brake pedal woes
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Upstate NY
Pump up would only be air; slow drop would be M/C cup failure.
Did you check the booster rod adjustment? The direction I am going to is that while OE is very careful to manufacture the apply piston dimensions to a close tolerance to meet the projection spec that I uploaded, the forums have seen some aftermarket parts not to spec. As I noted earlier, that adjustment is critical in keeping the compensate ports open but too much clearance allows for too much travel.
You still need to check the front brakes though. Slide pins, pistons, even pads stuck in the brackets can cause your issues.
Did you check the booster rod adjustment? The direction I am going to is that while OE is very careful to manufacture the apply piston dimensions to a close tolerance to meet the projection spec that I uploaded, the forums have seen some aftermarket parts not to spec. As I noted earlier, that adjustment is critical in keeping the compensate ports open but too much clearance allows for too much travel.
You still need to check the front brakes though. Slide pins, pistons, even pads stuck in the brackets can cause your issues.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Upstate NY
Hey guys, just wanted to close this up.
Did front brakes pads were ok so I scratched em up and resused them
new rotors and tins on both sides, both top caliper slide pins were free, bottom driver was sticking, bottom passenger was STUCk, luckily I was able to get it out. I use dialectric grease on the slide pins and the truck pedal feels 100x better now, plus my rotors were shot.
thanks you guys reps have gone out
Did front brakes pads were ok so I scratched em up and resused them
new rotors and tins on both sides, both top caliper slide pins were free, bottom driver was sticking, bottom passenger was STUCk, luckily I was able to get it out. I use dialectric grease on the slide pins and the truck pedal feels 100x better now, plus my rotors were shot.
thanks you guys reps have gone out
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
You should be using synthetic brake grease. Not dielectric grease.
Bendix Ceramlub Brake Lubricant BL20 - SummitRacing.com
This stuff is a bit more that I like in cost but really any good synthetic
brake grease will do the job Other than that sound all good now to me.
Enjoy the return of stopping power.
Sean
Bendix Ceramlub Brake Lubricant BL20 - SummitRacing.com
This stuff is a bit more that I like in cost but really any good synthetic
brake grease will do the job Other than that sound all good now to me.
Enjoy the return of stopping power.
Sean
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,234
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From: Upstate NY
You should be using synthetic brake grease. Not dielectric grease.
Bendix Ceramlub Brake Lubricant BL20 - SummitRacing.com
This stuff is a bit more that I like in cost but really any good synthetic
brake grease will do the job Other than that sound all good now to me.
Enjoy the return of stopping power.
Sean
Bendix Ceramlub Brake Lubricant BL20 - SummitRacing.com
This stuff is a bit more that I like in cost but really any good synthetic
brake grease will do the job Other than that sound all good now to me.
Enjoy the return of stopping power.
Sean
I've always used dialectric grease basically its just a high temp silicone based grease thats always worked for me, plus we always have the mini tubs of it around the shop, so it works out
I'll check it in a few thousand miles and see what they look like, I did grease my rear pins with it aswell and I will be replacing the rear rotors at somepoint because they were almost as chewed up as the fronts so I will check then
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
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From: Upstate NY
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Upstate NY
ok I am bringing this back.
I am back at it, same problem as before, low but firm brake pedal truck will stop well, and if I hit the pedal 2-3 more times after the first push the pedal will be right at the top and wont really sink at all.
I'm wondering can a caliper bypass internally? I put new pads on the rear, all new tins on all 4 caliper brackets, front new rotors, front pads have good meat left on them, and new slide pins with dialectric grease.
another thing to note is when I first get in the truck on cold start been about 25-30* here lately the pedal is at its worst and I cannot pump the pedal in the driveway 2-3 times to bring it up, I have to drive a few miles and after pressing the brakes a few times will notice I will be able to pump them again for a taller firmer pedal height
now we all know that cold contracts and heat will expand, I'm wondering if this is a key part in this issue
I had an old 7.3 idi f450 that I bypassed the RABS valve, I am seriously thinking about bypassing the 4 wheel abs on this truck to see if that rules it out and would probably just leave it that way
I am back at it, same problem as before, low but firm brake pedal truck will stop well, and if I hit the pedal 2-3 more times after the first push the pedal will be right at the top and wont really sink at all.
I'm wondering can a caliper bypass internally? I put new pads on the rear, all new tins on all 4 caliper brackets, front new rotors, front pads have good meat left on them, and new slide pins with dialectric grease.
another thing to note is when I first get in the truck on cold start been about 25-30* here lately the pedal is at its worst and I cannot pump the pedal in the driveway 2-3 times to bring it up, I have to drive a few miles and after pressing the brakes a few times will notice I will be able to pump them again for a taller firmer pedal height
now we all know that cold contracts and heat will expand, I'm wondering if this is a key part in this issue
I had an old 7.3 idi f450 that I bypassed the RABS valve, I am seriously thinking about bypassing the 4 wheel abs on this truck to see if that rules it out and would probably just leave it that way
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
Squeeze off the rears with a vise grip or something when the pedal is good. You may be able to then just use the front brakes. Maybe you'll get some clues?
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Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Upstate NY
gotta figure out what to cap the banjos with
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Upstate NY
right but if I clamp on that hose enough to collapse it wont that ruin the hose because there is steel inside of it, that may not bend back into place
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Upstate NY
Ok, I had to build some hydraulic hoses at work and they were all lined with steel, these were for mining equipment though
Ill try to clamp it off and see what happens ill use some needle nose vise grips with pipe over the ends so it won't cut
Ill try to clamp it off and see what happens ill use some needle nose vise grips with pipe over the ends so it won't cut
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
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From: Spanaway
way is to cap the line.
Sean ;-drink
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 544
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From: Jersey Shore Not Seaside!
Clamping a hose is always a risk for damage, but using pliers with square edges is just asking for trouble.
Calipers cannot bypass, only the master and ABS can. Here is a check for the ABS controller:
If you have done a lot of bleeding and taken the brake pedal close to floor with an older M/C you have have compromised a cup in the M/C. Under this type of failure multiple applies or a rapid push on the pedal keep the pedal high, but a slow application usually results in a long pedal.
Calipers cannot bypass, only the master and ABS can. Here is a check for the ABS controller:
If you have done a lot of bleeding and taken the brake pedal close to floor with an older M/C you have have compromised a cup in the M/C. Under this type of failure multiple applies or a rapid push on the pedal keep the pedal high, but a slow application usually results in a long pedal.