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Oil cooler problem again

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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 02:03 AM
  #1  
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Oil cooler problem again

Hello fellow 6.0 owners,
Last summer I had my oil cooler replaced, I've driven just twenty thousand miles and now I've notice my oil getting 22 degrees hotter than the coolant. Do these systems have to be flushed every time I change my oil? Also my egr got stuck open a couple of weeks ago but I cleaned and put new o-rings on and truck has been running strong ever since.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 02:34 AM
  #2  
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I would let it sit over night and see if the ECT, EOT and TFT
are with in a degree of each other just to make sure that
the sensors are giving you a good reading.
Then I would ask what type of coolant you used and what type
of flush you did last time. What I am thinking is you missed some crap
or are dropping out silicates in the coolant.
Did you put a filter on it?

Sean
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 08:31 AM
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My ect, eot, tft and wft are all within four degrees of each other, I had my machanic change the cooler so according to the invoice they used Parnel gold anti freeze. There is nothing on the invoice indicating a filter.
And I've actually only put on 12,000 miles since the new cooler.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 10:19 AM
  #4  
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Steadyman, regarding your comment, "There is nothing on the invoice indicating a filter"

What Yahiko is asking about, regarding putting on a filter, is if you have installed an aftermarket coolant filter. It is a bypass filter you can install that is supposed to catch silicate drop-out and possible casting sand in the cooling system, which can build up and clog your oil/egr coolers. I installed one on my 6.0 when changing out the oil and egr coolers in hopes that I wouldn't have to do a oil cooler change again any time soon. Do a search for "coolant filter" on this forum and you will find lots of info on them.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 10:34 AM
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Here's the one I used
http://www.dieselsite.com/2003-20076...waterpump.aspx
Glad I looked it up for you as I stumbled on a mistake I made on my truck. In the customer FAQ section they caution not to use SCA filters. Oooops! ! ! I hope I didn't goof too bad as I've been using one of these filters on mine since the last filter change.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 01:08 PM
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If you Paid someone to Flush your Truck I would bet they DID NOT

12k is Not to Far Hell ANTHONY DRIVES THIS FAR IN A DAY LOL

probably spill-n-fill

And Possibly have the wrong Coolant in it
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 01:27 PM
  #7  
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If you installed a filter with SCA's, you need to do a complete flush again.....it needs to be flushed as per instructions up in the Tech folder. And use FORD GOLD!
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 02:01 PM
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here is most common coolant filter location

if you dont have one you need one well that and A New Oil Cooler Pending how your Temp sensors check out


 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 02:12 PM
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Basicaly you get to do it Over

You Could try and Reverse flush The Truck oil cooler again

An Oil Cooler Reverse Flush Might Work in your Case since Only been I guessing But a Year Or so since the Oil Cooler Last time

SOME GREAT IDEAS ON OIL COOLER BACKFLUSH
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ch-advice.html


Get a Coolant filter going

Most of Us Use Extended Life Coolant Its Red In color Rated CAT EC-1 I prefer silicate Free Coolanttt

Or Ford Gold is Fine IMO
 
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 11:15 PM
  #10  
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If your hand with a few simple tools, here is my suggestion.

,

1) get a coolant filter and put it on your truck. Change the filer about 1000 miles after you put it on. After that change it every 3000 miles until you see a marked decrease in the amount of debris you are catching.

Once you are satisfied you have gotten most of the larger contaminates out with the coolant filter, flush the block, heater core and radiator.

After that:

2) go to northern tool and purchase a 110 volt pump. The one i use cost about 50.00 and if I remember correctly pumps about 5 gallons per minute.

3) purchase about 10 feet of 3/4x1/2 vinyl hose and enough fittings to hook it to a water hose. Be sure and put a ball valve close to where you will be hooking up to the water hose.

4) purchase about 10 feet of 1/2x3/8 vinyl tubing.

5) purchase a 5 gallon bucket

6) purchase 4 or 5 gallons of Evaporust (northern tool or tractor supply carries it.)

Under the turbo remove the oblong cap. The cap hides the exit port of the coolant side of the oil cooler.

Remove the back portion of the fan shroud if yours is still there and then remove the fan, water pump pulley and the water pump.

Its best to have new orings for the cap under the turbo and the water pump.

Place the tag (open end) end of the 3/4x1/2 vinyl tubing into the outlet port of the oil cooler and push down as far as it will go. Probably an inch and a half or so.

The front cover where the water pump fits in has 3 outlet slots in it. Using blue shop towels Plug the one at the 6 o'clock position and the one at the 10 o'clock position. The last one which is around the 1 o'clock position is a direct (dedicated) passage to the inlet side of the oil cooler. The big hole in the center of the front cover is the supply (return) front the engine.

Turn on the water wide open and let the pressure flush the oil cooler for a while. Maybe 30 minutes or so. Every once in a while turn the valve off and then open it quickly. This will help loosen up more crud.

After it has been flushed Place the smaller piece of vinyl tubing into the slot in the top of the front cover that you left open and push it in as far as it will go. Probably 6 to 8 inches. It goes it at an odd angle so you may have to experiment a bit to get it in there.

Remove the water hose from the large tubing and remove the valve also. Hook the hose to the outlet port of the 110 volt pump. Hook another piece of the large tubing to the suction side do the pump and place the tubing into the bucket, near the top. Do not let it go to,the bottom.

Run the smaller tubing into the bucket and make sure it is at the bottom. Weight it if you have to.

Fill the bucket with the evaporust and turn on the pump. It will,circulate the fluid through the oil cooler over and over again. Let it run for 30 minutes or so and turn the pump off and let it set for a while. Do this over and over. If possible let the evaporust sit in the oil cooler over night to a few days. The Evaporust will not damage anything.

Reflush the cooler with water, button everything back up, put 3 to 3.5 gallons of Cat EC-1 rated concentrated coolant in it an top off with distiller water.

You may, over time have to do it again, but its a lot cheaper than a new oil cooler replacement.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 11:31 PM
  #11  
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i think i'd rather put on a new oil cooler
 
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Old Jan 23, 2021 | 05:12 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Valarie
I was having the same issues with my 6.0. Until I had my motor "Bullet proofed". A shop out of Mesa, Arizona they be took Ford's oil pump and bullet proofed it I had my whole motor rebuilt the bullet proof way and now it runs great, no problems, it is very reliable And I feel confident when I'm pulling my 5th wheel trailer all alone! Check out their website and give em a call...you'll be glad you did! I am . !!!!!

Nice. Just spamming the forums.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2021 | 10:01 AM
  #13  
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Ford cooler only, first off.
Knock-offs like Dorman don't cut it.
You have to flush.
Get a gallon of Restore and follow the directions before replacing the cooler.
Rinse well with distilled water. Tap usually has lime in it to raise PH.
Refill with an ELC coolant. I'm partial to Delo ELC.
Delo ELC
Restore



 
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Old Jan 24, 2021 | 11:47 AM
  #14  
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Talking

Originally Posted by CP Dubbs
Ford cooler only, first off.
Knock-offs like Dorman don't cut it.
You have to flush.
Get a gallon of Restore and follow the directions before replacing the cooler.
Rinse well with distilled water. Tap usually has lime in it to raise PH.
Refill with an ELC coolant. I'm partial to Delo ELC.
Delo ELC
Restore
Eight years old friend!
 
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