Ok boys, sorry 'bout this but my truck has been sitting since late September, early October and I need it back. Here is the run down so far.

I was driving it and it died in the middle of the road. No warning or cel, no stuttering, just died. I have replaced cps and ipr, uvch's and all are new as well. Last computer check it was showing only 300 psi from the icp, and I have no smoke no matter how long I crank it. I have to do this by myself as I don't really know any of the knowledgable diesel drivers in my area, and as of now I don't own AE or anything like it. I have ran a buzz test and all injectors buzzed just fine. There doesn't appear to be any oil in the bowl either.

I got fresh batteries in it today, and gave it a shot. Cranks all day long but still no smoke. After I cranked I jumped out and pulled the hpop res plug and was able to watch it drain, quite fast I might add. But it doesn't drain all the way, just down to about an inch or so below the top. Oil is old and I plan on changing it this weekend if time allows. Now I am thinking its losing pressure but I don't have access to the plugs for the lines at this time. Most of this will have to wait for taxes. My next step is to take off the vc's and hope my wife will crank it so that I can watch for oil flow. I am asking you guys what else I should be looking at. Sorry for the book but I wanted to give as much info as possible. Thanks in advance guys.

 

A couple quick questions come to mind, one is whether the oil level is up to the "full" mark on the dipstick. Another is where you got your CPS. If it didn't come from Ford or International, there is a good chance that it is no good.

This troubleshooting guide may help you get a start on deciding which direction to go. I think you need to change the oil first thing. You may also have a drain-back valve issue in the front cover that is draining the HPOP reservoir, but if there is oil in it after you have been cranking, it shouldn't keep the truck from running completely.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Byb4...1qRU1VVGc/edit

Good luck.

 

I think since you are not able to build HPOP pressure , it sounds like an Injector o-ring....when it happened to me I was backing into my driveway...so I saved the 250 tow charge ...If the HP oil does not reach 500 psi it will never start....On mine I had 1 toasted one but all were in rough shape...make sure you install OEM o-rings

 

Thanks guys. I will take a look at that diagnostic chart you posted Nate. To answer your question, the oil is not at "full" but it is in the cross-hatch section, and it doesn't look dirty. Its a dark brown, not black. I got the cps from oriellys, actually 2 of them. When I crank, the tach moves like it should, so its sending a good signal.

So if it turns out to be bad o-rings, should I swap out the internals as well, even I'm not noticing oil in the fuel bowl, or should I leave well enough alone? I was gonna get the o-rings from riffraff or dieselorings.com

Also, is there a way to tell if the icp is suspect? I have tried cranking with it plugged in and unplugged and no change.

 

I would still get a CPS from Ford and put it in there. They don't always act the same when they go out so just because you're seeing the tach bounce doesn't necessarily mean that the CPS is good. I'm not saying it isn't either, but without a working CPS, the engine WILL NOT run. That's why I say you're best off to get a good one.

Here is a link to the HPO test procedure if you think you are having HPO issues.
97-15A 7.3L DI Turbo

 

I appreciate that chart as well. Now the question is where can I get those plugs and adapter for that check?

When taxes come in I will get the new cps and probably a new icp as well. I am definately getting AE. Might as well considering I have a minimum 100 buck towing bill, and the closest shop wants 100 to run daignostic check with their AE system. And thats just a start. Add in labor and parts, we easily go into the thousands.

 

For that, I am no help. I would suggest somewhere that has the ability to make hydraulic hoses.

 

Ok thanks. I will see what I can find around here. Should be something because we are surrounded by corn, and yet somehow still the county seat. Thank god for small towns.

 

$100 buys you a year of AAA Plus coverage, up to four tows per year, up to 100 miles per tow.

 

Nice!! I will have to look into that. After I get it running.

I am getting miffed right now because it has a 46" red light bar across the top and I can't use it. If I'm across town, I have to drive my wife's Hyundai at the posted speed limit and hope that I make the truck. I get paid even if I'm on station, but whats the point of being a fire fighter if you can't fight fires.

 

The plug is the same thread as the ICP or any of the fittings on the oil rail in the heads....YOU Need a 5000 psi guage and a length of line and the o-ring that seals it...I guess you could remove one of the plugs or the ICP to find out what it is ....Oil in the fuel just means the o-rings are deteriorating and oil is mixing with the fuel...but when one lets go there is a major leak in HP oil and it will never build pressure..I have a diagnostic scanner so I was able to watch the HP oil while cranking and it never got above 300 psi , even after I put in a new IPR ....so I knew it was an O-ring....

 

My next purchase is AE so that I can see what is going on now. The last time I used a snapon red brick but I dont have access to it now.

 

You won't regret it ...for sure

 

Ok need more help here guys. I am about to pull the vc's and check for oil flow at the injectors. What exactly am I looking for and how much oil should I see flowing? Or are there other things that I should be looking at to see if I have blown orings? I have to do this before the wife will let me spend the money on AE. I am doing this today so any info ASAP would be much appreciated. I will report back once I see what is going on. Thanks

 

They should be all spitting out about the same amount of oil. Compare to each other.

Look for air bubbles at the base of the injectors also.