Pulling feedback carb

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Feb 2, 2013 | 07:28 PM

wannavan

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Freshman User

Joined: Jan 2013

Posts: 35

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Pulling feedback carb

Hi all

I can grab carb and twist top of it and leaking very small amount of fuel its loose thats for sure. Cannot find screws to tighten it so can only assume it has to be pulled to get to them.

See photo top right..

Top right heat pipe thing from exaust man to carb ..can I remove this or should I keep it ? This is a summer drive only if its purpose is for cold start I see no reason to keep it.

Bottom
Cruise control linkage
Throttle accellerator cable thingy linkage ? Assume these will pop off with a flat screwdriver ? Very dark out when I looked cant really see another way.

Will go to Napa for carb gaskets if they are paper thin should I use 2 ?

I know I should buy a rebuild kit but wonder if there expensive as I do plan on a duraspark 2 conversion in time and changing the carb. Plus the fact I imagine a few springs flying out of carb as I attemt to rebuild and screwing it up all together..lol

Will be damm cold out there tommorow so the more I know the more Ill get done..Thanks
　
　
　
CopyofMyfeedcarb003_zps76855839.jpg Photo by Jargstorf | Photobucket

Feb 3, 2013 | 09:23 AM

maverick600

Laughing Gas

Joined: Jan 2013

Posts: 1,015

Likes: 4

From: Gulf Coast, MS

My experience with what you are describing is that the vibration from the engine causes the screws in the base plate come loose that hold the body to the base plate. Yes you will have to take the carb loose from the intake and tighten the screws. i would get you some loc tite and put it on the threads to stop this from happening. I have had this to a fairmont and on a dodge slant 6. As far as the other stuff i am not sure but I am sure someone else can help out with that.

Feb 3, 2013 | 06:32 PM

1983F1503004x4

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Jul 2011

Posts: 1,916

Likes: 4

Our 300's and 240's are known for producing the majority of their vibrations when they go from cylinders 1 to 5. 3 to 6 and 2 to 4 are buttery smooth, however.

Feb 4, 2013 | 10:24 AM

AbandonedBronco

Moderator

Joined: Dec 2007

Posts: 7,987

Likes: 104

From: Boise, Idaho

Quote:

Originally Posted by wannavan

[SIZE=2]Hi all
I can grab carb and twist top of it and leaking very small amount of fuel its loose thats for sure. Cannot find screws to tighten it so can only assume it has to be pulled to get to them.

Yes, you need to pull the carb to get to them. It's not too difficult though since the carb is only held down with 2 bolts. I remember when I first discovered this issue on mine, I was 10 miles out in the mountains. Every time I went over a bump, the carb would separate and the engine would die. Only thing holding it all together was the air filter!

Quote:

See photo top right..

Top right heat pipe thing from exaust man to carb ..can I remove this or should I keep it ? This is a summer drive only if its purpose is for cold start I see no reason to keep it.

Yes, this is for the choke. It's not necessarily just for cold weather though. Even if it was, why do you want to remove it?

Quote:

Bottom
Cruise control linkage
Throttle accellerator cable thingy linkage ? Assume these will pop off with a flat screwdriver ? Very dark out when I looked cant really see another way.

Not sure as I don't have cruise, but from my experience, those do just pop apart.

Quote:

Will go to Napa for carb gaskets if they are paper thin should I use 2 ?

I know I should buy a rebuild kit but wonder if there expensive as I do plan on a duraspark 2 conversion in time and changing the carb. Plus the fact I imagine a few springs flying out of carb as I attemt to rebuild and screwing it up all together..lol

Will be damm cold out there tommorow so the more I know the more Ill get done..Thanks

The gaskets are as thick as they need to be. Using two is a bad idea and can cause things to break or not seal right.

Feb 4, 2013 | 06:26 PM

wannavan

Thread Starter

Freshman User

Joined: Jan 2013

Posts: 35

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Yea the loc tite is the way to go for sure..dont want to have to pull this again for 4 screws.
Took longer to get the damm cruise control apart then to remove carb..damm it .. little white grease in there before putting it back together.

Yes, this is for the choke. It's not necessarily just for cold weather though. Even if it was, why do you want to remove it?

Well it was just another pain in the *** for carb removal..plus I like to remove everything..I pulled this off this carb when I removed it and made reinstalling much simpler [see photos] part on right was a pain to work around.. Keep in mind this is a raped feedback carb..no computer .
I wonder if this heat pipe has any effect at all without computer ?

One of the many lessons ive learned from these boards is how important vaccum leaks are and how many problems they may lead too. This motor always reved too high at idle and only found a idle adjustment when I removed carb [It was capped] and just assumed it didnt have one being compy controlled. All screws on this carb where loose..I mean 2 full turns loose. I wondered if this would solve my high idle problem ..Well when I restarted after installing carb idle speed was so low it barely ran. Turn up idle screw and problem resolved. Point being had to be due to with carb sucking air in from everywhere..Have no other explination...

Thanks again guys
My next post will cause controversy ..see you there

Myfeedcarbpartsremoved_zps337b4770.jpg Photo by Jargstorf | Photobucket