brake pedal woes
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,234
Likes: 2
From: Upstate NY
Im not sure how the pedal should feel since I bought the truck with this issue
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,234
Likes: 2
From: Upstate NY
The po of this truck never drove it in winter, it has sat for long periods of time, its a 2004 with 61k orig miles,
Honestly I hope its froze and replacing it fixes this issue, like I said I bought the truck with this issue so I don't know how its really supposed to feel, all my previous trucks(diesel) were hyrdaulic assisted braking systems and felt/stopped much better
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
A rotor that is wobbly will push the piston in too far causing the symptoms you say.
When you apply the brakes there is too much travel needed. If you reapply the needed travel is made up..You take your foot off the brakes and go down the road and the process begins again.Now if it happens without driving then the wobbling rotor theory is out. With air in the system hitting the pedal twice shouldn't matter..It shouldn't get better IMO.
Dick
When you apply the brakes there is too much travel needed. If you reapply the needed travel is made up..You take your foot off the brakes and go down the road and the process begins again.Now if it happens without driving then the wobbling rotor theory is out. With air in the system hitting the pedal twice shouldn't matter..It shouldn't get better IMO.
Dick
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 544
Likes: 2
From: Jersey Shore Not Seaside!
While a rotor that has a lot of runout can excessively kickback the pads too far, it would have to be an excessive runout to cause a half pedal.
As before, air in the ABS will cause a long pedal that pumps up higher.
A pull to one side can come from issues on either side of the axle, so you have to check both. While it’s logical that a frozen slide or piston will not let one side of the axle’s brake work as hard, a situation where a brake pad stays in contact with the rotor so it heats up during travel will have the vehicle pull to that side due to the disparity in friction material temperature. A quick check, but not infallible, is if the pulls occurs right when the vehicle first moves it’s a frozen part. If it pulls after going down the road a ways, it’s pulling to the heating up side.
As before, air in the ABS will cause a long pedal that pumps up higher.
A pull to one side can come from issues on either side of the axle, so you have to check both. While it’s logical that a frozen slide or piston will not let one side of the axle’s brake work as hard, a situation where a brake pad stays in contact with the rotor so it heats up during travel will have the vehicle pull to that side due to the disparity in friction material temperature. A quick check, but not infallible, is if the pulls occurs right when the vehicle first moves it’s a frozen part. If it pulls after going down the road a ways, it’s pulling to the heating up side.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Upstate NY
Alright guys, ice, snow has been on the ground so I have activated the abs quite a few times purposely, bled brakes again and no air has come out, so that part is out I would say
there is a bad pulsating from the front when hitting brakes, so new rotors and pads will be in order
pedal will no longer build pressure higher if pumped a second time, and no longer pulls to one side when under heavy braking
just a low solid pedal, does not sink, does not pump up
so far
Brake flush
bled after activating abs dozen times
rear pads, slide pins free and greased
turned brake booster pushrod counter clockwise 1 1/4 turns
next on list
front pads/rotors which is definetly needed, whole front of truck shakes when brakes applied
I dont feel brake hose replacement is necessary
master and brake booster are in good health
feel free to comment some more haha, truck is my daily driver and I'm really starting to miss my hydraulic assisted diesel trucks
I plan on doing front pads/rotors tomorrow to get rid of the shimmy when braking
there is a bad pulsating from the front when hitting brakes, so new rotors and pads will be in order
pedal will no longer build pressure higher if pumped a second time, and no longer pulls to one side when under heavy braking
just a low solid pedal, does not sink, does not pump up
so far
Brake flush
bled after activating abs dozen times
rear pads, slide pins free and greased
turned brake booster pushrod counter clockwise 1 1/4 turns
next on list
front pads/rotors which is definetly needed, whole front of truck shakes when brakes applied
I dont feel brake hose replacement is necessary
master and brake booster are in good health
feel free to comment some more haha, truck is my daily driver and I'm really starting to miss my hydraulic assisted diesel trucks
I plan on doing front pads/rotors tomorrow to get rid of the shimmy when braking
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,234
Likes: 2
From: Upstate NY
reps have been sent to all helping me out, have to spread around before I can rep again
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Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,234
Likes: 2
From: Upstate NY
I am on a tight budget
however brake systems are not something to cheap on
also I was wondering could a caliper fail internally? causing fluid to bypass and not have optimal hydraulic pressure
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
I look at the pins and piston seals.. Also how the piston pushes back in. Sometimes you can tell when one is binding. Make sure both wheels release when brake is released///wheels off the ground..both have the same drag//slight. Make sure the pads slide in their places easily. Rust can really show up here and cause drag issues. I ended up getting all four for my 99...Advance auto parts rebuilts were not pricey..They price match also.
Good luck..
Dick
Good luck..
Dick
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,234
Likes: 2
From: Upstate NY
I look at the pins and piston seals.. Also how the piston pushes back in. Sometimes you can tell when one is binding. Make sure both wheels release when brake is released///wheels off the ground..both have the same drag//slight. Make sure the pads slide in their places easily. Rust can really show up here and cause drag issues. I ended up getting all four for my 99...Advance auto parts rebuilts were not pricey..They price match also.
Good luck..
Dick
Good luck..
Dick
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 544
Likes: 2
From: Jersey Shore Not Seaside!
If it doesn't change height on the second pump anymore then air is no longer an issue. Air can come up from the controller to the M/C and into the reservoir after ABS activity, so you might not see it when bleeding.
If the caliper pistons all push in relatively equally in force then they should be fine as long as they don't show evidence of fluid leakage.
Any idea if this is the original M/C?
If the caliper pistons all push in relatively equally in force then they should be fine as long as they don't show evidence of fluid leakage.
Any idea if this is the original M/C?
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,234
Likes: 2
From: Upstate NY
If it doesn't change height on the second pump anymore then air is no longer an issue. Air can come up from the controller to the M/C and into the reservoir after ABS activity, so you might not see it when bleeding.
If the caliper pistons all push in relatively equally in force then they should be fine as long as they don't show evidence of fluid leakage.
Any idea if this is the original M/C?
If the caliper pistons all push in relatively equally in force then they should be fine as long as they don't show evidence of fluid leakage.
Any idea if this is the original M/C?
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 544
Likes: 2
From: Jersey Shore Not Seaside!
Pump up would only be air; slow drop would be M/C cup failure.
Did you check the booster rod adjustment? The direction I am going to is that while OE is very careful to manufacture the apply piston dimensions to a close tolerance to meet the projection spec that I uploaded, the forums have seen some aftermarket parts not to spec. As I noted earlier, that adjustment is critical in keeping the compensate ports open but too much clearance allows for too much travel.
You still need to check the front brakes though. Slide pins, pistons, even pads stuck in the brackets can cause your issues.
Did you check the booster rod adjustment? The direction I am going to is that while OE is very careful to manufacture the apply piston dimensions to a close tolerance to meet the projection spec that I uploaded, the forums have seen some aftermarket parts not to spec. As I noted earlier, that adjustment is critical in keeping the compensate ports open but too much clearance allows for too much travel.
You still need to check the front brakes though. Slide pins, pistons, even pads stuck in the brackets can cause your issues.