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Plenum Inserts...WOW

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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 11:28 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by JOHN2001
I would suggest them not as an increase in mpg but piece of mind. There's no reason the inserts alone helped the mileage out aside from better clamping being able to take place.

When I swapped turbos I put a set in my truck and come to find out when I pulled the spyder apart I have a massive boost leak at the orange boot. Someone had taken it off before and didn't realign it right. I was only getting 15 pounds of boost in all my tunes.... You never know what you have to fix until your in it already... Worked out great for me
Yeah, I already had leaks at my plenums and did new boots there to help stop the bleeding. It still leaks but not as badly. Sounds like the inserts are the real deal. I'll find out shortly!
 
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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 01:02 AM
  #17  
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I did some on my rig, but can't tell the difference cause I NEED up pipes. so I am saving.

and those T-clamps sure are sweet. but as I i was clamping them down I never seem to get "tight". was afraid of cutting into the boots if I went any tighter.

once I get the up pipes installed I hope to gain better MPG's and power. cause gauges are next.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 10:09 PM
  #18  
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I just did new boots and inserts. I can not say I had any real gains in mpg. I was not leaking to bad either. Went from a max 17 psi boost to 18.5 now. All stock except for 6637.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 10:52 PM
  #19  
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Clearly I had a bad leak that I was unaware of. These inserts are cheap insurance in my mind.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 05:54 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by JT250
Those are definetly better if you have the $. Tugly put those on I believe when he did his sticks and Turbo.
Since you mentioned it:





The stick/38R install was a disaster, plain and simple. I barely got Stinky running to get home. Leaving the failed IPR out of it, almost every clamp related to boost gave me fits because half the clamps stripped out, the IC tubes were out of round, I didn't clean the boot mating surfaces properly, and we forgot to tighten one clamp. No pop from the loose clamp - our work was so schlocky that it was just a hissy fit. I put in the inserts the first time, but the intake plenums leaked... so the inserts were gifted to 2000ca250 for helping me with the truck. I bought the billet plenums with O-ring seals because:
  • They are much stronger than stock, this is a true upgrade.
  • I don't have to worry if I got the mating surface free from oil.
  • I'm not waiting for sealant to dry before I know if it's fixed.
  • If I do have a leak, a redo doesn't destroy my previous work.
Once I discovered plenum leaks, the decision was made for me. I went all out: I pulled the IC tubes to make the ends round again and clean them, and replaced all CAC boots with Clay's. Oh... and those #$%*@! spider clamps suck. Get the T-bolt clamp kit (4 of them) from Clay while you're at it. Seriously. When they arrive, be careful not to put your 7/16" deep socket on too deep - it grabs the bolt collar. You'll understand if you get them.

Remember - the clamps with the springs all go on the hot side of the IC.



 
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 02:11 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Tugly
Remember - the clamps with the springs all go on the hot side of the IC.
I have always wondered why this is.
Any insight?
 
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 03:14 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by A/Ox4
I have always wondered why this is.
Any insight?
It's an expansion thing. It compensates for changing boot wall thickness with temperature.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 03:27 PM
  #23  
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IIRC there is a torque spec for the spring clamps, is there a torque spec for the t bolts with no springs?
 
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 06:32 AM
  #24  
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I just use #10 (4 - 22 scale) torque setting on my Milwaukee cordless drill. How's that for scientific?
 
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 09:35 AM
  #25  
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happpened to me as well, the other day, tooling around. First, i cant comment on mpg gain, because it was one of the first things i installed in my truck, but man, sure bets clamping down on tin metal.

As for the t-clamps, i blasted 4 of them. They seem to be a 2-3 time install/removal item, and thats it. Give that little extra turn and bam, threads stripped. Also, i got the 3in t-clamps, and with the tightening, they looked bottomed out. I'm in the hunt for the spring t-clamps, them factory ones are still goin strong...
 
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 11:42 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76
As for the t-clamps, i blasted 4 of them. They seem to be a 2-3 time install/removal item, and thats it.
You might want to put that air wrench back on the shelf.

Using my method with the thick CAC boots, they have survived about 5 removals. The clamps on the IC tubes have endured about 20 removals or more. If I keep this up, I should look into adapting my clamps with latch handles.

The spring T-Bolt clamps (medium duty) require 50 in/lb of torque on the nut (now I need to calibrate my cordless drill). For your reading pleasure:

[LINK] [LINK]
 
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Old Jan 25, 2013 | 02:00 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Tugly
I just use #10 (4 - 22 scale) torque setting on my Milwaukee cordless drill. How's that for scientific?
Says the guy who cleans out his truck with a leaf blower
 
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Old Jan 25, 2013 | 06:33 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by A/Ox4
Says the guy who cleans out his truck with a leaf blower
Don't forget my procedure for draining the oil filter during a change.

 
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Old Jan 25, 2013 | 01:01 PM
  #29  
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I've used the same method to 'drill' some new life into a belt.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 08:51 PM
  #30  
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Results are in. Very little variation from tank to tank. Just work and school commutes.

 
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