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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 11:34 AM
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alternator

Hi
Am facing a dropping on voltage power . When my truck on the idle the voltage reading 12.2V , but when I turn the HIDs and the a/c plus the a/c fan , the voltage drop to almost 9.5V , Then the transmission starts to slamming the gears
Is it the alternator acting or the Battery Which is new .
I don't have the battery light on the dash but I think the dash light is not working .
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 03:03 PM
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The alternator could have a bad diode causing low output, or it might just be the idle speed is too low. Around 12v is ok, it means it's just keeping up, but not charging the battery. What are you driving?
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 03:43 PM
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Alternator output should be around 13.6-14.5.
At 12.2v your battery isn't even fully charged.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
The alternator could have a bad diode causing low output, or it might just be the idle speed is too low. Around 12v is ok, it means it's just keeping up, but not charging the battery. What are you driving?
Am driving 2000 Excursion v10 , even in higher rpm it's low reading.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Rovernut
Alternator output should be around 13.6-14.5.
At 12.2v your battery isn't even fully charged.
So , is the alternator weak.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 04:32 PM
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More like shot. Although if you don't have a good ground you'll have low voltage. Make sure that's good, if it is, then yeah, you need your alternator rebuilt or replaced. Have your battery and alternator both tested.
Give this a read. http://www.prestolite.com/literature...leshooting.pdf
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Rovernut
More like shot. Although if you don't have a good ground you'll have low voltage. Make sure that's good, if it is, then yeah, you need your alternator rebuilt or replaced. Have your battery and alternator both tested.
Give this a read. http://www.prestolite.com/literature...leshooting.pdf
Thank you , I did test the battery and the alternator and I inspect the positive and negative connection in the battery , alternator and engine block. All is in good condition.
Still reading low 12.3 V to 9.8 .
But I didn't got the Dash battery light indicator.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 07:01 PM
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With all the loads you described on, and a low idle, 12.2 would be normal, the alternator is supplying all the loads, but not charging the battery. Lower than 12v, the battery is being discharged. But I agree with no loads and at idle, the voltage should be higher. And the 9v reading is too low. Take the alternator off and let the store test it on their machine.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
With all the loads you described on, and a low idle, 12.2 would be normal, the alternator is supplying all the loads, but not charging the battery. Lower than 12v, the battery is being discharged. But I agree with no loads and at idle, the voltage should be higher. And the 9v reading is too low. Take the alternator off and let the store test it on their machine.
But I got these reading without switching the lights or the a/c .
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 07:23 PM
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Yes, sorry I missed that in your 1st post. With no loads you should be up around 14v like Rovernut said, with loads you might get down to 12ish depending on the circumstances.

I would take it off and get it checked.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
Yes, sorry I missed that in your 1st post. With no loads you should be up around 14v like Rovernut said, with loads you might get down to 12ish depending on the circumstances.

I would take it off and get it checked.
Do you recommend a high output alternator 300 amp and big 3 upgrade. And is there any side effect for this powerful alternator for the ecu and pcm and all other electrical factory stuff.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 09:06 PM
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Electronics are dependent on, and sensitive to, correct voltage. The amperage is irrelevant, as long as it's enough.
If you do go with a high output alternator be sure your alternator to battery cable is large enough. If it's too small you'll have a volt drop during high output. I'd size it so you don't get more than 0.25v drop between the alternator and battery. If the cable is 3' long you'd want a #4 welding cable for a 300a alternator.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Rovernut
Electronics are dependent on, and sensitive to, correct voltage. The amperage is irrelevant, as long as it's enough.
If you do go with a high output alternator be sure your alternator to battery cable is large enough. If it's too small you'll have a volt drop during high output. I'd size it so you don't get more than 0.25v drop between the alternator and battery. If the cable is 3' long you'd want a #4 welding cable for a 300a alternator.
I'll upgrade the positive and grounds cable.

Is it ok to use a normal battery with the high output alternator ?
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 10:55 PM
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Yes, but unless you have a winch or some other super high current draw I'd be surprised if you really need anywhere near a 300a alternator.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Rovernut
Yes, but unless you have a winch or some other super high current draw I'd be surprised if you really need anywhere near a 300a alternator.
I do have 6 HIDs 2 big Mercedes a/c fan , 2 head units still in the box ( 7'. Single din pioneer And wide screen jvc ) and am going to install 1000w sub and 600w amplifier.still in the box also. .
 
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