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I have a 1997 F350 7.3. I am replacing the fuel pump. In researching i have followed other write ups about the procedure. I have the fuel canister unbolted the hoses off the top of the pump and have the connector off of the bottom hose. I have not gotten the hose off the bottom yet.
The fuel pump is unbolted and lose, it wiggles, but I can not get it out. Some wrote about turning the engine over by hand and the cam would push the pump up and keep the tappet from falling out.
Watch it with the bolts loose and have a buddy just bump the starter over a bit at a time till it pops up.or get a big braker bar and socket and turn the balancer by the bolt.
Clock the motor with the mark on the balancer to the pointer on the CPS . That makes it impossible to loose the tappet ..The pump won't pop up out of the engine , it designed not to .. Bolts out turn it back & forth as you pry on both of the bolt tabs simultaneously . If it breaks off , the tappet will still be there to attach a puller to ...
It shouldn't buddy . The stroke of the tappet is limited to the distance it travels when the pump is bolted down ..If the OP can't pull it out , the tappet won't push it out ...
Thanks. Got the pump out and the new one back in before dark. That banjo bolt on the back is something else. Took a while to get it started correctly.
In the morning I will get the other lines hooked back up and give it a test.
While i was under the hood, I took a look in the fuel canister, it appears that the heating element is broken. (the round disk wire loop with the electricial connection).
Does anyone have a part number for this?
Will the the truck still work with this disconnected?
Yes, it will run fine with the fuel bowl heater disconnected. Mine is unplugged on the inside and the wires stripped from the disk. Been that way for years. I don't know if it makes a difference or not but I left the disk in there so the standpipe would still be in the same place. I think the standpipe is LH threads if I remember right.