When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
What's everyone doing about this and emissions? I know most don't mess with it but I can't help myself. Was DPF on till Sep. last year when stuff "fell" off my truck. I didn't at first run block off plates to monitor egts till November and I was told unplugging the EGR valve wasn't necessary. Fast forward to emissions time and I reverse the "accidental falling off" process. After about 10 miles and no codes, CEL codes of P042E and P0490. Does unplugging do anything since the tuning disables the valve? So I have ordered a new EGR valve hoping that will take care of it. After I get through emissions and this stuff "falls" off again, wondering if 1, I just replace the bad egr valve and keep the good one on the shelf for once a year emissions purposes or 2, do the Egr delete which would be more involved. I think there would be a lot less chance of stripped bolts and breakage going the valve route but curious of y'all's opinions and what if any of you are doing if you're like me and can't leave well enough alone? Thanks fellas!!
If you're going back and forth, probably just leave it in place and electronically disable it. The H&S documentation states that it does not cause undue harm to the engine to leave the EGR componentry attached.
Myself, I wanted to completely eliminate the risk of EGR cooler leakage (I had/have a 6.0L... 'nuff said) and also I noticed that the secondary cooling loop runs at a lower temperature, which probably means the charge-air-cooler runs colder which means it is more effective at cooling the intake air charge. It "unloads" the cooling system if you will.
H&s does say leaving the egr plugged in will cause egr damage, you were running emission disabled and left the egr plugged in for how long??
X 2
I removed my EGR completely but if you are putting it back together and taking it apart regularly I would NOT completely remove the EGR cooler. I would just unplug it. Too difficult to remove and reinstall this part regularly. Once you take it out - I guarantee you are not putting it back on again.
Exactly as said. For you man just do the two block off plates and unplug it. That way it will be just as you want it. I thought the same thing that oh I will just take it off and put it back on when I take it to the dealer, but once it was out I said theres no way i'm putting that back on my truck.
Yeah I would unplug it in any case, but I think we're trying to decide between "just unplugged" or "complete removal of EGR parts from vehicle".
I gather that the op wants a way that won't damage his valve again, having yearly emission testing I would leave the egr intact, and make sure to unplugged the egr this time, hopefully won't damage another egr valve.
I appreciate it fellas! Yes I did the block off plates and did not unplug the egr valve. Ran that way since November. Upon returning the rocket ship and removing the block off plates to replace the egr pipe, I got the codes and also the egt doesn't read properly. I'm going to remove the pipe going to the intake to see if that is gummed up as well where the factory sensor is located. I'm hoping replacing the egr valve will solve my issue, I have a month before the tags expire so I'm good there. Are y'all saying that by not unplugging the valve is what caused it to get gummed up? And replacing the valve and unplugging it when I delete again will prevent this from happening again? Thanks again for the help!!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.