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Very high temperature flexible material?

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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 02:52 AM
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Very high temperature flexible material?

I am working on a project that requires a reed valve able to withstand 1100-1500f for as long as possible. I have ruled out stainless pretty much completely (most alloys lose their temper at 400-500f). Carbon-carbon looks potentially promising, but in dealing with carbon fiber reeds I have seen less of a lifespan than I want, plus the resin is the temperature limiting factor. I have tried researching titanium, but haven't found a whole lot. I know most of those alloys have a good fatigue life, but I haven't been able to find tempering info on them.
I know there is a quite diverse crowd here, and hopefully someone can provide some real first hand info on this.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 10:25 AM
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If you can use this stuff to shape what you need, It may work for you. It can handle up to 2,000 degrees.

Heat Stop
 
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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 01:02 PM
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Titanium would be ok with the heat, it's used for TIG welding tips, but too brittle for a reed. The ti tips snap easily if you try to bend them. It would have to be some kind of alloy, but not a metal engineer so don't know what would work. Good luck.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 07:06 PM
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My TIG welding tips are Tungsten not Titanium
 
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Old Jan 7, 2013 | 12:43 AM
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Not that I really know anything about the subject, but...

F-16s have something on their exhaust nozzles called "turkey feathers" which do something to the aerodynamics. These appear to be thin and withstand a good deal of heat.

I just looked over at the F-16 forum ( f-16.net)and the thread I checked quated security reasons for not discussing the material. However, one of the posts mentioned that the Pratt and Whitney 229 ( one of the engine options, I believe) had black turkey feathers made from carbon fiber. Maybe or maybe not, but whatever is used might suit your needs -- and some of that info may be available.

I also wondered about the old V-1 buzz bomb. It used a pulsed jet engine that had some kind of a valve. Might not have needed to last too long however.

Good Luck,

hj
 
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Old Jan 7, 2013 | 01:20 AM
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Some good thoughts here- And yes, TIG electrodes are tungsten, not titanium, and that material is very brittle. I hadn't thought of the variable exhaust nozzles. A little bit of research is turning up talk of heat resistant coatings and high failure rates so I'll have to dig a bit more in it.
Buzz bombs and similar pulse jets use a reed valve that is exposed to combustion temperatures, but it's an air inlet so it gets cooled by that. On this, it will see typically 600-800 continuously, with bursts as high as 1500, and occasional sustained highs of 1100-1200 for a few minutes. It will also need to cycle at up to 85 times a second, and sustained rates of around 50 times per second for up to hours at any given time.
I may have to get some titanium of various alloys and see how it behaves under high temperatures.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2013 | 05:01 AM
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Maybe contact your local big university's engineering department---they might be helpful? Since you already have the parameters it needs to meet they could probably hone right in on something suitable.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2013 | 08:15 AM
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Here's some info on spring steel, which may help?... I have this bookmarked as i plan to make my own pulse jet some day.




Just curious, what are you making?
 
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Old Jan 7, 2013 | 08:31 AM
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You might want to look into Inconel as well.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2013 | 09:34 PM
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I hadn't thought of Inconel, and I have worked with that stuff. I used to be certified to weld that stuff too. I'll have to do some research.
That pulse jet valve cutting method was pretty slick. Spring steel would work briefly, but once things got over about 600f it wouldn't return properly.
This is an exhaust reed valve in an experimental engine. I'm looking to make a high power density, high efficiency engine for a bike or snowmobile. The valve will have a turbo right after it so if it comes apart it'll get expensive fast.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2013 | 11:41 PM
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Some digging around shows that Inconel 750 will most likely fit the bill, and it looks like I can use a cutting method similar to that shown in the video cigarxtc posted. This just might work. I'm going to have hours and hours of machining work and more design stuff, but this was one of the major stumbling blocks for this project.
 
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