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Has anyone installed the Sanderson Headers in their 65-66-? Truck?
Some one on one of the other FE sites did but I couldn't get a response from them. The Sanderson headers I was interested in collect and drop down between the two center cylinders on both sides. This allows your exhaust pipe as well as the headers themselves to stay away from the Starter.
Sure like to have some pics of these headers installed...
Thanks, Fritz
I used them on my '66 4X4. They were a nice piece of work.
Do you have andy pics of how close the drop on the drivers side comes to the front drive line and how the pipes are routed to get them by that front drive line. Im going to be putting a 360 in my 63 F250 in a bit so Im wondering how those shortys worked out. Sounds like they are good to go but I would love some visual on how it all went together. Thanks in advance Vic
Thanks guys. I know what whey look like - I've been to Sanderson's site. I would like to see them installed to
-see how much clearance there is between headers and steering box, I have power steering and lines coming off it.
-How the exhaust pipes were run, as in clearance on both sides.
-Stuff......
Some one out there must have pics of their center drop headers installed in a 65,66, truck. I'm not sure if any of the later (67-68) trucks have the exact engine bay or not. Never really took the time to measure them.
Fritz;
Why Sandersons when you can run full length headers? I run Flowtechs on my '66 with a factory starter. I think you'll find that the majority run the full length headers. Just curious.
I've run (I think) maybe 4 different full length headers over the years on my F-100s. Too much heat where I don't want it. Either cooks the starters (I now have a high-torque mini, I've had in all threes now for yrs) or too much heat on the cab floor. OR, and my favorite,,, LEAKS at the heads. Sandersons have a thick flange that only uses a sealer (no gasket) and collect and drop down in the center. I just got off the phone with them and the gal I talked to said some of the guys are using FF393. I did check them out but they go back to the same set up as before - shooting toward the back. Small block Chev has the 'real' shorties that collect and drop between the two center cylinder on both sides. The new Sanderson shorty is somewhat the same and this is the idea that I like. However, two different pics I finally came up with show the #8 pipe could be run a little higher to so it sets further away from the p/s unit. Also be nice to have the collector about 2" higher up to give more room to run the exhaust pipe...
Just a thought. They said they could make the modification but I'd bet at a great cost. I suppose I could cut that last pipe and run it higher. I would be getting the uncoated ones anyway.
More feed back please,,, thanks guys.
Do you have any pics of how close the drop on the drivers side comes to the front drive line and how the pipes are routed to get them by that front drive line.
I can get some pics later. The drive line has plenty of clearance. The differential housing to pipe is a smidgen tight. I had to make my own reducer to clear it. I also added a spring to my front spring stack. It gave me about an inch.
I've run (I think) maybe 4 different full length headers over the years on my F-100s. Too much heat where I don't want it. Either cooks the starters (I now have a high-torque mini, I've had in all threes now for yrs) or too much heat on the cab floor. OR, and my favorite,,, LEAKS at the heads. Sandersons have a thick flange that only uses a sealer (no gasket) and collect and drop down in the center. I just got off the phone with them and the gal I talked to said some of the guys are using FF393. I did check them out but they go back to the same set up as before - shooting toward the back. Small block Chev has the 'real' shorties that collect and drop between the two center cylinder on both sides. The new Sanderson shorty is somewhat the same and this is the idea that I like. However, two different pics I finally came up with show the #8 pipe could be run a little higher to so it sets further away from the p/s unit. Also be nice to have the collector about 2" higher up to give more room to run the exhaust pipe...
Just a thought. They said they could make the modification but I'd bet at a great cost. I suppose I could cut that last pipe and run it higher. I would be getting the uncoated ones anyway.
More feed back please,,, thanks guys.
I use to have header leaks until I spoke with Ross on the FE forum. I use gaskets and high temp silicone. You can seal any header like Sanderson does with just high temp but it's tricky to install and not smear it around. The only complaint I have about headers in running them over 30 years is under hood temps. I've never had a starter issue. I've had several Slicks and never had floor heating issues but I have an excellent exhaust guy who builds award winning hot rods. Top notch sort of guy. I'm running the best ceramic coating you can get but headers are still heat radiators. The Sandersons are nice looking units for sure. The guy who ran them on the FE forum hasn't been on in a long time. He lived outside of Vegas. Good luck!
I've run (I think) maybe 4 different full length headers over the years on my F-100s. Too much heat where I don't want it. Either cooks the starters (I now have a high-torque mini, I've had in all threes now for yrs) or too much heat on the cab floor. OR, and my favorite,,, LEAKS at the heads. Sandersons have a thick flange that only uses a sealer (no gasket) and collect and drop down in the center. I just got off the phone with them and the gal I talked to said some of the guys are using FF393. I did check them out but they go back to the same set up as before - shooting toward the back. Small block Chev has the 'real' shorties that collect and drop between the two center cylinder on both sides. The new Sanderson shorty is somewhat the same and this is the idea that I like. However, two different pics I finally came up with show the #8 pipe could be run a little higher to so it sets further away from the p/s unit. Also be nice to have the collector about 2" higher up to give more room to run the exhaust pipe...
Just a thought. They said they could make the modification but I'd bet at a great cost. I suppose I could cut that last pipe and run it higher. I would be getting the uncoated ones anyway.
More feed back please,,, thanks guys.
I use to have header leaks until I spoke with Ross on the FE forum. I use gaskets and high temp silicone. You can seal any header like Sanderson does with just high temp but it's tricky to install and not smear it around. The only complaint I have about headers in running them over 30 years is under hood temps. I've never had a starter issue. I've had several Slicks and never had floor heating issues but I have an excellent exhaust guy who builds award winning hot rods. Top notch sort of guy. I'm running the best ceramic coating you can get but headers are still heat radiators. The Sandersons are nice looking units for sure. The guy who ran them on the FE forum hasn't been on in a long time. He lived outside of Vegas. Good luck!
You're not doing it right then. Sanderson's instructions state to lay an 1/8" bead and then let it dry before installing them. Mine don't leak at all.
Vic,
My Sanderson's have a lot more clearance than your flowtech's.
I never argued that Sanderson's had less clearance. Performance wise I prefer a long tube header. That's all. Anything is better than the stock logs. My Flowtechs do not hit or interfere with anything on my truck. I do not have power steering however.
I never argued that Sanderson's had less clearance. Performance wise I prefer a long tube header. That's all. Anything is better than the stock logs. My Flowtechs do not hit or interfere with anything on my truck. I do not have power steering however.
Hey dsrtjeeper I think 72 was just giving me a follow up on my question about how the headers fit his truck. Im the Vic he was posting to. Just bouncing some info on 4wd slicks with FE and tubes. Im running flowtech on my 65 and drivers side collector was a bit tight to the front drive line. My exhaust tech did away with part of the problem still close but have about 2" of clearance now. Ran them one summer so far and no problems with starter overheat and no noticable heat into the cab and I have no insulation or sound deadner in my cab at all not even any carpet.