EGR Delete?
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Eastern Iowa
EGR Delete?
Hey all. As of late my 94 Lightning has been throwing CEL for insufficient EGR flow. I considered buying a whole new valve, but most were running $100+. It runs just fine when the CEL is on, maybe even better. I'm considering just doing a delete on it entirely, but for now I'm considering just trying a electronic resistor plug from RJM(link below) to keep the valve closed and keep the CEL off. Does anybody have any experience with these? Or any other recommendations for the delete in general?
RJM Injection Tech — EGR Eliminator
Also, as common courtesy, please don't comment if you are just going to be negative. I don't want to hear any of the "it's illegal, just do it right bs that I've seen a lot of (mostly on other forums). I bought it with no cats and a non functioning smog pump. But I live in Iowa, we don't test, and I don't care to spend the money to make it "legal" . I'm just trying to keep my baby running good on a budget. If you really believe I would be better off with a functioning EGR please comment and explain. I'll definitely give it consideration.
Thanks
Ben
RJM Injection Tech — EGR Eliminator
Also, as common courtesy, please don't comment if you are just going to be negative. I don't want to hear any of the "it's illegal, just do it right bs that I've seen a lot of (mostly on other forums). I bought it with no cats and a non functioning smog pump. But I live in Iowa, we don't test, and I don't care to spend the money to make it "legal" . I'm just trying to keep my baby running good on a budget. If you really believe I would be better off with a functioning EGR please comment and explain. I'll definitely give it consideration.
Thanks
Ben
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The only "running good" benefit of the EGR is if it was designed/tuned to help eliminate detonation. Not sure they were in tune with that in '94. If you can use the resister to keep it closed all the time, you will be able to see in all driving situations if it makes a difference. No diff, pull it and tidy things up maybe, as time allows.
Yea, you're not supposed to fool with that stuff, but hey, like you said, the cats are gone and you have no tests.
IF, IF your state is considering emissions law changes like Utah and Colorado apparently have, it would seem the EGR would be the least of your worries.
Yea, you're not supposed to fool with that stuff, but hey, like you said, the cats are gone and you have no tests.
IF, IF your state is considering emissions law changes like Utah and Colorado apparently have, it would seem the EGR would be the least of your worries.
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From: Eastern Iowa
Alright, had it installed for about a week now, still getting CEL, checked the codes tonight using a jumper wire for KOEO and its no longer for EGR, thank god. but now I have 621(shift solenoid 1 circuit failure) and 654(Manual Lever Position Sensor Indicating Not In Park During Self Test). I'm really only worried about 621, what does shift solenoid 1 do and how serious could this be, if at all?
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From: Winnipeg
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From: Calhoun GA
There is no performance benefit to deleting the egr, and most of the delete (resistor) kits I've seen still throw a CEL. I had one of those on mine many years ago and no CEL at first. A few starts later it came back.
Properly deleting the EGR may require aftermarket tuning turn that function off. Then remove the upper intake and tap the center port in the lower intake and install a pipe plug. Plugging that port will keep the exhaust gases from going through the upper intake and then to the EGR spacer/valve assembly. Then remove and cap/plug the coolant lines that are connected to the spacer. From there you can leave the spacer and valve installed or replace it with an EGR delete spacer.
Properly deleting the EGR may require aftermarket tuning turn that function off. Then remove the upper intake and tap the center port in the lower intake and install a pipe plug. Plugging that port will keep the exhaust gases from going through the upper intake and then to the EGR spacer/valve assembly. Then remove and cap/plug the coolant lines that are connected to the spacer. From there you can leave the spacer and valve installed or replace it with an EGR delete spacer.
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Please read post 4. The discussion has "shifted" to the codes he has now:
"now I have 621(shift solenoid 1 circuit failure) and 654(Manual Lever Position Sensor Indicating Not In Park During Self Test). I'm really only worried about 621, what does shift solenoid 1 do and how serious could this be, if at all?"
He is not getting an EGR code. He has not indicated any difference in performance or running without the EGR. He does not have smog checks. Posts 1 and 2 cover all that.
Any ideas on the shift solenoid and MLPS codes?
"now I have 621(shift solenoid 1 circuit failure) and 654(Manual Lever Position Sensor Indicating Not In Park During Self Test). I'm really only worried about 621, what does shift solenoid 1 do and how serious could this be, if at all?"
He is not getting an EGR code. He has not indicated any difference in performance or running without the EGR. He does not have smog checks. Posts 1 and 2 cover all that.
Any ideas on the shift solenoid and MLPS codes?
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From: Eastern Iowa
It runs just fine with the EGR shut off. I've had it on for over a week now and the code has yet to show up even driving every day. I haven't taken the valve and spacer itself off yet, but thats on my to-do list.
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From: Calhoun GA
If you go so far as to remove the upper intake, the center port of the lower intake can be tapped and will take a 1/2" NPT plug. Run it down so the the shoulder of the plug is flush with the surface of the lower intake. The coolant line that goes to the back of the lower intake, from the factory spacer, can be tapped with a 3/8" NPT pipe plug.
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