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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

U-Joint Replacement Help!

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Old Jan 25, 2013 | 03:40 PM
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U-Joint Replacement Help!

Note: I realize this is the F-series forum, but I thought I could get more help here.

So I've been trying to replace the rear U-joint on my friend's 1995 E-350 Club Wagon extended van and have encountered some strange problems. The old fasteners were of the strap type, and had 4 long bolts with a nut on the end. Thing is, the holes on the yoke are non-threaded, so it must be the U-Bolt type of fastener. So what was on there was not the correct type of retainer, just some BS that someone slapped together, which probably explains why the U-Joint failed to begin with.

I have the new U-Joint installed in the drive shaft, but I can't locate the proper attaching hardware to attach to the yoke that comes from the differential. Problem is, I went through every single U bolt set that Carquest has and NONE of them are the right size. What is even weirder is that in their records, the proper size U-Joint has a 1 3/16" bearing cap, whereas the only U-Bolt listed is for a 1 1/8" bearing cap.

I went to the Ford dealer and they could only give me a part number, with no specs given, which had to be special ordered. I called carquest to have them cross-reference the Ford part number and the number wasn't even in their system.

So I'm really at a loss. Perhaps a previous owner changed out the yoke at some point for one of the wrong size? (Why would anyone do that?) But you'd think at least one of the U-bolts at the auto parts store would fit. I'm thinking of perhaps taking the driveshaft and yoke to a machine shop and see if they can fabricate something to work, or perhaps see if they have a yoke at the junkyard to compare to mine. Any advice at all would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2013 | 09:34 PM
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From: Sumter SC
Hi there, does the u-joint sit in the recesses in the diff. yoke properly? If so you should be able to go to the local pull-a-part and grab u-bolts that fit. Also, did you measure the bolt spread and use that to find the correct u-bolts. Just some quick thoughts.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 04:58 PM
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geoffunkel
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Yes, I took exact measurements of everything with my calipers. They didn't have anything even close to fitting it at the auto parts store or Ford dealer. I'm trying to just take off the yoke and bring it with the driveshaft to a driveline shop or machine shop to see if they can figure it out. Also I'd like to take it to a junkyard to compare it and see if the yoke is the same as the stock one.

I have the puller to take the yoke off. Problem is the bolt that holds it in is just not coming out. I've tired dozens of applications of kroil and PB Blaster, along with a hefty dose of heat from a torch. And I still can't get it off with my impact wrench or huge breaker bar.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 08:02 AM
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U-joint replacement

Sorry it took me so long to get back to you. Are you sure you want to take off the pinion yoke? If you do you will have to check the preload and retorque the pinion. If you are cool with that, you will find that it takes a lot of torque to break the pinion nut loose, sometimes you have to just lay on the impact wrench until it starts to move.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 04:19 PM
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Sorry I didn't get back sooner. I finally got it all squared away. Someone had drilled out the threads on the yoke flange at some point. I used the stock straps and secured them with grade 8 bolts and lock washers on the other side. The van just made a 500 mile trip with no problems. All is good so far.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 06:18 PM
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Thanks for the update! It's amazing what some people, previous owners, will do to rig their vehicle together.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by rla2005
Thanks for the update! It's amazing what some people, previous owners, will do to rig their vehicle together.
Yeah it's pretty ridiculous. They drilled out the holes and hodgepodged it together with poor quality bolts and straps instead of just buying the proper hardware set for like $6 from the auto parts store.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 07:56 AM
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From: Sumter SC
Glad you solved the problem, nothing like trying to fix someone elses hack job.
 
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