way I have planned w/using the 83 carburetor and the DuraSpark system! Thanks I need stopped before tomorrow morning when I will make the purchase with the Carburetor King!

 

But then again....... As I am sitting here I am thinking of going ahead and making the Duraspark--83 Carburetor swap! I am interested in making these changes. Not sure if I have anything to gain form doing this change! Maybe a better looking engine compartment, But I don't think I am going to have any other useful reason other then getting rid of the computer crap that I do truely hate-dislike!

Where do you stand?

 

The only reason to get rid of the current IGN system is the high cost of replacement part and/or trouble keeping it working. Maybe next month it will be the O2 sensor that needs replaced... or maybe it will just work like it just left the factory.... it is really a tough call to make.

$159 for a feedback carb seems to good to be true.

I did buy my current feedback carb of Ebay for about $60 with shipping and it was a rebuilt one in a box. It did not have a TPS on it so I still ending up with a DS2 dist and a GM 4 pin module as it was always running with fixed timing. The Ebay carb purchase was an impluse buy before I knew what I really needed.
Good luck
Jim

 

Yes too good to be true is the way I feel about it!! I seen the link on a page you posted to, while reading all the posts on the link you posted their was a link to Carburetor King

Here's the address if you wanna check it out! I mean no doubt if it is infact correct and these Feedback Carburetors are infact properly rebuilt it be worth the money for other Feed-Backers, to consider buying one!
Ford Truck Carburetors CARBURETOR KING PART NUMBER ND1532

CARBURETOR : $159.00
SHIPPING : $29.95 (INCLUDES RETURN SHIPPING FOR THE CORE)
FL. HAZMAT FEE : $11.05 (STATE OF FLORIDA REQUIRES THE BUILDER TO CHARGE THIS FEE)
TOTAL : $200.00
CORE CHARGE : $40.00 (UNTIL CORE IS PROCESSED)

GRAND TOTAL : $240.00 BILLING COST TILL REFUND OF CORE

I SPOKE WITH THIS COMPANY ON THE PHONE AND PUMPING THEM FOR INFORMATION THEY HAVE 76 CORES WAITING TO BE BUILT, THEY REQUIRE 3 DAY BUILD TIME, AND 2 DAYS SHIPMENT TIME. UPON MY PAYMENT THEY WILL START THE BUILD OF ND1532, AND WHEN MY CORE ARRIVES IT WILL GO IN STOCK.
But they do not have this carburetor ready to ship on the spot, upon payment completion!

 

Going ahead with Duraspark conversion

I recently purchased an air cleaner from an Ebay'er and after many different emails of communications, and discussing my wanted future intentions ( going with DuraSpark) The folks I purchased the air cleaner from are sending me a Dura Spark complete wiring harness, for FREE, yes infact free! They told me to consider it a Christmas present from them and to pass it along! As I will surely do!
Well they wanted $10.00 more for all the conversion parts then what they were going to cost me new from Rock Auto, so I told them I won't be needing the parts as I will get them new for less money!

Now this won't be completed immediately but definately in the immediate near future! But I can't wait to see and hear this new conversion completed on my truck.
I will be checking back at a later time for more information on the process of removing the computer and wiring harness and all the "Feed-Back" garbage off my truck. And installing the new DuraSpark system in my truck.

I was looking through Ebay for a carburetor for my truck after the conversion , and I ran across a NOS Ford 75 1976 1977 78 Carter YF 1 Barrel Carburetor (Ebay item number #200528711478) . Just wondering if this carburetor will be compatible for my truck once the Dura-Spark conversion has been completed? Is their a difference between the 1975-1978 Carter YF carburetors, and the 1983 Carter YF carburetor I have been priced from Advanced Auto for $125.00? If this carburetor is compatible for my truck then I can get a NOS brand new carburetor for $95.00 and that is a big price difference ~vs~ a remanufactured 1983 model Carter YF. Just wondering. If it will work!

Thanks guys and Gals I do appreciate the help!

 

That's awesome on the wiring harness! That's pretty much the only thing you need to find, the rest can be purchased new. Awesome!

As for the carburetor, that looks like it could work. Looks a lot like the one that was on my Bronco when I got it.

If anyone knows any reasons why not (such as bolt spacing, cfm differences, etc), I'm sure they'll chime in.

 

I looked at the carb on Ebay ... I am not sure it is for a 300ci engine as they list many cars that i dont think had a 300ci engine. It might be for a smaller 6.

 

Thank You all for chiming in, after re-reviewing the listing again I don't think it will work for my application either, I didn't find any listing in the description for the 300 either. That sucks but oh well, I just got all excited when I seen NOS brand new carburetor for sale !! But I will keep searching I just might find a NOS carburetor laying around somewhere but if I don't then a Remanufactured is still cheap enough for me!