6.4L Power Stroke Diesel Engine fitted to 2008 - 2010 F250, F350 and F450 pickup trucks and F350 + Cab Chassis

injector replacement?? p0263 p0278

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Old 02-21-2013, 05:05 PM
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injector replacement?? p0263 p0278

My truck has been misfiring if you let it idle longer than 2-3 min. From what im reading I have a couple bad injectors and possibly an EGR cooler leaking. Has anyone replaced injectors without pulling the cab or moror? Any other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.

2008 F250 H&S tuner, DPF delete and an intake.
 
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Old 02-21-2013, 07:09 PM
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You can do the injectors without the cab removal. Before I did that though I would invest in a diagnostic eval of the injectors and wiring using fords IDS.

Coolant leaks you did not give any additional info.
 
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Old 02-21-2013, 08:59 PM
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I have noticed the coolant level is a little lower than it has been. What other info you wanting to know?
 
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:36 PM
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leaking egr coolers are knowen to bend #8 rod on this engine. the engine does a good job hiding it too.
injectors can be replace pretty easly with the cab on. iirc warranty time is 5-6 hours for all 8
 
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:14 PM
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How do I go about checking that? Motor runs strong as long as I dont let it idle too long.
 
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:25 PM
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Injector diag on a 6.4L can either be diagnosed during cold engine startup with the weak cylinder compensation strategy disabled, just like it's done on a 6.0L to pinpoint 'low' cylinders, or by monitoring individual fuel trims at idle. As far as changing them out goes, the cab does not need to be removed. If you are brave enough to decide to attempt changing them out yourself, just bear in mind that the torque specs for both flare fittings to the injector as well as the hold-down need to be followed EXACTLY to the tee. Another caution is with regard to the plastic heater hose tubes on each side of the engine. They do break easily, which if you do, you'll be having a very bad day changing those out as well.
 
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by m-chan68
Injector diag on a 6.4L can either be diagnosed during cold engine startup with the weak cylinder compensation strategy disabled, just like it's done on a 6.0L to pinpoint 'low' cylinders, or by monitoring individual fuel trims at idle. As far as changing them out goes, the cab does not need to be removed. If you are brave enough to decide to attempt changing them out yourself, just bear in mind that the torque specs for both flare fittings to the injector as well as the hold-down need to be followed EXACTLY to the tee. Another caution is with regard to the plastic heater hose tubes on each side of the engine. They do break easily, which if you do, you'll be having a very bad day changing those out as well.
Thanks for the info. That sounds like ill have to take it to the stealership for that.
 
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Old 02-22-2013, 05:05 AM
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For what is involved and everything I'd pay the diagonstics and go from there. I will the better route then just changing them yourself unless you are setup with a warm garage and the tools.
 
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Old 02-22-2013, 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by senix
For what is involved and everything I'd pay the diagonstics and go from there. I will the better route then just changing them yourself unless you are setup with a warm garage and the tools.
I do have a heated garage with lift if I do it myself. Ill just have to have the dealership tell me whats wrong
 
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Old 02-22-2013, 06:34 AM
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One other thing...you said you were loosing coolant (minor). You could do a OA and see if you have any coolant in your oil.

While you are in there doing injectors check those hoses next to the motor. The o-rings on the orginal style hoses are just a single o-ring and they will leak.

Updated ones are double o-rings and work well. End of the hoses on the new style are white.
 
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Old 02-22-2013, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by senix
One other thing...you said you were loosing coolant (minor). You could do a OA and see if you have any coolant in your oil.

While you are in there doing injectors check those hoses next to the motor. The o-rings on the orginal style hoses are just a single o-ring and they will leak.

Updated ones are double o-rings and work well. End of the hoses on the new style are white.
Good point. I have never had an OA done before. I have been kicking around the idea of trading it in on a new one or dumping money into this one. I dont wanna keep chasing problems.
 
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