Measuring multiple cylinders for pushrod length
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Measuring multiple cylinders for pushrod length
I'm an engine rebuilding virgin so bare with me. I'm measuring for pushrod length on my 460 using a length checker. Am I safe measuring cyl 1 at TDC or should I measure more than one? And if I measure more, what should I do if the numbers come up slightly different?
Lead Driver
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Was the block decked ? Heads milled ? The valve tip heights all set equal ? If these things were done then I'd only check one cylinder on each bank. In a nonadjustable valve train it is extremely important that all the valve tip heights were set equal. Don't forget to add the preload figure to the push rod length you come up with.
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Thanks for the reply Mark.
Part of the problem is that the engine was rebuilt before I got my hands on it. I have no idea what was done to the heads or block. The machine shop said the deck and heads were straight so they didn't do any additional work on them.
I've measured each cylinder and getting some slight differences in length. It's my first time doing this so I may be a bit when setting 0 lash. I may be compressing the lifter a bit. What's the best way forward in this case? Should I just stick to a single cylinder? Find the best pushrod length between my highest and lowest length reading?
Part of the problem is that the engine was rebuilt before I got my hands on it. I have no idea what was done to the heads or block. The machine shop said the deck and heads were straight so they didn't do any additional work on them.
I've measured each cylinder and getting some slight differences in length. It's my first time doing this so I may be a bit when setting 0 lash. I may be compressing the lifter a bit. What's the best way forward in this case? Should I just stick to a single cylinder? Find the best pushrod length between my highest and lowest length reading?
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No I'm not using checking springs? Should I be?
I don't have the numbers infront of me, but I remember the intake being 0.025" difference between the highest and lowest reading. The way I went about is I set the timing gears dot to dot (pre-71 0-degree) and checked cyl 1.. I then turned the engine until the intake lifter went up and back down on the next firing cylinder. I then checked that one.
I turned the pushrod length checker until there was no more up and down play against the rocker arm, trying my best not to compress the lifter. Then counted the rotations and adding the recommended preload.
I don't have the numbers infront of me, but I remember the intake being 0.025" difference between the highest and lowest reading. The way I went about is I set the timing gears dot to dot (pre-71 0-degree) and checked cyl 1.. I then turned the engine until the intake lifter went up and back down on the next firing cylinder. I then checked that one.
I turned the pushrod length checker until there was no more up and down play against the rocker arm, trying my best not to compress the lifter. Then counted the rotations and adding the recommended preload.
Lead Driver
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You have to put checking springs on the cylinder you are checking, there is no other way to do it. If there is any movement in the lifter plunger it will throw the measurement off and the valve spring psi will easily overcome the plungers spring.
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From: N,Ga
Why are you checking the length? You really don't have a reason to. That motor-factory, has non adjustable rocker arms. This ain't a SBC run the nut down all the way and that's it. Or I'm I missing something?
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From: In my house..
By pressurizing the cylinder with compressed air the valves will be held in place so can easily install the checking springs and retainer, disconnect the air line and have at it..
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