Hey guys its been a little bit, but now I come to you all with a new question and a new truck! I'm working with a 1976 F150 4x4 .. The engine is a 460, and from what I've been told its built up a little bit. From just driving it from picking it up, to my home "aprox 25-30 miles" it's got some *****! Lifted with 37s doesn't have a problem spinning them swampers in second gear.

I drove it home by starting the truck in gear and hard shifting into higher gears.

I do not know the year of the engine, so that makes it difficult. The trans looks like and even still has the ID tag on it and so it's a stock NP435.

Now with the issue.
I was told.. It was a throw out bearing.. Now.. From what I hear, feel, see etc.. I can't rule out a clutch it self. I don't hear anything, I don't feel anything unusual, and don't see anything.. The pedal doesn't stay at the floor. When u press it in it will come back to the normal position.

With my question.
What throw out bearing do I need, or should I get? What size clutch should I buy? If i even need one.. I don't know anything about it and I figure before tear into this I would buy the parts I need. Why not buy a new clutch along with throw out bearing? I have read that usually it's an 11" clutch but you can get a 12".. Is there a difference in the clutches with the years of the 460 engine? Same question with the throw out bearing..

Also, if you might know.. What year is the engine?

I wrote down all I could see on the engine and still am confused as to the year it is..

On the block is "6F22R"stamped on the front of the engine block. Coasted on the front of the block is a "101" and a "11" Behind the started is casted I believe "DIVE-8015-A2E"

On the heads are casted number " D2VEAA" other head is "D2VE-A2A"

Any info you guys have is greatly appreciated!
Thank you in advance!!

 

Ok, go figure after I post I find out the year engine. It's a 1971 out of a Lincoln. The heads are 1972.. So if I wanted to order parts I would order them for that model year and make?

 

I don't think the Lincoln Continental came with a standard trans. Whatever the transmission came out of, go with that. BTW, if you change the disc and pressure plate you should have the flywheel turned at the same time.

 

The casting numbers won't necessarily tell you what kind of vehicle or year they came from. All the 429 and 460s used in all the cars from 71-early 79 had the D1VE block casting number.

BUT in your case, the D2VE heads were ONLY used in 72 so you have a 72 passenger car motor.

For reference, the casting number vehicle id (in this case it says linclon) only tells you what the engine was ORIGINALLY designed for, not what it was put into.

 

Huh, this sounds all too familiar. I am guessing you bought the truck from someone who swapped the 460 in, right? So basically you just inherited someone's issues that they either could not figure out or didn't want to mess with anymore. I dealt with the same thing on my truck. First thing you need to do, is confirm that the throwout arm is moving when you press on the clutch pedal. I know you said that you can press it to the floor, but the whole linkage assembly will torque and move but not depress the fingers on your clutch. I would recommend safely jacking the back end off the ground, starting it and have someone look at the clutch fork as you press the clutch pedal in to see if it actually is moving or if its the linkage moving and flexing. If the clutch ford is moving, you might try adjusting the rod that presses on the throwout arm. It may just need to be adjusted. However, if arm does not move and its the linkage moving, you have a real issue on your hands. I would guess whoever installed the motor used the wrong flywheel. When I did my truck (79 f-250 4x4) I tried using a flywheel for a mid 80s 460 since my motor is externally balanced like the mid 80s trucks. Did not work and ended with the same results as you. Could not shift at all and truck was stuck in gear. If you are using a bellhousing from a 351M/400, there is not enough room for the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, and clutch fork, so everything ends up getting bound up (mostly a throwout bearing issue. To fix this, I would recommend pulling the motor and buying the L&L flywheel and clutch kit. Expensive but works well. That is what I ended up doing on my truck. For your motor, you need a flywheel for an internally balanced motor. Hope this helps.

 

Awesome feedback and info! Well, first I was "told" the swap took place 4+ years ago. Not sure if it was his swap or the person before him but I see your point. I assumed it was possible and tried to prepaid for the worst as in taking on someone else's issue. Isn't that the case most times anyways? "Someone else's problem"

Not sure what bell housing is being used, .. "Best way to identify?"

With a different flywheel, how many teeth does it have to be. I keep reading that the 176 tooth is better due to the fact of finding a starter, if I need too. The owner put in a new starter vary recently.

Seeing is the trans is from the stock truck "360" than wouldn't they have used the stock flywheel. wouldnt that work? That should be 176 tooth and wouldn't need to be machined? Machining the extra weight is just taking it from a externally balanced to internally balanced.. Correct?

With this kit, " L&L Products " I wouldn't have pilot bearing issues? Something to do with two different holes on the crankshaft..

Again thanks for the info!!

Should I pull the starter and count the teeth on the flywheel? Maybe just to be sure what type flywheel it is.

 

I see. I guess another way to look at it is has someone has been driving it like that for 4 years? I really doubt it. Anyways, the bellhousing has a casting number on it just like the block or heads do, however I doubt you can read it while its in the truck. If I remember correctly it should be at the top of the bell next to the to bolt holes. But, I believe it would safe to say that if it is mechanical linkage and not hydraulic you have the 351/400 bellhousing because they didn't actually put manual transmissions in trucks until like '83 I think. I'm not 100% on the flywheel teeth count but I think 168 and the FE motors ring gear will work. You should be able to re-use your starter. I did with mine. They might have used the stock flywheel, but I'm pretty sure they would have had to have it machined. Not sure on that one either. Basically you need to pull the motor either way if the problem is not the clutch adjustment. No issues with pilot bearing. Just use pilot bearing for a 302 and put it in the deepest part of the crank.

 

Big john, One other thing to look at is the support for the engine side of the clutch linkage shaft, early 460s did not have a place on the block for a clutch shaft ball, how is it mounted and also there are 3 different clutch forks. Also the fulcrum bracket for the fork could have broken. I once had to add a flat washer under each clutch mounting bolt to get the clutch to release because of the thickness of the clutch disk. Just a few things that I have encountered over the years. Good luck, Kenny

 

I was told it had recently went out.. But of course it hasn't been drivin this way for vary long.. Talk about one big pain..

It is mechanical indeed

And it doesn't look like the fork is bent..

I will check a few things out that you mentioned though.

 

Big john, It is not easy but it is possible to loosen the clutch cover bolts through the fork opening and install the washers one at a time by cutting a slot on each one so that you do not have to remove the respective bolt. This is worth the effort if it keeps you from removing the engine or transmission. The pictures make it appear that the linkage parts are in good shape. Good luck, Kenny