I need some advice and I believe it will be entry level questions, nothing complicated but would like to ask first if anyone has had any experience in an upholstery shop because I dont want problems down the road with an opinion that may or may not be good and then I have a bunch of wasted material. Thanks

 

I do actually, from 2005-2007 replacing headliners, seat covers (bench & bucket), entire carpets in new and late model fords as far back as 87 at a Ford dealership. I can try and help the best I can, whats up?

Edit: I still do upholstery sometimes on the side given the parts are all there ahead of time and supplied by the customer or by me at interest of 7-10% (depending on thier attitude).

 

Thanks, I am sure this will be easy for you, I may have to provide you with better pictures which is not an issue, the doors on my 52 have this panel ( you will see it in this picture as the black upper trim panel )

This panel is removable from the door by removing two screws, one in each lower corner ( they are not present in this picture ) and then lifting straight up, it has a lip welded onto the door and a corresponding ( I know this is a crappy picture ) lip on the backside of the panel. These lips are only at the top of the panel, again the bottom portion is held onto door by the two lower screws.

There is also supposed to be a lower trim panel but I never received this and so just cut out some aluminum sheet to fill the holes and regardless of the picture it looks pretty nice

I bought this imitation ( if there is such a thing ) vinyl at the fabric store along with some batting to cover these upper panels in.

I do not any longer think though that there ever was any batting or padding behind the vinyl. These panels are not the place that really have anything rested on so they would not have been originally cushioned I am thinking.

I would like to ask you the best way to adhere/place this vinyl onto these panels and have them stay.

I have read that in some cases set the panel in the sun so it stretches ect but I do not think that is the case with this manufactured material I am using.

I see on whats left of the original vinyl panel that it appears that they wrapped these, tucked the excess under and somehow stapled it all together.

I do not have the luxury of having special upholstery equipment, I am thinking that there has to be a rattle can spray that I can apply to the metal panel, apply to the backside of the material, let get tacky and then stick it on, roll it over the edge and down the backside a bit and done never have to worry about it again, sorta like headliner spray adhesive.

I dont know what this glue would be though, maybe I am going about it all wrong, you tell me. Thanks for your time.

 

I've dabbled in upholstery quite a few times (not only just putting new covers on, but making new ones and also custom carpet and vinyl work). Also doing a bunch of vinyl work in my project truck.

The problem I've seen is some of the adhesives will release with heat. The interior of vehicles can get rather hot and that heat will basically release the glue. I've tried 3Ms High Strength 90, and that's one that heat will effect. My next try is going to be 3Ms High Tack 76. At $30 a can, it better work. Your basic contact cement is more of a general purpose glue. Not sure how it would work in an interior. I can't remember what kind of spray adhesive I used to use for most projects (used to get it in 40 lb. pressure cans). Once it was on, it wasn't coming off.

For bonding to aluminum, sand the sheet with a D/A with 100-120 grit. That will increase the bonding surface making the glue more effective. Use TWO light to medium coats on both surfaces and allow to dry according to what kind you use, then lay the sheet on. It may be easier to leave the vinyl on the floor, then with another person, hold the aluminum over the vinyl, center it up, then lay one side down and "roll" it to the other side, flexing the alum.

From the pic you provided, it looks like you are using the more rigid, less flexible kind, like for marine use. You could also use a rolling pin to help press the alum. sheet on to the vinyl. Or with another person, attach one edge of the vinyl and use the rolling pin to roll it out to the other side, working from center, out.

Get the main flat attached first, then worry about rolling the edges to the back later. Take your time, and it'll come out just fine. There's plenty of working time with any of the adhesives.

 

Ok thanks but I am not bonding to aluminum but instead the steel panel that will be directly above it.

As far as I can see you dont mention what type of adhesive will actually stay put so hopefully someone else will chime in and we can talk about our experiences with said adhesive.

I am only doing these two small panels at this point which might measure at most 8 inches up down tops and maybe 24 inches wide so I cant justify spending a ton of money on glue that would not be used.

 

Years ago I redid an the interior or our Cessna. We used Duraseam Trim Cement that we got from them. Aircraft interiors get really hot sitting on the tarmac with all those windows and aluminum, but that stuff never let go. It's like $15 for a can, a pint I think. Anyway, not terribly expensive. You can find it: Airtex Interiors Catalogue at the bottom of the page. Maybe that will help.
Good luck.

 

Most of the trucks of that era I have done, I take a piece of hard panel board (similar to Masonite) And cut it to what shape I want for the door. I then drill holes in the panel board, and into the door, in those I use plastic anchor pins similar to the ones in the new door panels. These I mount in the board.

Take your material, and cut it 2" larger than your panel.

Use 3m spray adhesive, and spray the panel, then spray the back of the material. Let it tack up, and put it on the panel. You now have to stretch the material, and then roll it around the back edge, fastening it with a shallow staple. More staples, makes a better hold, less, the sun will eventually draw the material out from behind the panel. Cross to the opposite side, pull it tight, then staple. Go to side not done, tighten . staple, go to last side, tighten, staple.

Lie it on it's back, and use a bread roller, to smooth out any air bubbles, then leave it sit for a few days. cut any holes then by using a sharp razor, making an x, then pull back the ends, glue and staple.

When your all done with the doors, line the pins sticking out of the back of your panel with the holes you drilled, and push the pins in. You can remove the panel if you use something to pry it back out, but only 2 or 3 times, then the pins wear out

I have pictures of this process, but not in the computer, If needed, I can scan them, and put them up.

You are not limited to just the 2 areas you spoke of, you can make the panel for the whole door if you want.


I also do kick panels, and head liners the same way.

 

Thanks guys, a few more things to consider, I have used the 3M spray adhesive but have had it lift over time, I may try the airtex mentioned.

 

I'm late in my response but 3M has never let me down for my applications. The aircraft adhesive does seem to be the best considering what it is used for mentioned by 86ford.

 

Sometimes the forum does not show me when a new post has been made but anyway thanks for the response, I am not their yet just thinking ahead and alot of good info on this thread

 

When you are finished here, do you log out of FTE before closing your browser/shutting down the computer?

 

No I never have, I have always liked not having to log in and too be honest would not know my password anyway at this point

This problem in sporadic, on most occasions the thread is brought right back up-front and I see it highlighted

 

I usually log out when I'm finished here and can't say I remember running across this phenomena....

You should be able to get your password from your computer if it's remembering it for you.