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I fully expected to shorten the driveshaft on my sons 96 F250 when we swapped out the IFS for the D60. I had seen post where some people said they used the stock shaft. We pretty much wrapped everything up tonight except the driveshaft and the alignment but I was able to mount the driveshaft. It had only about 1/4" of rearward movement availible. since the shackles swing forward and we installed new poly spring bushings in the swap is this 1/4" safe?
I plan on cutting it tomorrow but heck if its good to go why bother?
Theres not even 2" of TOTAL movement availible? No matter how i shorten it? Heck the entire axle can only move 2" up before it makes solid contact with the bump stop and in that time its moving forward (however slightly)was well due to the forward movemnet of the shackles. Based on the angle of the driveshaft, ignoring forward movement, and some simple trig the axle would need to come unbolted to even need an more than 1/2" to the rear.
In fact I went out and measured my Highly flexible EB after I read this and it has a TOTAL of 1-1/2".
You only need enough to makes sure that it doesn't ever bottom out and damage the transfer case.
I'd get more than 1/2" travel. You're basing this on the assumption that you don't have flexible metal springs holding the front of the truck up, but just solid steel bars that can move forward.
That is not the case. Leaf springs are springs. Being springs they can bend, twist and contort into all sorts of shapes and positions. I would not doubt it for a second that on some good sized potholes at speed (or some mild off-roading), the springs could allow the axle to move back more than 1/2 inch.
Don't forget that the engine and transmission are also rubber mounted and are somewhat free to move around. These old OBS chassis are not all that stiff and tend to really flex as well. Under the right conditions, I could easily see that 1/2" of slack getting taken up just from frame and drive train movement.
Is a $$$$ transfercase worth saving $100 at a driveshaft shop?
When I was having a driveshaft made for my 95 4x4 short box,I was told to place the shaft into the transfer case all the way,then move it back 1 inch and make my measurements,my new shaft has been in for over a year and no issues,hope this helps
When I was having a driveshaft made for my 95 4x4 short box,I was told to place the shaft into the transfer case all the way,then move it back 1 inch and make my measurements,my new shaft has been in for over a year and no issues,hope this helps
I was going to just measure the total divide it by two and then subtract 1/4" and cut that amount out of it that way it wouldpretty much be centered.
I'd get more than 1/2" travel. You're basing this on the assumption that you don't have flexible metal springs holding the front of the truck up, but just solid steel bars that can move forward.
That is not the case. Leaf springs are springs. Being springs they can bend, twist and contort into all sorts of shapes and positions. I would not doubt it for a second that on some good sized potholes at speed (or some mild off-roading), the springs could allow the axle to move back more than 1/2 inch.
Don't forget that the engine and transmission are also rubber mounted and are somewhat free to move around. These old OBS chassis are not all that stiff and tend to really flex as well. Under the right conditions, I could easily see that 1/2" of slack getting taken up just from frame and drive train movement.
Is a $$$$ transfercase worth saving $100 at a driveshaft shop?
the reason I started this in the first place. I never felt comfortable with 1/4" but I can see that it might actually work. The drivedshaft angle is slight and the axle really cant move up enough to bottom out the joint in normall operation but if he slams into something I bet he would mess up the t-case.
If it hadnt rained today it would already be done.
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