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New batteries at 12.5 volts
new starter with good bench test
Relays pcm and starter are good
Fuses are good
New ignition switch electric
Battery terminals clean and tight
Ground to frame on driverside clean and tight
ground to block on passenger clean and tight.
Scan guage 2 on the dash displays the following details:
48.0 fmp
12.0 flp
12.6 vlt
.231 icv
14.8 ipr
I tried changing the shifter from park to neutral with no difference.
When I pull the ignition to starter relay fuse, and put my volt meter in the fuse, it read 10.5 volts. So I went and replaced the ignition switch. Now, with the volt meter in the same fuse location it's showing 9 volts.
When I disconnect the ignition wire on the passenger side fender and hit it to the positive post, the starter will click but not crank.
When I use a 10 guage jumper wire of my own to go from battery positive to the ignition post on sylenoid the starter clicks and doesn't crank.
I tried disconnecting the fan clutch pigtail... still no start
With key on and shifting into reverse,the white lights come on
Putting on charger while trying to figure it out.
Please, help me get my self employed, work truck back to work! Showing the fuse im getting low voltage from. Also showing 9 volts here
Last edited by Hangglide6.0; Jan 18, 2021 at 05:05 PM.
Reason: More things done I read about in other posts
Sounds like you have quite the problem. I'm no electrical Wizard but when you jump 12V to the starter and nothing happens but a click, you may be hydro locked. Start from a clean slate and make sure the engine will roll over, remove the belt off the front of the engine also. See if the engine will rotate first and hope this helps finding the problem.
Yep, not many reasons the engine won't turn over with a straight wire to the starter. Either a bad starter, wire, or battery/ground, or the engine or AC compressor is locked. You don't have to completely remove the belt to eliminate the AC compressor - just take the tension off it and bump the starter only enough to see if that lets it turn. If the engine is locked, the starter sounds different that a typical bad starter clicking - because it's not bad, and it's trying to turn the engine. The sound is more of a deep clunk than a click.
When I disconnect the ignition wire on the passenger side fender and hit it to the positive post, the starter will click but not crank.
When I use a 10 guage jumper wire of my own to go from battery positive to the ignition post on sylenoid the starter clicks and doesn't crank.
First steps.
Sounds like a bad starter. Tap on the starter to see if it frees the brushes temporarily. If not, pull the starter and get it checked. But even if it starts, it's going to need a starter.
Sounds like a bad starter. Tap on the starter to see if it frees the brushes temporarily. If not, pull the starter and get it checked. But even if it starts, it's going to need a starter.
She's not hydrolocked. I was sending the 12 volts with the starter wire over the passenger fender and only getting a click... I thought maybe the wire of battery cable has a short in it... I pulled the starter and used the jumper cables and a screwdriver to make sure the starter would spin with my batteries. The starter works, the batteries work. I hooked it back up to the truck and went to jump the starter with a screwdriver to verify if the small wire was bad... nothing from the starter.... I ran some jumper cables to the starter and used the jumper wire and it cranks! I'll be replacing the battery cable to the starter
Sense you going to be replacing the starter cable you should also take a close look at the ground cables from the battery to the frame.
The way to test large cables is called voltage drop. Here is a good video that explains it so it wasy to understand.
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