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Anyone done it. How did you fix it?
Busted 3 out 4 on rear while taking nuts off.
Thinking welding new bolts on or drilling all way out, putting bolt through, nut, then shock, then retainer nut.
Anyone done it. How did you fix it?
Busted 3 out 4 on rear while taking nuts off.
Thinking welding new bolts on or drilling all way out, putting bolt through, nut, then shock, then retainer nut.
Didnt know such thing (nutsplitter) existed, will def. look in to that next time, appreciate the advice.
Do you need the bracket itself (you didn't mention it if you do). Or just new bolts/nuts...that can be bought from any hardware store.
I've had a nut splitter in my tool box since the 1960's, comes in real handy when removing front fender to cowl bolts from 1941/50 Packards. Gotta pull the front end to R&R that looong straight 8.
Do you need the bracket itself (you didn't mention it if you do). Or just new bolts/nuts...that can be bought from any hardware store.
I've had a nut splitter in my tool box since the 1960's, comes in real handy when removing front fender to cowl bolts from 1941/50 Packards. Gotta pull the front end to R&R that looong straight 8.
I'm definitely going have get one.
The bracket and what mounts them to frame are ok.
Its the bolt themselves that protrude from the bracket that the shock slips onto that broke when i spun the nut off. Those bolts appear to be welded or cast as part of the bracket though.
Not for sale I don't think. But if you want OEM look, I'd weld a OEM Bolt to a leg and weld that to the drop. Staying away from the axle and using HIGH SETTING, AND QUICK SHOT, LET COOL REPEAT. Bottom to top, front /back and use a clamp to stabilize it so it wont crawl from the heat. Try to run a bead and it may not be good for the axle JMO. At the top near axle lower heat same method to seal the gap.
Not for sale I don't think. But if you want OEM look, I'd weld a OEM Bolt to a leg and weld that to the drop. Staying away from the axle and using HIGH SETTING, AND QUICK SHOT, LET COOL REPEAT. Bottom to top, front /back and use a clamp to stabilize it so it wont crawl from the heat. Try to run a bead and it may not be good for the axle JMO. At the top near axle lower heat same method to seal the gap.
I sure appreciate the advice. I'm going try get look at this weekend see what i can come up with.
Having these threads is great, makes for an easy reference on the great advice right from smart phone while working on truck.
I google my issue and it pulled this thread, so hopefully will help anyone else as well.
Well, it was amateur hour in my garage with the new welder : )
Here's how i came out;
-cut off busted mounts
-drill out pilot hole then 1/2 hole
-clean up best can
-1/2" grade 8 bolt
- Weld head to mount (huge pain, real hard get in there and see with Weld helmet)
- install shocks and under coat bare metal (had lift frame up get new shocks fit)
-repeat and hope it works
For the one upper i needed fix i could either turn bolt around and nut to backside then Weld, take mount off and install bolt then remount, or do the big no no i did and drill hole in frame so the bolt would go in as bolt was to long to slip in from back.
For lowers its hard get drill in straight with springs on one side and rear end on other, but did nest i could and seemed ok.
Not even going show my welds : )
Would guess best way to do it would be to remove mounts, install new bolts, then reweld mounts.... assuming you wouldn't hurt anything welding on the axle. I opted do it this way.
I'm an ex-pipe welder.I can take a look If ya want.
Thanks brother, i appreciate it, but i think i came out alright. If it turns into a fail down the road i may take you up on it though.
I'm trying pull all this off on my own and figure if i mess up ill keep trying until i learn do it right. : )