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94 5.8 ignition issues

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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 04:15 PM
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curlyfry959's Avatar
curlyfry959
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94 5.8 ignition issues

hi, I'm working on a 94 E350 with the 5.8 in it, and have run into a strange problem and am wondering if anyone has any input. This e350 cut away van that has been made into a bus, and it was broke into about a year and a half ago and has not run since. Prior to me, it has been worked on by numerous mechanics who got no where with it. The issue is that it won't have any spark coming out of the coil. The ignition switch, all of the distributer (though it doesn't matter cause the coil isn't sparking), the remote Ignition Control Module, Park/ Neutral Switch, and starter relays have all been replaced. Prior people gave up when the starter quit engaging.

all that being said, this is what i have discovered. It would not even engage the starter do anything when you turned the key unless you pulled the shifter over towards the left of the "P" on the shifter. I adjusted the cable that goes from the shifter over the the gauge cluster to where the "PRND12" is and it will turn the starter as usual.

After playing with the shifter, the coil will work sometime yet not others, its hit or miss so i think the issue has to be somewhere in the shifter, brake, and key mechanism. I can't find anything in the wiring diagrams. When playing with the brake, shifter and turning the key it will sometimes fire up correctly, but not for long because the coil will stop working.

Any input is greatly appreciated
 
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 07:53 PM
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88n94
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It sounds like another case of a bad coil or a bad PIP in the distributor. If either of those is bad, you won't get any sparking from the coil when cranking the engine. I hope I am understanding you correctly in that the engine will sometimes start but won't stay running long?

Having to play with the shift lever to get the engine to crank over is a separate problem that needs more work.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 09:11 PM
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You absolutely have a problem with the Neutral safety switch if you have to move the shifter.
Starting circuit goes through the Neutral safety switch in Park and Neutral only.
These functions are there to prevent starting in gear.
Get the start function issue cleared then go on to any other issue, otherwise you fighting two or more issues at the same time.
.
. Starting:
The start circuit has a seperate lead to the TFI to increase coil voltage when cranking.
As soon as the motor fires and you let off to RUN, the start circuit transfers to a seperate 'Run' lead in the ignition switch to the TFI.
Unless you go about this from a position of knowing how things work you will also give up as the others have done.
Good luck.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 09:13 PM
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curlyfry959
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Originally Posted by 88n94
It sounds like another case of a bad coil or a bad PIP in the distributor. If either of those is bad, you won't get any sparking from the coil when cranking the engine. I hope I am understanding you correctly in that the engine will sometimes start but won't stay running long?

Having to play with the shift lever to get the engine to crank over is a separate problem that needs more work.
Pip and the coil have also been replaced. I am leaning towards the computer.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by curlyfry959
Pip and the coil have also been replaced. I am leaning towards the computer.
How was the pip replaced, by replacing the entire distributor?
 
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 09:43 PM
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Sometimes the pip can be bad. Mine had a new one in it and it was bad. Unplug the pip and on the harness side, the 8 pin, see if you are getting 12 volts, if you are the pip is more likely the problem. I just went throught this today.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 10:59 PM
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I'm with Bluegrass on this one. I'd bet there is a problem with the neutral safety switch down on the transmission.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by curlyfry959
Pip and the coil have also been replaced. I am leaning towards the computer.
The only connection between the computer and shifter lever is the MLPS, aka Neutral Safety Switch in a round-about way. Perhaps it's coincidence, but if wiggling the shifter makes the truck start/run then I have to also go with the MLPS or you have some compromised wiring.
 
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