When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Finally! A breath of fresh air! I finished up some small stuff sms besides the stuff I gotta hookup when the engines in..she's ready!
I gotta break the cam in..any advice as to what to do?
As for exhaust..I was gonna run duals..but..I'm liking just having a walker y pipe installed. 2.5" into some sort of turbo muffler or a flowmaster 40 or 50..any thoughts? Im just gonna run the exhaust past the cab.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions on cam break in to a T. Don't miss a single step or you could ruin the whole thing. Use good break-in oil.
If it were me, I'd break in the engine accordingly, drain it, put in new oil with more break-in oil. Change the oil again after 500 miles. Then, another oil change with more break-in oil and go from there.
May be excessive, but so what.
Duals are up to preference. There's been a bit of discussion about it and there really aren't too much to be gained from it except double the cost. But if you like the idea, then go for it. If not, you'll be quite happy with a 2.5" single. Just be sure to clean out the rear port on the Walker pipe.
as for the exhaust Ive had 2 setups on my truck so far since my rebuild last year and i have the header y pipe into flowmaster 40 series, then that had got to loud and the sound of it was very unique but i got tired of it so i took the FM off and got a magnaflow and i lost the throaty sound i learned to love at idle. Granted my cam doesn't have an extreme lope but its noticeable. This year I'm gonna change it one last time and be done with it. Im gonna do a true dual setup with two thrush turbos or dynomax Super Turbos.
I'll give comp a call! It's not overkill AB..its insurance! Any of u guys hear about running atf through the oil to clean all the break in oil out of the engine? Of coarse AFTER break in!
As for the cam..it not lopey..or at least didn't say. It's a comp 260h cam if that says anything!
Oh..and I did get ny plug wires cut and installed. Just went with some accel super stocks. Finished up the pipe fittings for the heat plate..just gotta weld them on the bracket now! Oh..and I need a new distributor cap..current one broke one of its points that the wires plug up too..Oy
X2 with everything AB said. I would also add to take the v.cover off, and the distributor out. Then find an allen wrench the same size as the dizzy drive, and put it in a drill so you can put it down into the block and turn the oil pump with the drill. You want to see the oil come out of each and every rocker. Then you know that oil is thru the system and it is primed to start.
Buy the very best additive for that cam, preferably from that cam co. And save that first filter. Even when you change the oil, keep that first filter in a tub or whatever, so if something goes south, you can open up that first filter and see what went thru the filter.
The most stressful part is watching the temp rise, waiting for the thermostat to open. Usually the gauge will go well past the thermo temp before it opens on warm up. I mean, if it is a 198* thermo, it might heat up to 230 before it opens the first time. Between 198* and 230* is stress time as you decide whether or not to shut it down.
Another tip: Run straight water in the cooling system for a few days, until you are certain all the leaks are sealed. Better water on the ground than antifreeze. $. I had a huge fan on hand to help with cooling on startup, just in case.
Oh, and if you're putting a breaker bar on the vibration dampener bolt to turn engine to top dead center, please, always take off the wrench before starting the engine. I find breaker bars flying can distract me from my tuning.
I'll give comp a call! It's not overkill AB..its insurance! Any of u guys hear about running atf through the oil to clean all the break in oil out of the engine? Of coarse AFTER break in!
As for the cam..it not lopey..or at least didn't say. It's a comp 260h cam if that says anything!
Don't do it.
The cam break in oil additives are beneficial, you don't want to wash them out.
In addition to what AB said, I would change just the filter only a couple times until 1000 miles or so. That is when the most wear occurs and the breakin cam oil has been known to plug filters rather quickly.
What tiap said. You don't want to wash that break-in oil out. I've put ATF in an engine before, but it was one that was 30 years old and I wanted to clean out the years of sludge and junk. Not something necessary on a brand new one.
Originally Posted by F-250 restorer
Oh, and if you're putting a breaker bar on the vibration dampener bolt to turn engine to top dead center, please, always take off the wrench before starting the engine. I find breaker bars flying can distract me from my tuning.
I've laughed over this scenario many times. However.... After that whole mess with the head gasket last month, I'd finally got everything back together, excited to finally start it up, sat in the cab, and had a fraction of a second image flash through my head of how you've said you've done this. Got out, and low and behold, my wrench was hanging from the harmonic balancer bolt....
How did the break in go? Have you had a chance to drive your truck yet with the fresh engine? Tell me your feelings about the cam (260H). Is it lopey? Too lopey to generate vacuum for the brake booster (if PB equipped)?
I'm at the point where I need to choose a cam for my 240 rebuild and haven't landed on one yet! I'm looking for more than stock, but not race worthy either.
From where did you purchase you cam kit?
That's alll I know for now...
Last edited by expolice; Feb 7, 2013 at 01:21 PM.
Reason: poor spelling
I don't think the 260 is a much of lopey cam at all. I had one in my 300 for a little while and despite a performance boost, I couldn't really tell the difference between it and the stock cam as far as lope goes. It pulled the same vacuum as a stock cam as well.
The engine is getting dropped in next weekend at which time ill be hooking everything up and hopefully breaking it in. I got the kit from Comp Cams which came with the cam..springs..keepers..valveguide seals..steel timing gears..all the lube and lifters. I went with the 260 so I wouldn't have a loss of lower end that the 268 would have but have an overall gain of performance that the 252 wouldn't have given. I sacrificed the lope..the 268 does have a lil lope to it. I like the stock sound and with the exhaust ill be running it'll sound mean!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.