Hey all, I have been prowling around this site for several months trying to diagnose my truck. I finally decided it was time to post on here and ask for some help.
Here's what I have. 2000 F350 7.3 with 225,000 miles. Several months ago the check engine started coming off and on intermittently. Everything was running fine so I did not really worry about it. Shortly after that it started to have a rough idle. I thought I had it narrowed down to the UVCH so I did the .50 mod. Didnt change much after doing the mod to one side and replacing the harness on the drivers side (felt loose even after doing the mod).
Now when I fire it up it idles smooth with the CEL on but after 30-45 seconds the light goes off and the idle gets real rough and truck dies. I can eventually get it started and stay running but takes a few cycles. After further reading I decided to unplug the ICP sensor and this made the truck idle way better and smooth. I also have oil on the sensor. Should I go ahead and replace the ICP? I have been driving with it unplugged for a week or so while waiting to borrow an ICP from a friends truck but he has been unavailable. Withthe sensor unplugged I definitely feel like it is lacking in power.
I did have the codes pulled at a shop and came back with P1280 as well as a few codes for injectors.
Thanks in advance for any help.

 

If unplugging the ICP makes it run better and you have oil in the connector you definately need to replace the sensor. If you could post your other codes (keep in mind that cheapie vatozone scanners won't read your truck) that would be helpful also. If you can afford it, invest in AutoE with the advanced ford package. This diagnostic tool will pay for itslef in a couple of uses. When the truck dies and will not start again do you get a reading on the tach? If you have not already, you may want to consider changing out the CPS as it is a fairly cheap part that is known to fail. Others will chime in soon.

 

definitely sounds like your ICP. it is an easy swap. change it, clear the codes, and see what she does.

 

All signs point to the ICP being bad. Check out Riffraff, he has them for around $130. Best price I've seen.

http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/mm5/me..._Code=F731-OEM

 

Yep, replace the ICP sensor and go from there.

 

you can get one for less than $50 off fleabay. do a search for ICP102


that is the aftermarket equivalent.

 

Yes but they die quickly. OEM is the way to go.

 

Spend the few extra bucks and get the right one from one of our sponsors. Some on Ebay have the wrong threads even though you get them cheap.
Unplugging the sensor forces a default setting of approx. 750 psi +/- and works fine unless you are doing some serious towing.
I did a round-robin trip from East TN to Houston to Dallas and back with mine disconnected last year and all was fine.

 

It's wrong to say that just because a few have had that experience. The ICP102 is the after market one you will find at any of the local auto parts stores i.e. oh-rye-lees. It is a direct replacement.

The people that had to use adapters got the icp for the 94-97 7.3l. Some unscrupulous sellers will pull these kind of shenanigans.

 

OK, so I put in a new ICP sensor today and it definitely fixed the CEL. And the rough idle is gone as well. Thanks for the vote of confidence in replacing that.
However I still have some sluggish power when accelerating. It sounds like there is a "shudder" type noise when I accelerate. Not sure exactly how to explain the sound but just doesn't quite sound right. Any thoughts? Cleaning the EBP valve or the IPR? Would these cause sluggish acceleration?

 

It's not just a few bad apples. And if your supporting evidence is that it's the same used in auto parts stores I have some bad news for you.

I'm aware it's the same one sold at Autozone for $150 but that doesn't make it good.

 

Is the shudder there throughout all acceleration, or is it at one powersetting... meaning you can step on it and power through the shudder? You just played with the oil system, you might have introduced air. Drive it at least 50 miles before you get concerned.

 

The shudder is there during acceleration and doesn't really go away. Not sure exactly how to describe it but it sounds like a whirring or almost like as if I had a hole in the exhaust pipe. The sound gets more pronounced as I accelerate and it definitely has never been there before. I will drive it some today and tomorrow and see if it goes away.

 

Maybe you're hearing the turbo for the first time in a while. I really think you have air in your oil and it will take about 50 miles to clear it up.

 

Thanks tugly. I will keep on eye on that today as I drive around. Would a faulty MAP sensor cause this? I dont have a check engine light at all.