this for my '75 rebuild. I have the original cab (pro's. original, a/c, no dents) (con's. rotted floors, snaps around the rear window)

or I have the red '76 cab (pro's. good floors) (con's. some dents, rear corner has some rot, non-a/c)

I will be having a/c in it and a color change to lime green.

 

'76

 

If it ere me, I would try to fix the '75 cab. If you mess up, use the '76.

 

I would use the red cab, less floor rust and you can always cut the hole for the air conditioner if you want to use the factory one. Dash panel for air can be put in the red one. My $.02 worth.

 

The blue one doesn't look that bad to me. I'd use that one. I think you're looking at the same amount of work to fix the blue or convert the other one over to A/C and make the minor repairs that one needs. Since it looks like the work part is a wash, I'd go with the one that the VIN matches.

 

I agree with most of these guys. Keep the blue. I'm in the same situation myself right now. I was contemplating on either keeping my cab on the truck or getting another. The cab on my truck has bad floors under the feet and in the bottom rear area.

So, I cut-out most of the rotted material and this weekend we are going to start welding new floor panels and sheet metal into it. After the weldings done, I am going to sand the floor down and put a couple coats of chassis-saver on it. I'll top it off with some other material, havn't decided what yet.

I had a few people tell me to get another cab but other than the floors theres nothing wrong with it. If you have the equipment, capabilities, and a warm place to work/weld why not just fix the floors.

 

I also agree with fixing the blue one, unless the rot is getting into the rocker panels and cab mounts. Floor pans are pretty easy to put in. The snap holes can be easily welded shut. The red cab, if one corner is rotted, the other is probably going to need replacing as well. Grind down to metal and see what is there. While cab corners are not hard to replace either, just a little more body work involved to get things lined up. Cutting the hole for A/C isn't a big deal and you already have a donor cab for the hole template to cut and the parts. I do think though, when you think about hours involved, the floor pans and welding the snap holes shut will be much less work than the red cab. Floor pans, you don't have to worry too much about cosmetics as you do with cab corners. Again, with the blue cab, sand down the corners to make sure they are good and no pin holes. It's amazing what seems good, but ends up being rusted out. On my 77, when I got the cab all it seemed to need was floor pans and the corners looked great until the paint came off and their were pin holes. Same for my 75 supercab. One corner looked solid, but I could easily stick a screwdriver through it once I saw some pin hole rust.

 

Sounds like the vote is unanimous I would go with the blue one as well... Id the floor pans are good on the red cab and if the red cab is a junker you could cut those floor pans out to replace the rotted ones. Saving yourself some time and money

 

Thanks everyone! I've had the truck apart a year and am excited to get it rumbling again.

 

I missed the part about the red cab corner rust ,so i change my mind and agree with the rest. Pop those floor panels out and use the blue cab. I had one with bad cab corners once and they can be harder to replace than the floor.

 

Especially with crappy quality aftermarket repair corners. I just replaced some on my super cab and they were not fun.

 

I am actually ordering cab corners soon. Are there better aftermarket corners than others?....I was going to order from LMC.

 

I would base my decision on the roof, drip rail areas, and windshield/rear window seams. Both cabs look to have surface rust on the roof which although only "surface rust" can be a bear to clean up. Media blasting is really the only option in my book, naval jelly or other phosphoric acid approaches seem to take forever. Either way, the roof is a big panel and is easy to warp whether you are blasting or sanding. If the drip rails are suspect the roof has to come off to properly repair. Rust in the windshield and rear window seams will come back to bite you down the road with leaks that will ultimately rot the floors out again.

In my opinion cab corners, floors, cab mounts, etc. are much less time consuming to repair than the above mentioned items.

 

Honestly, I don't think so. I ordered mine from Mill Supply. Seemed like a decent gauge steel. I wasn't too impressed with the fit, but they weren't bad, just required a little bit of hammering in some spots while tack welding to get close. Others have had good luck with the regular cab corners though.

 

Flashback f100 give these folks a try,actually I have bought floors from them and i think you wont find better
USA Made Steel Made Repair Panels