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A couple of years ago, I didn't think a coolant filter was important.Now, after monitoring oil temp and coolant temp, I see that it may be important. I'm starting to see that 30, 40, or 50 degree difference between oil temp and coolant temp. I must be having some oil cooler plugging. I can source the parts for a coolant filter, but where exactly is the best place for it. All the recent threads talk about what brand to go with and the like. Where is the info on exactly were to plumb it? The reason I ask is if its plumbed after the coolant has already gone through the block and through the oil cooler what good is it. How do you plumb it between the block and the oil cooler?
It is a bypass system and does not go between the oil cooler and the engine block directly. The popular choice here is the Dieselsite.com system. Very complete kit with great instructions. If you are now seeing 30+ degrees difference in ect/eot it is time for a new oil cooler now. You do not want to see the mess that is made when the oil cooler ruptures. You are on borrowed time. You still need the coolant filter after the oil cooler repair.
So the source of the problem, the block(casting sand) and the thing you are trying to protect, (oil cooler) do not have a filter between them. The big particulates are allowed to block the oil cooler and the small stuff is allowed to pass through the oil cooler to be picked up by a coolant filter located in a heater hose or somewhere else. Is that how it works?
No, that's not exactly what he is saying. The by-pass filter will trap eventually all the sand in the system but first it is circulated through. By putting this filter in it will take awhile before all the sand is removed. Look at it this way about 5% of all the coolant is by-passed through the filter at any one time while circulating. so eventually the whole system will be cleaned. In my case I just changed the coolant filter for the fourth time in approximately 50,000KLM (30,000 miles). I am still finding sand in the filter. I removed the filter and poured out the fluid from the filter through a coffee filter and sand is still present. My truck has had three oil coolers replaced ( two cooler kits and one full cooler replacement) The replacement was due to a oil cooler leak. In my oppinion get the by-pass filter but first due a complete coolant flush.
It can't trap the sand that was already trapped in the cooler because it was to big to get through.
I'm all for coolant filters but if you can't put it between the source of the problem and what you are trying to protect its useless.
It seems that the best coolant filter for the 6.0 is indeed the oil cooler itself. Its the first thing to trap stuff from the block. I guess just put a new one in every couple of years while monitering oil temp and coolant temp.
The sand granules are small enough to pass through the cooler,but when they start to build up and backing up. That's when the problems start. This will not unclog the oil cooler but will help in further clogging, with additional replacement of oil/EGR cooler the potential of a problem is slowly removed.
Or
May I wasted my money and effort with this thing.
I dono I'm starting to fill up a sand box in the yard. Better out then in, I alway say. Exception would be beer.
It can't trap the sand that was already trapped in the cooler because it was to big to get through.
I'm all for coolant filters but if you can't put it between the source of the problem and what you are trying to protect its useless.
It seems that the best coolant filter for the 6.0 is indeed the oil cooler itself. Its the first thing to trap stuff from the block. I guess just put a new one in every couple of years while monitering oil temp and coolant temp.
So, what you're saying is you agree that a coolant bypass filter is a smart and beneficial mod to your already suffering oil cooler...but changing an oil cooler @ 8hours and cost of $350 (just for the heat exchanger kit) every two years makes more sense than the simple installation of a bypass filter that cost $9 bucks per filter and takes all of 10 minutes to change? Am I missing something?
Yes, they are beneficial if you can get it plumbed in the right spot like other engines that already come with them.
Cooler kit is about $175.00 and it can be done under three hours, and I meant every six years instead of a couple.
I'm going to put one on for the hell of it. Coolant filter bases are everywhere.
I wish somebody would machine a billet drop in piece to take the place of the oil cooler and than you could route the water and the oil the way you wanted to.
brady, all heavy diesels with coolant filtration use a bypass filter kit, most heavy trucks and equipment it is installed from stock. Putting the filter between would not solve your problem of all the other places where the sand causes problems. Also, a filter that is not a bypass, if plugged would interupt the flow which would then cause the same overheating issues as a plugged oil cooler. That is why a bypass system is used. Most blocks will find little sand, and changeing coolant often helps, but the best for sure solution is the by pass which is always filtering some coolant and removing anything mvoing in the system. What these guys are saying is even if you replace oil coolers, you still need it, what about hte sand in the water pump bearings, binding the thermostat, plugging coolant passages in the heads, ect?
Thanks, that is not a bad price. Like I said, I'm going to put one on, I just wished there was a better place to plumb it. I guess not.
I would think that is a good way to plumb it. You DO want just a bypass. It you plumb it between a main line (NOT BEING A BYPASS) than if it clogs while on the road you will overheat and may cause other problems..Just My .02
I don't see where it could be plumbed to filter before the oil cooler. Would be nice though. Unless you filtered at the lower radiator hose? I'm sure somewhere someone has checked that out. Maybe a by-pass there?
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