Does anyone have any tricks to getting the stator down thru the armature ( I hope I am using the correct terms ) and into the tiny brushes all the way at the end.

I learned a trick the other day which I am going to share although I have yet to try it myself but will do so tomm

I am just curious what you guys have come up with, I know pictures would help but I do not have any this second.

 

Some motors have holes for pins to hold the brushes back. Some allow the brushes to go in last.

 

Ok well maybe not as unique of an idea as I thought but I was told to drill two small holes on the end cover and hold back the brushes with a paper clip. My eyes lit up when I was told this, I thought it was a great idea that I would not have considered.

 

Actually, it is a good idea. I struggled with a motor recently that didn't have the holes and could have used the idea. Thanks! Reps to you.

 

OMG yo mean I did something good, I contributed something??? Dont tell anyone...just kidding , private joke maybe. Glad you like it

 

Here is how I did it this A.M ......just to give some background this is a brand new electric motor I purchased hoping that it would fit and work within the blower housing of my 52 Majic air heater assy.

As far as I know there has been no replacement motor found for these specific heaters that will directly bolt in and I guess technically this is no exception but I do believe I am closer with this one than anyone else has been on this site.

Prob with finding the correct motor is getting the correct size, correct configuration, two speed and CCW rotation.

I knew buying the motor that the studs that hold the case together had to be reversed, I needed the threaded portion toward the rear because that is how it bolts into the case but I did ask the rep when I called about the motor if this was possible and her response was that she has heard that this was a common thing to do with these motors so it should not be a problem.....it was not this easy which I think you will understand better as I get into this.

Here is where I started this A.M



I know the pictures are not the greatest but if you closely at the first one you will see two tiny holes that I have drilled just forward of the brush holders.

Here is the rear of the case with holes drilled.

I used those two small rivets instead of paper clips because of their stamina and their heads gave me a little bit something for my fingers to grab onto.

Obviously every motor is going to be a little different, I had a heck of a time drilling because these small bits are usually very short so I had to set it in my drill chuck waaay out and secondly the bearing located direct center has a pretty good sized cage on it so I not only found myself drilling thru two levels of that but also of course the outer case itself had to be penetrated.

Here is a picture though with brushes in place and rivets popping thru supporting them this is not easy for me, I am not fond of this delicate work, maybe someone could have done it faster and more efficiently but after this it was just a matter of dropping the stator down inside and pulling out the rivets.

One thing I would like some clarification on that I think I have figured out would be this single loose strand of wire and this connector located dead center bent down.

If you look closely you will see a tiny notch cut out of that connector on the side, amazingly the wire has a slit or notch in it and these two will engage themselves. When I pulled all this apart I thought to myself ...now the motors junk but looking closer at it there is not any hint of solder to keep these two things together and the connector absolutely dead ends right where it sits

The problem I initially had when taking apart the motor was that there was an internal nut at this location that had zero access of course to get ahold of when trying to initially remove and reverse the studs so the nut just falls inside the motor.

I am thinking that this nut that you can now see attached again and the connector which I am assuming is supposed to rub up against the nut and the wire which sits down into the notch is what provides the ground for this motor.

What are your opinions?

I am shocked that this hokey design was employed if this is the case but there are some other issues that I would not have put into place within the motor as well myself, I guess all of these are job security?

I maybe should have and possibly could have soldered this tiny wire to this tiny terminal and then to the tiny nut but surprisingly the tension all all of these items if set up properly is surprisingly strong and so I don't foresee any of these little pieces coming out of contact with one another under normal circumstances.

I would guess though that if the motor were dropped and if just the right shock were to reverberate throughout the motor there is a possibility of one of these items dislodging and the motor to stop working.

Anyway all put back together studs facing the correct direction.

I would like to test it obviously before I do a final install, I am going to assume with what I have mentioned above that to test it would be a simple matter of connecting a negative battery terminal to the case and applying power to either of the two wires coming out of the motor but I would like your opinions first before doing this just so I am safer.

The motor was I think roughly 45 dollars with shipping so maybe I can and have still saved it. Thanks

 

Good job on that. But, like you, I don't like the wire and connector. Doesn't seem right. I think I'd be asking a lot of questions, and maybe from the people who sold it to you.

Also, when you hook that motor up you to test it you MUST have it held in some fashion as it will try to go everywhere. Large tiewraps to a board would do, or maybe installed in the heater box. But not just laying on the bench.

 

I could not wait, I immediately went out and tested it with the jump box, works great, the only problem is that it rotates in a clockwise rotation!

Unfortunately I had brake fluid on my hands at one point when I picked it up so of course the identification sticker ink came right off so I cant even verify if they sent me the wrong motor, it will work clockside just not blow as much air which is really not what I wanted.

I will call them and see what they have to say, prob. tell me to pound sand though since I cant even prove its the same motor they send since the ink has dissapeared from their label.

 

Won't it rotate backwards if you reverse the leads?

 

Unless I am missing something its grounded thru the body, the leads are for high and low speeds, I have tried them both and it is high and low.

 

Ahhh! I knew it had to be complicated and that I was missing something. Check out the wires to the brushes - can they be reversed?

 

I do not think there is a chance of that, the brush wires were routed thru the brush holders so even putting them back in the correct configuration within their holder was sort of a brainless feat.

I called the company I purchased the motor from, she was very cordial and is at this point testing the same version of the motor she sent me to see if there was possibly a misprint within their add concerning its rotation.

If they send me another motor that revolves in the correct direction than great, if they do not than I will use the motor as is, I live in Fl so little chance of ever needing a heater but it was just the idea of having everything operate as closely to correct as I could get it.

 

Good luck. Sounds like they might work with you.