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The hookers have a flange that ties the two together
And use a ball type connector instead of a gasket
Those may be easier to install, you may get away with not pulling the motor almost all the way out.
I bet the starter is still captured in there though
Those look damn good! I always thought of putting long tubes on my six..but i went with the dual efi exhaust instead. I wish I could find a set that wouldn't sacrifice my starter..and that I wouldnt have to modify so the flanges would fit with my offy intake.
Clifford has a set, but they're about $450. Of course, you get what you pay for. I have the $200 Hedmann full-length header on my truck. To be honest, I wasn't really happy with the quality. The flange is thinner than my intake flange so I had to make some step washers to hold it on. The tubes extend past the flange and IMO don't make a very good seal to the head. I have an exhaust leak at the head that I can't get rid of that I think is due to the tubes extending past the flange. I should have ground the tubes flush to the flange, but I didn't want to remake the step washers. The Hedmann headers aren't coated and mine started rusting almost immediately. They also sit super close to the starter and will probably burn it up pretty quick. And that'll be a real pain because the header traps the starter, so I'll have to take the header off to even get to the starter.
A lot of guys run the EFI exhaust manifolds, they're usually about $80 on Ebay or Craigslist. You have to do a little bit of grinding on them but it's not anything really significant. Guys say they flow about as well as a full-length header too.
The advantage to those headers is that you probably won't have to drop the starter to get the headers between the motor and the frame rail. With any of the single-piece full length headers, the starter has to be dropped to get the header down and you have to drop the header to get to the starter.
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