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brake pedal woes

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Old Mar 18, 2013 | 08:46 AM
  #46  
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You can use a wood clamp or a vice grip for metal bending..Been doing it for 30 years no problems..I live in the rusty brake line world so always working on mine or customers cars on the brakes.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2013 | 12:10 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by fmtrvt
Clamping a hose is always a risk for damage, but using pliers with square edges is just asking for trouble.

Calipers cannot bypass, only the master and ABS can. Here is a check for the ABS controller:

If you have done a lot of bleeding and taken the brake pedal close to floor with an older M/C you have have compromised a cup in the M/C. Under this type of failure multiple applies or a rapid push on the pedal keep the pedal high, but a slow application usually results in a long pedal.
Thanks for this response I will try the abs test and test the master from what you say it seems like the master will be the culprit
 
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Old Mar 18, 2013 | 12:12 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by 99f350sd
You can use a wood clamp or a vice grip for metal bending..Been doing it for 30 years no problems..I live in the rusty brake line world so always working on mine or customers cars on the brakes.
Yeah what I was thinking was vise grips with steel pipe over the jaws so its a smooth round surface pinching the line but I'm going to check the abs unit and master first
 
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Old Mar 18, 2013 | 12:16 PM
  #49  
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Some copper tube unions work well,
 
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Old Mar 18, 2013 | 01:44 PM
  #50  
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Okay so I put paper clips in the ports of the abs valve where I pulled off the rubber grommets and they did not move I tried hitting the brake pedal while the truck was running and nothing so that mean my abs is healthy right?

So next step would be the master
 
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Old Mar 18, 2013 | 02:18 PM
  #51  
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If you blocked off the rear to eliminate it.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 01:02 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by 99f350sd
If you blocked off the rear to eliminate it.
Turned out to be the master cylinder guys

Got a new one from advance and bled the brakes, 100 times better hopefully it holds up
 
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 04:08 PM
  #53  
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Usually is. Glad you got it working.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 05:44 PM
  #54  
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Good to here you found the problem...Most times the master is changed its not the problem though..
 
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 12:19 AM
  #55  
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I can't believe this, this plague has come back

Over the last couple weeks the peddle has gotten lower and lower slowly until I realized it was back to where it was in the first place, so I suspected the Chinese master cylinder failed because what else could it be? I replaced it the first time and the pedal was firm and at the top, went and got a replacement from advance and installed it, the pedal is better than it was earlier with the blown master, but no where near what it was the last time I replaced it

Fresh fluid no air in the system and I adjusted the head space between the master plunger and brake booster rod because it was different between the two, also I lifted the truck spun tires and there is no drag

This is going to drive me crazy I don't know what else could cause this, I should've just went with a ford master cylinder
 
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