Other than being XM ready and having HD radio built in, I don't see any major differences to justify the 140 dollar price difference. They are both 2013 units, they are the same chassis from what I can tell. I dont get much if any HD radio where I live and I use a Starmate across multiple vehicles. Is there something other than that I'm missing?

 

the new one looks like it has a cooler interface lol.

 

I'll stick with the 4500 ,just dug around the Pioneer support stuff and a few video reviews, they are the same firmware/interface according to everything that I can find, so I can do with out HD/XM support.

Thanks.

/Resume normal thread programming.

 

I bought my avic-940bt in the summer and it got stolen in september. I wish i would have waited for the new models to come since i have an iphone 5. and the interface between the 940 and 950 looks night and day to me.

 

the big problem with iPhone5 is the special cables that are required for full app functionality, a combination of 3 cables/adapters as it needs the video out, and an even newer firmware update, I'm gonna stick with USB and bluetooth for now for my iPhone5. ~180.00 worth of cables and the firmware update isn't even ready yet, and the pioneer part of the cable package is still listed as "coming"

 

Yeah thats what i was just looking at, I'm gonna use my old iphone 4 as an "ipod" and when i stream pandora just keep doing it over bluetooth.

 

WHERE did you get that seat back?!?!

 

I'm running a Kenwood Excelon head unit, Kenwood 6x9's in the doors, 2 10" Phoenix Gold's in a box in the back and a

I ran the USB in the panel by the cig lighter - you can just barely see it in the pic:


I haven't really finalized the location of the amps...until I do they are on the storage box near the inverter:


I ran 1/0 gauge from the battery under the passenger side frame to the inverter, then piggybacked off of the inverter wiring posts. Part of why I haven't finalized the amp location yet - that's some big wiring that I need to route.

The 2nd Kenwood amp goes to a low end 'rumbler' under the driver seat. The 10's are a bit small for our rigs, but 12's or 15's would take up more room than I'd like, so the rumbler covers the low end nicely and the 10's cover the audible sound.

 

im gonna be running a flush mount usb extansion from my decks usb port. im thingking of either mounting it beside the powerpoint on the dash or more likely hidden in the front console underneath the front side of the cup holders so you can charge phones etc and store in the cup holders.
how did you run 1/0 from your frame rail inside your vehicle? im thinking of doing a similar thing and will be using battery feeder studs to ensure a waterproof seal

 

I recently installed a Kenwood DNX-9990HD head unit and a CMOS-310 backup camera. The unit was super expensive so I found a factory refurbished one for half the sticker price.

It's got just about everything you would want in a deck short of multiple disc. CarToys wanted almost $3k installed. I did it for under $1k my self using the refurbished deck and a brand new camera both off eBay.

I want as much room as I can get for storage and a sub takes too much room up. I wont be adding or switching any speakers out unless they are broken. What I did instead was bought an $8 can of aerosol spray in bed liner and sprayed it on the inside of the door panels behind the speakers where you would put dynomat. IMO it works as good as dynomat because you can get into corners and over tubes better. I had an 86' Cutlass that had only 200W worth of subs in the trunk and it sounded like 1000W+. The entire body (inside) and frame was sprayed in bed-liner and it made a world of difference. Also, I've had a ton of aftermarket speakers and nothing seems to sound as good as stock with bed liner. Aftermarket gets way louder, but doesn't have the richness unless you go with a true High Mid Low system.
If you want to do an amped system you want to pat attention to the voltage on the pre-outs. You want 5v or more. Cheap and intermediate decks usualy have 2v. The higher the voltage on the outputrs the cleaner the signal your speakers will put out.



You can also have the backup camera where the movie is in this pic.



http://s263.beta.photobucket.com/use...5ce62.mp4.html

 

No pics, brother!

No pics = it didn't happen!

 

Soldered in the copper ends and ran heat-shrink on them:


Re-did the factory connectors as well while I was in there...bought some different post connectors:


NOTE: Before I did this, I had continual corrosion issues at the terminals. Now that I re-did the connectors, no corrosion at all.

Fused the hot side...just fabbed up a 2" aluminum bracket:


Ran it down the fender liner...came out by the rear A/C lines. Followed those back to the back side of the rear passenger door.

Pulled the carpet out, ran two holes and fashioned some hard plastic grommets:


Now I'm inside the cab. This was originally done to power the inverter, then adding the sub was easy. Pondering now the best location for the amp to give it circulation (gets hot here in Sacramento in the summer) while still keeping those massive leads out of the way and not pinched.

Thinking I might seal those holes up though and go with studs under the seat...

 

I don't think I mentioned it has built in Garmin.

I've set it up so I can watch video or backup camera while driving.


It has multiple angles to deflect glare too.

 

You also could run a line driver to combat this. My buddy had a $16 line driver from million buy and it was night and day just by boosting the RCA signal.

 

Still no link, just bold text...