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I'm in the process of repairing / re-splicing / replacing my electrical harness in my 1965 f100, I purchased the wiring diagram and though I am color blind I've made it through most of issues and I'm heading down the home stretch. Just the following issues I'm trying to resolve.
1. A 1970 Lincoln 460 (best I can tell) was transplanted into the truck and some of the wires got cut, I'm trying to figure out what / where the alternator dummy light wire ties in under the hood, everything looks good behind the cluster but I can't figure out the wiring diagram on this.
2. I installed an after market mechanical temperature gauge, it came with it's own sensor and metal lead which I installed, it's accurate and works great but the original temperature gauge in the instrument panel on the truck has electrical leads, is there anyway to hook it up and make both gauges work or is it one or the other depending on the sensor installed?
3. Same thing with the oil pressure dummy light, I installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge, works well but is there a way to still get the electric oil pressure dummy light in the cluster to work.
Both of my 1966 F250 4x4s came with the extra gauges. With this setup you get the idiot lights and the gauges for both AMP and OIL. For the oil pressure they use a separate piece that screws into the block and both senders screw into it. Similar for both the 352 and the 300 six. I'll take some pics and post them so you can see what I'm talking about.
Did some research and found one possible solution, you can put a tee fitting in the oil sending unit hole and then thread in two different sending units. It's also possible to thread a small fitting for the mechanical device into the electric sending unit but it can be tough to make sure it won't leak.
Did some research and found one possible solution, you can put a tee fitting in the oil sending unit hole and then thread in two different sending units. It's also possible to thread a small fitting for the mechanical device into the electric sending unit but it can be tough to make sure it won't leak.
That's correct, swapped 302 for 6cyl. and added P/S, and electric oil pressure gauge and kept the idiot light. Measured and found that a 2.5" straight pipe cleared the block and with a 'T' connector both sending units nestled nicely between the P/S unit, and oil filter. Connecting the electrical gauge was just a matter of running a separate single wire from the sending unit to the gauge and then tieing into the CVR circuit. If should consider, make sure the pipe is steel and not copper!! Imagine it's a personal preferrence, I like having both??
1. A 1970 Lincoln 460 (best I can tell) was transplanted into the truck and some of the wires got cut, I'm trying to figure out what / where the alternator dummy light wire ties in under the hood, everything looks good behind the cluster but I can't figure out the wiring diagram on this.
the dummy light should go to the "I" terminal on the voltage regulator.
Originally Posted by likeagoodbook
2. I installed an after market mechanical temperature gauge, it came with it's own sensor and metal lead which I installed, it's accurate and works great but the original temperature gauge in the instrument panel on the truck has electrical leads, is there anyway to hook it up and make both gauges work or is it one or the other depending on the sensor installed?
You can use a "T" fitting here, but keep in mind...now *neither* gauge is directly in the coolant stream, which will affect accuracy.
Originally Posted by likeagoodbook
3. Same thing with the oil pressure dummy light, I installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge, works well but is there a way to still get the electric oil pressure dummy light in the cluster to work.
I'd use a T here, the accuracy of a pressure gauge should not be affected.
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