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Dual alternator replacement

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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 09:36 AM
  #16  
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Wow, thanks for the pics! That will definitely be a problem! I'm calling DC Power now to have him make sure the second one he sends will fit that... so I tell him I need it in a 4G style case with the six rib pulley and the 4G style plug...
 
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 10:04 AM
  #17  
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Ok, I read the link posted earlier by Josh about just dropping to one alternator instead of running two... what are the benefits to doing that? What are the problems with doing that? The truck in question will eventually have a 12,000# electric winch added to it, and will probably also have a heavy-duty DC/AC inverter hooked up as well. So it could have a lot of power draw.

Assuming one did convert from two alternators to one, I assume the secondary alt just stays in place and spins in order to hold the belt, even though it's not hooked up? Or would I have to buy a pulley and bracket system to replace it? Or a smaller belt that wouldn't hook to it?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 10:10 AM
  #18  
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If you have the means keep the dual alternators.

Just make sure it is 4G small case with 6 rib pulley.

Josh
 
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 10:27 AM
  #19  
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I prefer the dual set up, if one fails, you can still run the truck until it can be fixed. Sort of a "fail safe" for your FICM and injectors.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 11:35 AM
  #20  
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Ok, so DC Power doesn't sell anything in the 4G case... so I guess I'll try Carquest and see if I can find something that way. Worst case, would y'all recommend Tousley or should I try and find something else aftermarket, like from PA Performance? Or should I just leave the existing secondary and just replace the primary??? Would a bad secondary kill my primary?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 11:39 AM
  #21  
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Carquest had it for $230 and they'll have it here tomorrow morning... just going that route for it. Thanks for all the help, guys!
 
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 11:47 AM
  #22  
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Could have gotten a 270 amp alternator from Tenney for about $300.

Are you replacing both alts just because or they both failed?

Josh
 
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 12:17 PM
  #23  
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Well, I'm replacing both just because... I don't know which failed (or for sure that one actually failed). When they brought me the truck (it was a donation) they said they had it checked out and that the mechanic said it was in great shape with the exception of the alternator. When I plugged in AE, it gave me a DTC for the alternator as well. In addition, it takes 4-5 minutes of high idle before the alternator kicks up to anything over 11 V, and it often drops down to 9 or 10 V at first start. As a result, I've had it run the batteries down pretty severely several times when doing multiple short runs (I've started just letting it idle for a while even if I don't need to). I just don't want to risk FICM damage... figured it'd be cheaper/easier to just replace the alternator(s) and avoid FICM/Injector trouble...

So it'll have a 110 Amp alternator in the bottom from Carquest and a 185 Amp alternator in the top from DC Power.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 01:25 PM
  #24  
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How long is a dual alternator replacement supposed to take? From looking at the ford shop manual it looks like an hour tops... The guy at my shop is telling me his Mitchell service guide says four hours...
 
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