Broken shock mount...
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 15
From: Central Ohio
Broken shock mount...
Well after wrestling trying to get this shock off it finally came off but with an extra piece still attached.
What should I do? Do I really need the support on that side or will the other side be enough? Its just a beater truck to me but I do often drive it to work. I'd try and weld it but my welding skills arent that great and I don't think my little stick welder has enough heat for that.
Any other tricks to getting that bolt out before I break the other side?
What should I do? Do I really need the support on that side or will the other side be enough? Its just a beater truck to me but I do often drive it to work. I'd try and weld it but my welding skills arent that great and I don't think my little stick welder has enough heat for that.
Any other tricks to getting that bolt out before I break the other side?
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,517
Likes: 3
From: SE Wyoming
Have to have both sides or it will break very fast. Had one of those on a '93 that I welded back on every few years, hardest part is getting it on straight with everything else. If you have a shock that has no more pressure left to it, it would work good to hold it in place to tack weld.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 15
From: Central Ohio
Ok well I was able to drive out the bolt from withing the rubber bushing and then heat up the metal bushing for a while until I could drive the bolt through. So I got the tab off. Might just try my best to tack weld it back together.
The other side... came off with no resistance.
The other side... came off with no resistance.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,694
Likes: 45
From: La Ribera, Baja, Mexico
Just discovered this has happened on my '93 F250 4x4. Ford obviously did not design the part well enough to stand up. Granted, I use my truck in Baja, but mostly on their roads with a few miles on the dirt. 220K miles on it, so can't really complain, but I do have a 1967 factory High Boy, F250 4x4, and the shock mounts are still on after using it for 44 years in Baja... way pre pavement and good road.. They just fon't build them like they used to..
My solution is to find some, in good shape, from a junk yard, and weld support gussets to the shock bolt mounts. Mine broke like yours did, and I now feel like they all break at the same weak point. Its just a stamped piece of metal, not forged like the later ones.
Hope you have fixed your also
bajafishnut
My solution is to find some, in good shape, from a junk yard, and weld support gussets to the shock bolt mounts. Mine broke like yours did, and I now feel like they all break at the same weak point. Its just a stamped piece of metal, not forged like the later ones.
Hope you have fixed your also
bajafishnut
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: owensboro,KY
I had the exact same thing happen on a '97 i used to have. I just cleaned the dirt and grime off, scuffed it and where it broke with a wire brush. Then welded it back. The weld looked like crap. I think there was still some dirt in the pores of the metal. It held up great. I drove the truck 3 yrs after that with no issues, and did plenty of offroading/rough gravel expeditions.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,694
Likes: 45
From: La Ribera, Baja, Mexico
Thanks for the feedback..
I found a good pair, off a '97 and have bought them for $50 clams for the pair. I will weld gussets to reinforce both shock mount 'ears', using some 3/8" plate, cut into triangles, and fitted to the shock bolt mount and the plate. I will use 7018 rod, and lay it on deep and heavy. After reinforcing, and painting, I can change them both out in the same operation, with minimum down time.
Since this seems to be a fairly common failure, I suggest that readers do some sort of reinforcing, to avoid a potential failure in the field.
Baja
I found a good pair, off a '97 and have bought them for $50 clams for the pair. I will weld gussets to reinforce both shock mount 'ears', using some 3/8" plate, cut into triangles, and fitted to the shock bolt mount and the plate. I will use 7018 rod, and lay it on deep and heavy. After reinforcing, and painting, I can change them both out in the same operation, with minimum down time.
Since this seems to be a fairly common failure, I suggest that readers do some sort of reinforcing, to avoid a potential failure in the field.
Baja
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,694
Likes: 45
From: La Ribera, Baja, Mexico
Thanks for the weld tip. If I am using the used plate/brackets from the '97 doner, and clean it up with a wire wheel, so that all rust is removed, then use new steel for the gussets, do you still recommend 6011 for the root pass?
I also have some 'Magic Rod' labeled UTP612, which welds anything, in any position.. but its pricy $$$ so I usually save it for "must hold and in difficult position' jobs.
Baja
I also have some 'Magic Rod' labeled UTP612, which welds anything, in any position.. but its pricy $$$ so I usually save it for "must hold and in difficult position' jobs.
Baja
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