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Help with interior door pannel install

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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 09:25 PM
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Help with interior door pannel install

Hey guys I am having problems with glueing the vinyl to the Rod Door door panels that i have. We originally did this a few years ago but it didn't hold up. I am trying to redo them but I am getting the same result. The vinyl does not want to stick to the panels. I am using some 3M glue made for gluing vinyl tops on, but it does not work very good. Also there are grooves on the door panels and I am having a very hard time getting the vinyl down into these grooves. PLEASE HELP! getting very frustrated.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 10:09 PM
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Hi, I have not done this yet but I’m going to be, so I have an interest in your problem.

I’m no expert for sure........ but pretty good with the questions!

The glue your are using is for vinyl to metal I wonder if you need a vinyl to plastic type. Maybe the vinyl material is for flat panels and is too thick to stretch the way you would like it to, a thinner fabric cloth type would work better. I would talk to fabric makers and adhesive people that supply upholstery shops for suggestions.

Just the ramblin’s of an old fool (confirmed).
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 12:24 AM
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Very few glues will stick to glossy ABS and even fewer to Nylon.

Try wiping your panels with a quick swip of lacquer thinner first to prime/melt the surface. I use the 3m Super Spray Adhesive after that and it works pretty good.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 02:12 AM
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There are two types of vinyl upholstery fabric, backed and unbacked. The backed has a course weave fabric on the back side, the unbacked does not. The backing is to reduce stretching like on seat covers so it does not become baggy from sitting on it. To follow and stay in an impressed design like on some Rod door panels, you need that stretch so you need the unbacked version. You also need the proper adhesive and application technique. 3M makes an upholstery adhesive specifically for this work in spray cans or bulk quantities for your own spray equipment. It is a contact adhesive so you apply it (generously to both surfaces) and let it dry according to directions on the can. Cover all but a small portion of the backer panel with at least 4 seperate overlapping pieces of plastic coated butcher paper so the fabric doesn't stick before you want it to. Start in the center or area with most design and lay the oversized fabric material over panel, working it down into the design using tongue depressor sticks and /or plastic putty knives that you have sanded off the corners and rounded all the edges. A rubber/plastic squeegie that is for smoothing vinyl graphics from your local sign shop also works well. You want to work the fabric into the design without stretching any more than absolutely necessary. Keep pulling the butcher paper pieces back in small increments working from the design areas towards the smooth areas and work the fabric into place as you go, pulling only enough to be able to press out any wrinkles until the panel is completely covered. trim the fabric all around ~ 3" oversize, narrower at the corners. Spray the back of the panel and fabrick and start turning the edges by beginning in the center and working towards the corners. Cut slits and pie cuts as necessary to allow turned edge to lay flat, keeping all cuts ending no closer than 1/*" from the edge of the panel so you get a smooth finish all along the edge. You can tighten small wrinkles with a hair drier, being careful not to overheat and melt the fabric. Cutt holes for handles etc in a star shape to within 1/8" of edge of hole and glue to rear of panel like the edges.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 08:58 PM
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sounds like a question for Truxx1956 i think he's the upholstery guy around here.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 09:37 PM
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All good advice so far, especially from AX. But, I prefer NOT to use any spray can adheasives at all. I've never personally had any sucess with any of it for anything like what youre doing. With that being said, the glue we use in the shop is used in a spray pot and is for vinyl tops, but is basically contact glue like you glue formica counter tops on with. Its pretty much the same stuff you can get at a Lowes or a home depot. I am not one to let it dry completly like the directions say either. I prefer to stick it kind of wet and also you want to use a heat gun or a hair dryer if you dont have a heat gun as AX has said. Also just as AX said if you have the wrong type backed vinyl, your spiting in the wind basicly cause certain types of vinyl wont take glue at all.

Also make dog gone sure you do all the gluin on a NO or low humidity day!!! Humidity is the enemy of glue!! If you have heat in your shop, crank it up, but beware of fumes and wear a mask. ( I usually dont and the wife fuss's at me)
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by rdemilt
sounds like a question for Truxx1956 i think he's the upholstery guy around here.
PM sent!
 

Last edited by Old F1; Mar 2, 2010 at 09:44 PM. Reason: Woops!....... please disregard PM, thanks.
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 10:54 PM
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Biggest novice mistake with contact adhesives be it upholstery or counter tops is not using enough. I like to put on two coats on both surfaces. If I am applying it to a non porous surface, I use a 4" roller and apply generously like painting a wall. I never use a foam roller tho as solvent based glues may dissolve the foam. I buy the cheapest roller and handle I can find and toss away after using rather than cleaning, it usually costs more to clean one than replace it.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 08:33 PM
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Ax,

I am at the point that I getting ready to purchase my vinyl for my seats, what I was planning to use has a backing on it. I was going to cover my Rod Door panels with the same vinyl because I wanted to do the whole interior in the same color, I assume this would not be wise to do this. Can you not use a stronger adhesive?

Charlie
 
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 10:43 PM
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If you are buying from a vehicle upholstery material supplier, rather than from a fabric store or remnant liquidator, they should be able to supply the same material in both backed and unbacked versions. Buy backed for the seats, and unbacked for panels with embossed designs or high relief such as arm rests or consoles. If you are covering flat panels, it doesn't matter if you use the backed version for all. The strength of the gloe doesn't really matter as long as it is strong enough to stick, if the fabric doesn't have give you will not be able to get the wrinkles out. Think of trying to wrap a softball without wrinkles with a sheet of paper vs with a nylon stocking.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 07:39 AM
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Ax, I see your point about covering the softball, my rod door panels do have some design on them, I am buying my material from a supplier so I will see if they have it in both backed and unbacked. Thank you, I appreciate your help.
Charlie
 
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